20 Most Recent 2001 Audi A6 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Yes, It sounds like they did not reset the maintenance reminder. refer to your owners manual for instructions on how to do so...
Chevy forgets to do that to mine just about every time!!!

Remove the transmission oil filter and you can add the oil through there using a long funnel or funnel that has a plastic tube long enough to reach. Add the oil slowly to keep from overflowing and make sure you add the exact amount that you removed.

So whats the question?

P1131 Bank2-Sensor1 Internal Rsistance too High P1626 Data-Bus Powertrain Missing Message from Transm.Contr. Think one of your O2 sensors isnt connected or the wires are damaged in some way

bank two sensor one heater circuit problem or bad snsor

P0706 Audi - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range Performance sits on the side of the transmission it will need to be replaced

cyl 4 misfire. replace all spark plugs if the problem comes back then it could be a coil pack or icm on top the air box.

check all plugs and check to see if there oil in any of the cylinders if your valve covers have not been replaced there could be oil in there and ruin the plug first try changing all plugs i recommend ngk's plat or iridium if it returns you need find witch cyl or if its 3 or more couls be coil packs or icms located on top of the air box if you have 2.7T owner of Audi A6 2.7T 2001.

audi code 16688 - cyl 4 misfire check spark plugs and coil packs and icms also if your valve covers have not been replace there could be oil in the cyl and made the spark plug go bad cyl4 is on the driver side first plug in front of the engine.same goes for 2.7T or 3.0

starter motor may need new brushes or replacement. there are ways to test it. check out youtube vids should be something on starter motor testing.

Hello. Can be alot of causes. Most common: Egr clap closed - doesn t allow air intake - car also blows black smoke while cranking. Fuel intake - low pressure fuel pump - located inside the fuel tank - may be burnt - high pressure fuel pump - engine bay - also may be burnt - not enough fuel inside the tank - fuel leaks before reaching injectors etc Hope it helps

My first response is NO.. I am guessing that your motor isnt running at all. It would help to have more details.. engine size? error codes? actual symptoms noticed? any work done? last oil change? your personal mechanical talents rated from 1 - 10?... ok.. best guess from little info. I am guesing from my experiences that your motor has a timing issue. whether you have a inline 4, V 6 or V8.. you have one,two or two timing chain tensioners inside your motor each chain tensioner keeps the intake and exhaust manifolds tuned to each other. the timing belt keeps the crank shaft and the pulley for the intake/ exhaust valve combo in tune with the crank and values. Its more likely you have jumped a timing belt and de timed your entire engine in order to get the multiple error codes required to flag all cyclinders as misfires.. More likely than.. the other scenario. of having the plastic feet fail on one or both of the chain tensioners in order to detune the timing father than the electrical components can adjust the spark and gas injections to keep the car running. So, the simple responce as a summary.. the vehicle likely has a jumped timing belt or potentially failed valve timing chain tensioner "feet". Both jobs mentioned above are likely to cost a lot of money. If you are a DIY (do it yourself) mechanic then you will want to search google for the 2 or 3 well known Audi forums. Audizine, audiforums and audiWorld. Best of luck, D_Dizzle

when does this 'CLUNK' happen ? on braking ,start up , will need a bit more info to be able to help

My first instinct is to tell you those symptoms are BIG in nature and spell DOOM.. however if you are a glass half full person and dont mind trying a few things.. you have options.. IF YOU CAN turn a wrench and think.. you can get it DONE, : ) yes... are you mechanical? you can start by changing the tranny filter and fluids ( twice).. once drive it 1500 miles on the first cycle at most and new filter and fluid again... ( I did a ton of reading to get to this.. I no longer use the audo tranny fluid at 24 bucks a quart.) I now use the MOBILE ONE ATF synthetic (equivalent to the audo expected quality) 7 bucks a quart. I am on the second vehicle to take it and in both cases i didnt like how the tranny shifted and when two fluid cycles and new filters were passed through each.. I am happy with the results and still driving my 2001 A6 4.2.. Happy Happy happy. FYI.. if you are not a fixer.. and you have to take it in.. "THEY" will not have interest in the games we play in the shade of the summer mechanic trees.. lol You will be expected to pay for a rebuilt tranny and labor. sorry. Although.. its likely by the time your tranny starts slipping and we humans notice it.. its likely damaged. I have read some people having a pressure regulator solenoid that is not getting electrical connection and the code makes then think its a solenoid failure.. ( consider cleaning the transmission wire connections and wiggle some wires down there.) if you have a code that points to that... then do the wiggling etc. TAKE NOTE: alternate story line.. There is a chance the symptoms you are describing at related to the car going into LIMP mode.. if so find what the engine error codes mean and fix / reset those first.

no need to change the starter unless its giving trouble but by all means change the water pump as its a better job in the long run

Most Audi's over heat for one reason. Bad cooling processes and equipment. what does that mean? Audi Cooling system. Is under pressure... if hoses (heater core) are plugged or the thermostat fails or its a hot day and the cool fans arent running you are likely to experience the dreaded AUDI VW cooling issues. First things First. Check the coolant and OIL level. any white sludgey stuff in the oil (popped head gasket) low oil.. could be over heating your engine. Freezing cold day when it is over heating.. frozen coolant Thermostat issues are hard to determine and So cheap to rectify... ask yourself this? when was it changed last if not in the last 60 K and you are having an issue. REPLACE IT.. Now you can trust it again. Over heating issues after replacing a thermostat or having a low coolant issues and you have filled it again.. its likely you have the double dreaded AUDI AIR BUBBLE. I have worked out a few by letting the engine warm up and cool down repeatedly 6 - 10 times.. By WARM up I dont mean over heat and destroy. Ever time it heated to normal operating temp the thermostat opened and moved some air around the loop. when the system cooled i added a little more audi coolant to the tank and repeated the process eventually the bubles come out enough to drive. be smart take it to teh end of the drive and back and check the temp, oil and coolant. park it.. let it cool next drive take it down the drive, to the end of the neighbors drive and back.. re check the temp, oil and coolant.. see the pattern? DO IT. lol It works for me.. Be patient. double check yourself before driving. Double check it again.. like you need to start the task from the finish.. you will be surprised the things you find you missed. : ) Cheers and good luck.

the blinking action is provided by the 'flasher relay' which usually will be located in the fuse box , the lid/cover will list the components , the fuse box's are underdash driver side and in the engine compartment