20 Most Recent 1998 Subaru Forester Questions & Answers

This explained in the owner's manual, but very poorly. I have asked all sorts of "Experts" from Subaru techs to forum posters, and received a half-dozen different answers.As far as I have been able to determine, operating the "Hold" switch does a couple of things. It is only relevant in "Auto", and not "Sportshift". It starts off in second gear, rather than first. It will hold the car from rolling back on a moderate upgrade.It "seems" to me to "smooth out" the gearshifts.All of this, as far as I can understand, is to avoid sudden changes to traction in snowy / icy / wet conditions. Starting off in first, for example, would cause instant slippage, starting in second is less likely to. Engaging forward gear while rolling backwards, likewise.I am not an expert, nor a mechanic. These are only my observations, and "sifted" knowledge from many different sources...

Changed battery now running lights flash 2000 Forester Quick fix on mine use remote key fob lock door then unlock everything good no more flashing.

Your mechanic did not adjust the new master cylinder actuator shaft for the correct pedal free- play of about 3-4mm. This shaft can vary in length (normal manufacturing tolerances) which is why there is an adjustment. This is a simple job that takes about 10 minutes. Move the driver's seat backwards, remove the the lower dash panel to access the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder may need rebleeding as well.

Sound like the auto transmission fluid cooler.

Any chance of a head gasket leak? Is the coolant level still full? These were known for head gasket issues. Coolant is a closed system and level will not drop unless there is a leak. Make sure there is no air in the system. Replace the radiator cap to make sure that it is operating properly.

I have a 97 subaru outback and encountered the same problem. It is a security device on all newer subaru's. After changing or charging the battery, leave the negetive battery cable disconnected. Turn the key to the "on" position, then reconnect the negative terminal. This will stop the flashing.

Check the cap and rotor for internal carbon tracking or, just change them. Also, take a look at the coil when its dark and rainy and see if there is any arcing where the coil wire goes into it.

under and left of steering column. its a module for turn/hazzard

The symptoms all indicate a dirty (oily grime) build up in the throttle body interior. You will be pleased to learn the 'fix' should be quick and low cost.Disconnect the air ducting between the air cleaner/filter housing and the throttle body. Spray WD40 or Carb choke cleaner into the throttle body interior and the throttle plate. Rub and wipe away the grime. Keep doing this until the interior looks like new. Turn the throttle Plate by applying pressure the the top half with your fingers. Clean as much as you can beyond it. Locate your idle air control (IAC) valve ( on or near the throttle body) and associated air passages to and from it. Clean these, if necessary dismount the IAC valve and soak the valve until free of all dirt. Reassemble everything and reinstate the ducting and you are done!

it could be something simple or even dangerous. I would look at tire to see if it is wearing uneven, jack it up and see if wheel is tight on hub. Look at lug nuts and see if tight. No joy? Unless you know how and have proper tools for front end repair take to shop

check the timing belt and the timing.check thermostat is installed correctly, do not trust the guy that fixed the other problems. there is no such thing as an [internal leak?] go to another guy.lol.

You should read 14,7 volt on the battery when motor is running. If not, probably your battery can not accumulate enough power. Take it to a battery shop and ask them to check the battery with a resistance load. That will diagnose if battery is ok or not. How old is the battery?

It may need a good charging rather than a jump. You can take the battery in to autozone and they will run a test and you can leave it with them to charge it.

did you drop the pan to change the filter? if you drained the fluid and you can get the stick into the tube all the way. i would say the tube is not clogged. you should know how much you took out and the trany only holds so much. check the manual for the correct type and amount. if the fluid is over full that is a problem and will need to remove some. when i add fluid i put in a couple quarts and start the car and cycle the fluid only a couple seconds 15 to 30 not mins or hours the turn off add another till i think its close to what i took out. start car cycle some more repeat till you think your close within a quart to being full. at that point you can keep the car ruuning and check the fluid and keep checking the mark on the stick. if it wont go down the tube. you may have something blocking the tube and removing the pan again or tube to see whats blocking the tube is your only option.

Getting all the air out is actually quite simple. Fit the thermostat. Make absolutely sure you know which way it goes in: ask the dealer if you are unclear. Put it in backwards and it does not work properly. Fill the radiator, and start the engine and let it idle. In about 5 minutes, the thermostat will open and the coolant level will go down. Stop the engine, fit the cap and top up the coolant. Now, squeeze the top hose, say, 10 times: you'll hear the coolant gurgle a bit. Remove the cap and top up the coolant. Start the engine and repeat. Eventually the gurgling will stop and all the air is out of the engine. Usually takes 2 or 3 iterations. Do the final top up and take it for a run.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS start your diagnosis by getting the trouble codes read. Period.

I had a 2000 with leaking fuel lines. There are a few molded rubber lines. Check the condition of the rubber and the hose clamps. If they are wet, you have a leak. When replacing use the good clamps that you can tighten with a nut driver