Top 10 2005 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

I have a 2005 accord, and this worked for me.

1)Turn on engine w/ radio off. Push and hold down buttons 1, 6, and power.
2)I got the letter "U" followed by 4 numbers and then letter "L" followed by 4 numbers; write down those numbers.
3) Go to Honda.com
4)Click on Owners home link.
5)On that page you should see an option for retrieving radio codes for honda/acura
6)you will need to enter Vin#, home phone number and zip code fo the original owner. This will then give you the radio code..

hi
Honda vehicles may often cause intermittent no-start conditions, especially when the weather gets hot. But the trouble really starts when another component fails, like an ignition coil or an igniter.
Before we diagnose a no-start, let's look at how Honda's main relay works. The relay is a dual relay, that is to say that it is two relays in one. The first relay powers up the computer and supplies power for the second relay. Once the computer is powered up, it will ground the second relay, which supplies power to the fuel pump. There are three conditions that will cause the computer to activate the fuel-pump half of the main relay:
When the key is turned on, the computer will run the fuel pump for two seconds.
When the starter is engaged.
When there is a tach signal to the computer.
Now let's diagnose our no-start. Before I do anything else, I check for a computer reference voltage. This can be done on any input sensor. An easy one to get to is the Throttle Position Sensor. If I have 5 volts there, then I know the computer has power and ground. If the computer isn't powered up, don't even think about trying to trace out fuel or spark problems. There won't be any spark or fuel until the computer has power and ground. Most no-starts are caused by little or no fuel, little or no spark, low compression or spark at the wrong time. These are all easy things to find if a component has failed, but it can be real hard to find a problem that fails intermittently.
Intermittent starting problems are usually spark or fuel. Low compression doesn't come and go. If you had low compression yesterday, you'll have it today. To check for spark and fuel you will need a fuel pressure gauge, a voltmeter and a spark tester. When the engine doesn't start, you want to be able to check the igniter, the coil, the injectors and the fuel pump.
Hook up your fuel pressure gauge. There are two places to hook up a fuel pressure gauge on a Honda. One is on the fuel rail and the other is on one of the bolts on the fuel filter. After you have connected the fuel pressure gauge, start the engine and make sure that there are no leaks. You don't want any leaks while you are testing for spark. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the ground lead of one of the injectors. Connect the spark tester to one of the spark plug wires.
The most common time to have a no-start condition in a Honda is after a hot soak, like when you pull in for gas or a quick run into a store. The best way to duplicate this condition is to use a piece of wire to hold the throttle linkage and set the engine speed at 2,500 rpm. Let the engine run for about 20 minutes with the hood shut. Then remove the wire and turn the engine off. Let it sit for five to 10 minutes. Then try to restart the engine several times. If the engine doesn't start, turn the key on. The check engine light will come on for two seconds and go out. You should see the fuel pressure go up and hear the fuel pump run during the two seconds. When the light goes out you should hear the main relay click. If it doesn't click, check terminal seven on the main relay (fuel pump) for power and terminal eight (computer) for ground. If you have no power and you have ground, the main relay is bad.
If the main relay is bad on an Accord, you will lose fuel pressure. If it's bad on a Civic, you will lose power to the injectors and the fuel pump but you may not lose fuel pressure because the injectors can't open without power. When the main relay goes bad and there isn't any voltage at the injectors, it will set a code 16 for an injector because the computer doesn't read voltage on the groundside of the injector.
It's also possible that the car has more than one thing that is causing a hard start. You could also have a bad ignition switch, a bad igniter and a bad ignition coil.
If there isn't any spark, move your spark tester to the coil tower to rule out plug wires, cap or rotor. If you still don't have spark, you have a bad ignition coil.
To check the igniter itself, you will need a scope. The igniter terminal of the igniter will have a 10-volt reference voltage. The computer will ground this terminal when it receives a pulse from the permanent magnet sensor in the distributor. The ignition coil produces spark when the igniter releases ground from the negative terminal of the coil. By probing the igniter signal and coil negative you check the input and output of the igniter. If there is a good igniter signal and nothing at the negative side of the coil, the igniter is bad.
The main relay will give you the same symptoms as a bad coil or a bad igniter. A main relay usually only fails when the weather is really hot. You might have a hard start every now and then, but not enough to really cause you any concern, but when an igniter or a coil fails, the car won't start at all until it cools down and that will be a major concern.
NOTE If the car starts and continues to run, the main relay is okay.
Remove the main relay.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 4 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, the relay is OK; If the fuel pump still does not work, go to Harness Test.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.


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OR some simple method
check battery (load test) & connections at other end of battery cables for clean & tight.
OR
press the accelerator pedal half down and retry
starting.
If it now starts, try running some good injector cleaner through the car
for a couple of fill ups; It could be that an injector is leaking and floods
the engine periodically. Injector cleaner will most likely clear it up

OR
chek these sites
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2394043
http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17915

hope your prob will b solved,
do let me kno
all the best
regards

I talked to a dealer, all they could tell me is they have to send it to honda to fix it... a good 250$ for software fix...plus dealer will charge 50$ for each time they take the player out and in...

Look at both cylinder heads the one closes to the front of the motor is bank one, the location of sensor two will be the one after the Catalytic converter,Hope this was very helpful.

Tony, check the door to the nav unit in the trunk, when the door is open there should be a small plactic point on the door that fitds into a tiny hole on the nav unit, if this plastic point on the door is missing thats the problem, I had it happen to me. ken. [email protected] let me know what you found out, thanks

Hi,

The sunroof on your Honda may not be operating correctly. The most common problems with Honda's sunroofs is the track. This is especially true of early 1990s Honda vehicles. However, many Hondas use a recessed track that easily collects and traps dirt and debris. When this happens, your sunroof may not close and seal properly. Another minor problem is a blown fuse on some model years of Honda vehicles. Before fixing anything, however, troubleshoot the problem.

1. Open the fuse panel. Turn the knob on the fuse panel cover counterclockwise or push in on the release tabs on the fuse panel cover (depending on the year of your Honda), and pull down on the fuse panel cover.
2. Pull the fuse for the sunroof out of the fuse panel using the fuse pullers in the fuse panel. Use the diagram on the underside of the fuse panel cover if you are having trouble locating the fuse for the sunroof.
3. Check the metal strip in the middle of the fuse. The strip should not be burned or damaged. If it is, replace it with a fuse of the same amperage.
4. Check the recessed track of your sunroof. Clear away any debris that may be stuck in the sunroof's track. Use engine degreaser and a wire brush to clean the track of dirt. Then, wipe the track down with clean paper towels.
5. Apply hard grease to the sunroof wheels and track so that the sunroof can move easily once again.

The dealer has the problem that is prominent with this code you will have to referee to code P1457 they are plaque with this P0497 is evap slow leak P1457 is Evap slow leak it TSB 08-016

It appears to be a known issue!

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Honda+Accord+alarm+system+won%27t+turn+off

I would take it to a good vehicle electrician who has a good scan tool computer to test diagnostics on the whole electrical system.

If this is a V6 bank 2 sensor is the one before the catalytic converter in the bank of cylinders that contains cylinders 2,4 and 6.

As I understood,you had stiff brake pedal and the car on your attempt to start was not firing? and after 30 seconds it did? How the engine ran after the start? If I am correct stiffness on brake pedal,fault is either the check valve which is fitted inside the hose goes from the inlet manifold to the servo unit,stuck open and cause the engine have a vacuum leak . Or the servo unit itself stuck according to diaphragm move ability after the vacuum.If the brakes now are working as before and the engine as well,I suggest to remove the hose with the check valve inside test it and actually I recommend to renew it. It is for safety purpose,because this will happen even when you are in motion and God knows if you are in a speed and need sharp braking. Confirm first that it is the check valve or the Servo unit. Ask from an expert help.