20 Most Recent 2002 Volvo S80 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.
Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.
Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.
Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.
Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

The fan module is at fault. Replacing it will eliminate this problem

the clicking noise if from a loose connection or a faulty starter solenoid or a weak battery

I got the same message today. I replaced the position bulb. Problem solved.

it could be the cam sensor try that first before spending money on that in a shop

You probably need a new battery, have alternator and battery checked.

The next service due according to Volvo is at135,000 miles. I would recommend oil changes in between service intervals with vehicles over 100,000 miles.

Check your fanbelts. they're probably broken and/or missing.

UNDER THE REAR SUSPENSION

you need a scantool. however, the light for air bag problems will not turn off unless the problem has actually been corrected.

are you getting any messages coming up

take to tranmission shop
no diy cure

thermostat

could be transmission radiator, don't drive it or will ruin gearbox.
take to gearbox specialist, not diy job

See picture below:
Volvo S80 2.9 liters (2002), B6294S2 engine code, camshaft drive:


If you need a bigger picture I will send you by e-mail, because the www.fixya.com site has only 150 kb limited traffic!

The booster uses vacumn to assist your foot pressure. A leaky seal or diaphragm in the booster or a bad hose from the engine to the booster will cause the pedal to drop as it loses power assist. I think the brake light switch is mounted under the dash by the brake pedal. Fix the booster now, it may save your life.

It helps to pump out the fuel in the tank if possible, to lighten the load. You'll need to remove the fuel tank from under the car & lower it to the ground and get it into position to work on. Care must be exercised so as not to crimp any lines & to keep any sparks/flames away. An empty tank will explode more easily than a full tank will. The Fuel Pump with the float & any sensors & a fuel sock/filter is the assembly & all are removed in one unit, from the top of the tank by loosening the assembly, the hoses, and disconnecting the plug in.

Once removed, if you are replacing the entire assembly, you may want to check the inside of the tank for debris that you can remove at this point, then reinsert the new assembly as a unit into the exact position it was mounted before. Note the float position as it can't be crimped/jammed or you will have no fuel gauge. (digital camera option-take pictures to review later before & during removal) Once you've got it back into the car & added the fuel back in, or if it has enough still in it, you'll need to prime the fuel system by turning your ignition off & on for a few seconds at a time. You'll hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key to on, leave the key there until you hear the pump stop & wait a few seconds, repeat. This will fill up the fuel system. You may want to take the time to get you a new fuel filter, if you do & replace it, fill it 1/3 full before installing with fuel injector cleaner and you'll give your injectors a good cleaning. Might sputter just a few seconds-no more. good luck.

You don't. It is a compact unit sold as whole.

engine is telling you that either the temp sensor is dirty or the thermostat is going bad.