20 Most Recent 1997 Jeep Wrangler - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I just replaced water pump on my 97 wrangler, 4 cyl- without AC. Engines with AC are a little different. Since I don't have one, I can't saw how to change the belt--- but here it is for the 4 cylinder 1997 without AC.


So I had the belt off, and last thing was to put it back.

A. If you are unsure about memorizing the belt path, make your own drawing. If you are absolutely sure you can memorize the belt path---- make a drawing. Just some circles for each pulley.

Removing belt. Key mechanical location: The tensioning idler pulley. This adjustable tensioning pulley is on the right, below the power steering pump. It can be moved on a diagonal to tension the belt. The key to moving it is you must loosen the idler pulley mounting screw about two turns.

Locate the idler pulley. There is a hex head screw in the center. Use a 15 mm combination wrench to loosen this. Turn counter clockwise two turns.

Now, locate the tension adjusting screw. Look at about 10 oclock position above the idler pulley you just loosened, near the thermostat housing. There is a hex head that runs a long screw diagonally behind the plate. There is a block mounted to this screw that holds the idler. So turning this screw changes the tension.

Using a 15 mm wrench, turn this screw counter-clockwise to loosen the tension on the belt. A socket and ratchet drive will help. You will need a universal or a 3 in' "wobble" extension, because the thermostat housing and temperature sender are in the line of the hex head screw drive.

Good word: This rod is likely to be rusty and VERY stiff. Do not keep turning this if it is getting stiffer and stiffer. That means rust is jamming up the threads. Lubricate the block area on the back of the plate, directly behind the idler pulley, and work the tensioning screw backwards and forwards to get the threads cleaned up. If you have time, (probably an hour extra) you may wish to back the rod right out and remove it for wire brushing, and then re-install with marine grade anti-corrosion grease. I did this five years ago and it still is always moving freely.

Once tension is off, remove the belt.

Thread up the new belt. Expect to have to loosen the idler even MORE, because this new belt is not stretched at all.

Bring tension back up with the tensioner screw. Use your thumb to press on the belt on one of the long spans. Under moderate pressure it should move about 1/4 inch.

Tighten the pulley center screw to about 13 to 15 foot/lbs. If you do not have torque wrench, just make sure you don't use any more force than you can put on the wrench using only your "pinkie" finger. This is usually safe to prevent over-tightening anything on the outside of the engine.

I borrowed this quote from JeffsJeep at the wranglerforum.com.

A look at the FSM for the 97 shows:
BELT TENSION SPECIAL TOOLS BELT I SPECIFICATION
NEW SERPENTINE 800-900 N BELT (180-200 lbs. force) *
USED SERPENTINE 623-712 N BELT (140-160 lbs. force)

So if you have a tension measuring tool, then you can check it. If not, I suggest being conservative with tension. If it slips when wet, you can snug it up then. If you make the belt too tight, it wears out the water pump bearings.

jp

why ask us. why not just look on the jeep OEM parts pages... its all there to see, as is the FSM book for jeeps. posted over 100 times here, ( ever do searches?) http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/productSearch.aspx?&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15533&ukey_trimlevel=0&ukey_modelRange=0&modelYear=1997&ukey_category=0&ukey_driveline=0&isOnSale=0&searchTerm= answer the questions i cant and go to brakes, the free FSM , is missing the brakes chapter, sadly but not the real FSM. https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/FacetSearchResults.aspx?make=Jeep&year=1997&model=Wrangler&engine=4.0L+Straight+6+Cylinder+Engine&producttype=Service+Manuals&ptCatId=3083 there are discounted FSM books on EBAY best is to buy the FSM and have it handing before you need it. boy scout like...."ever ready"

Badidle could be a vacuum leak egr valve stuck on idle air conttol

vacum leak on manifold or idle control stuck,you may need to read ECU codes with a scan tool

check fuel filter and injectors may need cleaning

Your alternator is regulated by the PCM. It could be the PCM or the ignition switch. Might want to try swapping out the shutdown relay just for grins before getting into the ignition switch. Good luck.

your forward clutch is slipping, it wont do that for long before you cant move at all, change your fluid and filter, and add lucas to the trans when you do, if you still have a problem, its over, you need it rebuilt

its not a FORD, why would you thing a jeep is a ford? is stock car , USA stock car (we are USA forum, ) then this book cover all that. its called the FSm. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service ever wire, every bit, why assume it has an inertial switch. ? here is the truth.

1. check all fuses first, (using a meter, no guessing)
2. check fuel pressure, ah 0psi cranking,
3. Check engine light must glow key or PCM is dead. (fuses)
4. I check voltage at fuel pump relay output, its 0v cranking
5. bad relay or PCM sees no spark.
6. got 12v there, but not at pump cranking, bad wire .connector on way to pump.
7. if 12vdc at actual pump and dead pump that is a bad pump. (0psi pressure)

same as all cars. ever youtube that and see like 10,000 posts? posted 100 times here, more...

1. remove battery neg lug. (or boom)
2. remove all wires from starter.
3. unbolt starter
4. it falls in to hands.

ill not post how to put it back,

lots of reasons, old post. fuses (2) blown makes whole cluster dead is it all dead?

so you have a DTC error (my other shoe drops?) why not put US in context. what's up doc? i can just say , unscrew it and take it out. but is that not obvious? 2wd or 4wd transmissions used. (usa) 32RH trans A/T AW4 trans? a/t? or ax15, m/t and down this list.? ax4? ax5? what is failing, ? we can start there, or do a easter egg hunt. speedo dead. cruise dead A/T box shifting oddly? scan tool shows DTC errors ???? (it will if it this is bad) The VSS sensor for speed veh, is at the tail of the transmission. it measures tail shaft , main drive shaft speed, to do vehicle speeds. there are many speed sensor on cars. some are used as a backup when one fails. tell more get more.

TJ jeep which engine, must we guess that? usa car or export? what makes you think it has one? 2.5L and 4.0L dont , they are gear drive. the engine is here, look at TJ engine, page pdf 72 , see? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service never ask a rice burner owner, how to fix a jeep????? LOL !!

trace the cause of a lamp fail 97 wrangler. fuse blow for shorts, (preventing the fire) so, there are only 3 ways to find shorts,

1. visual inspection ever inch of shorted wire, (luck happens)
2. pull all loads off the wire feed, is short not gone (BINGO?>)
3. use an AMMETER, this is what we use, to get them all.

one nice way to find shorts,(not wanting to blow 100 fuses) is to remove the blown fuse ATC and put in a Circuit breaker ATC fuse in that place, not it trips , cools off and repeat the trip this allows for fast testing (meter) and pulling loads, checks. your car is jeep TJ and the wiring is free here. the schematic tells you all things that can short to this node. click wiring, http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service Tail/park shorts, (lots of loads, the highest of all wires it is) answers USA only not export and no DRL light option. we are tracing the complex path called PARK (tails) see chapter 8W that be IT. and page. pdf page # 8w-40-7 (pdf #93) turn the dash dimmer to lowest, still blow fuse. no, then the short is not in cab (easy huh?) so parks are shorted, see 8W-50 (pdf 134) see park there/ see those fues # which one blew, that is a big CLUE. my guess is fuse 1, (others are head lights) F1 blows main HL switch park pin 9 ,black yellow wire feed. see that? see 8w-50-4 then page 5 , see all rear parks. then see page 8w 70-20 for fogs. there you go... i cant teach you how to use and ammeter. so google that. see all those junction C connectors, all can be pulled to isolate that short. see connector C110 , pulling that isolates front parks conn C322 , pulling that isolates tail parks. as you see park feed is hug (simple) but huge, lots of places to short and big time short if trailer wiring hacks are on car. look first.

Replace the rear traction arm/s.

You had best check that the bolts are tight.

Did you check fuel filter? Its a wealth of info what's going on in your fuel system. This may sound strange but how strong is the battery? How old is it and starter? I'm going to assume you checked a spark plug? Got new plug wires, distributor cap,etc? Are injectors on rail? Clean their jets. There's a mechanical part that probably is fine but the fuel regulator is on end of fuel rail and part of the whole deal. Also make sure the relay for starter, fuel pump, etc is 'clicking' right. And don't forget that lovely carburetor. Air/gas mixture is imp. and grunge in carb is a deterent.

nice double post, and is a statement this time. no question formed. backup one,and see answer and full fsm book, to read. or download if you know how.

front or rear, yes, rear is an option (8w-53 fsm page) USA or export model? i guess front USA. there can be 1 or 2 boxes, depends on years. the operators guide, has this,, get one? and the fsm, and haynes, rags, etc. and can be found with google and alldata.com here is the free fsm , you can find all you need here. posted 100s of times now , on all jeeps. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1049-2008-grand-vitara-service-manual.aspx a full chapter just on wipes. and all wiring. and sure fuses page 8w-53 shows fuse #14 runs front wiper motor. ' page 8w-10-3 shows the box. top left 20,19,18,17 16,15,14 (bingo here) 1 row down 3 over buy an operators guide, or use my link and just look it up-. same answer for all cars made. its in the glove box, that guide.

It would if there are 2 belts or more present. If it's a one belt setup it has one tensioner. Are you having trouble replacing a belt. Most auto parts stores will print you a belt diagram free of charge. Hope this helps. Chris

no FIRE? you mean the coil HV terminal is dead? (Fire is in the cylinders and never at a coil) its called SPARK, or HV. high voltage. ALL: answers , USA and generic, until engine stated. and nobody fooled with dizzy timing. which engine, we can not guess that, nor fix or help on NO ENGINE. my guess is its the 4.0L (1 of 5 million) right? i guess you are trying to fix a USA car, with no OBD2 $9 scan tool> really? why do that.? if you had the tool, and cranked for 5 seconds the tool would show you why there is no spark. lets do jeep spark 101.. 1993 to NOW the first steps are:

1. fuses good?
2. CEL lamp glow key on? if not fuses blown. or worse.
3. i connect my scan tool and it communicates good if not , fuse bad.
4. I crank the engine and the ASD relay closes, but drops in 3 seconds, (i crank for 5 seconds,) release the key and low and behold this cheap tool shows me DTC error for why.
5. did the ASD drop out during the cranking session?
6. yes then read why here.
7. http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html
8. if the ASD holds, and there are no DTCs shown, then we now check for spark, at all cylinders. 4 or 6 as the case may be.
9. got spark on all? no. they are all dead. so i check for spark at the coil HV terminal. it's DEAD.
10. I check the primary side of coil, the coil is dead open , infinity ohms.
11. I want you to know if the CKP or CMP or coil primary is bad
12. the ECU will in fact throw a code (DTC ) for even one pulse in 10 missing. that is a fact. ECU secrets.

read the spark page, ignition. here. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service and the schematics at the end. the coil primary is about 2 OHms (never infinity ohms) the secondary is about 15,000 (15K) ohms, not zero not infinity lets now do coil checks (primary side) NO DTC ERRORS right? ohms passes Homes. (lol) chapter 8w-30-14 look here. PDF page 70 a volt meter in hand. the black (tiny) coil wire is at 12vdc key on for 3 seconds if not 12v ever, the ASD is dead. you never said it pulls in. if 12dvc is here for 3 seconds. then the ASD is working and the PCM is dropping the ASD on PURPOSE, (use the scan tool) ok i check the other coil wire, and it pulses, at 12v 0v and 12vdc, the 0v is very fast. seeing it pulse takes (major shop tools called a scope) wire color is GY, (gray?) or green with yell stripe. but the ECU will in fact warn you if the GY wire is dead. so we are back to square one, no scan tool for $9 the ELM327 tool is that expensive. cmp sensor is in dizzy base CKP is the crank sensor on flywheel left side. at bell. the ECU monitors the spark at the primary side. if that fails, it tells you if the ASD drops it tells you why, with DTCs. learn to use a dirty cheap scan tool, for this car its dirty cheap. i use a 3160 at home because it works on all cars. old and new. best investment but i have 10 scan tools from 95 to now. http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=Innova%203160&adid=22222222220202571388&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=21616676807&wl4=&veh=sem or this in a pinch. a blue tooth tool. for NOTHING http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ELM327-V1-5-OBD2-II-Bluetooth-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner-Tool-/300870978320?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460d4ecb10 good luck. PS do tell what the ASD does, using 2 persons..... it takes 2. on all jeeps. one guy said on his jeep he can feel it close as he cranks