20 Most Recent 2004 Audi A4 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

i would expect that the buttons on the remotes are a little worn and need to be pressed in just the right position for contact to be mase , if you open the remote fobs carefully reove the circuit board and you will see where the buttons press onto small switch's the under side of the buttons need building up with something , this bit is a bit hit and miss as it is only probaly a mm gap to fill so try slicing a piece of foam to about 1 mm and so it fits in the remote and refit the circuit board , put the cover back on and try buttons , as i say this can be a bit hit and miss but worth spending a couple of hours trying different flexible materials until the buttons work every time , good luck , keep me posted if you wish

You can get a new key made at your car dealer. You need to show your VIN number and proof of ownership.

If your car has keyholes to external the try this trick..obtain a tennis ball and cut a half inch circular hole into it...place the hole over the key hole of the drivers door..and punch or force the air out of the ball into the lock...you might need to try this several times...the compressed air can sometimes trip the central locking .....also try from the passenger door.

You'll have to pinpoint the exact pace that the oil is spraying out from the lines are cooling lines going to the front side of the radiator to a cooler, if you had your oil changed recently, you may check that they did not forget the seal from the old filter that stuck to the engine when the removed it,, that is common, but doesn't happen to a seasoned cautious mechanic

What reservoir?

if it's near the ac condenser, in front of the radiator, it may be for the ac oil compressor that's leaking out if it isn't clear, brown or reddish, it's either engine oil or transmission oil or even power steering

get under neath a look for signs of the oil dripping , get a good torch , when you find the dripping point then feel up from there until you get to an oil free spot , the leak will be between the oil free spot and where it drips of the engine , this is just a really rough guide as to what to do , take you time and be methodical

Agreed. The clutch disk is likely worn. The pressure plate is self adjusting so there is no adjustment available on stock Audi pressure plates or indeed in most pressure plates. Another possible cause is a leaking rear main engine seal that is allowing engine oil to seep and then be thrown around the bell housing and work its way onto the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. Test you clutch in 3-4 gear acceleration from a slow speed...if the engine speed flares faster than the car accelerates, you have a worn/bad clutch.

LOCK AND UNLOCK MANUALLY,WITHIN 5 SECS ENTER THE CAR AND TURN IGNITION ON,WAIT 3 SECS AND TURN IGNITION OFF. GO OUT,CLOSE DOOR AND PRESS THE LOCK BUTTON.U MIGHT HAVE TO PRESS MORE THAN ONCE.IF ALL OK THEN THE CAR WILL LOCK.REPEAT THE PROCEDURE FOR THE REST OF THE KEYS.LET ME KNOW IF U NEED MORE INFO..

COMMON MISTAKE PEOPLE MAKE JUST TO SAVE SOME MONEY!!5 UNITS I TRIED TO RESTORE AT WORK 4 OF THEM WORKED.TAKE THE CAR TO THE DEALER AND TELL THEM TO CHECK THE DRIVE FIRST. IF THE DRIVE IS OK ASK FOR A SYSTEM RESET.IF THAT DOES NOT WORK ASK THEM TO RESTORE THE UNIT USING ODIS . IF THEY KNOW THEIR JOB WELL THEY WILL BE ABLE TO DO IT.IF THEY DONT FIND ANOTHER DEALER...WHATEVER U DO DO NOT LET ANYONE BUT AUTHORIZED PERSONEL TO DEAL WITH THE UNIT ... IT IS NOT AN AFTER MARKET UNIT ..HERE COSTS 3.900 EUROS!!!

It is a device for regulating the passage of air through the crankcase and into the intake manifold, thereby ventilating the crankcase of combustion fumes that would otherwise contaminate the oil faster than normal. PVC stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation if not in that order, Audi probably means in the german sense of Positive Ventilation, Crankcase valve. It's often a 3-4" diameter puck-like device with one pipe underneath it.

Chances are something else is at work, like a boost leak or control system failure. Perhaps the clip on the boost control actuator arm fell off and the arm disconnected from the wastegate.

You need to repair the fault....usually caused by a defective suspension height sensor or headlight adjustment motor.

Hi where do I find a water jacket on my audi a4 1.9tdi b6 2002

replace shifting s.w and brake light s.w .try to apply brake many time

This depends greatly on the depth of the dent.If it is somewhere in the area of 1/8 inch deep you might be able to Bondo it and seal and paint it. But, if it is any deeper than this anything less than a bodyshop repair will look very noticable.This sounds more like a crease than a dent, and it cannot be popped out without a dent puller. Thanks, Dana

check the condition of the pump drive belt as the cold weather makes it more difficult to flex and if it is worn or loose it may be your problem

Hey there Cyber,

Classic symptoms, belt failure. Be glad you don't have a serpentine belt, the engine would have overheated too.

If you work close to home, it may even be a serpentine and just didn't have time to overheat.

At any rate: One of your belts powers both the Alternator and the Power Steering Pump. That belt is either very loose or laying on the road between your home and workplace.

The good news:
This is one of those lucky circumstances where the more that looks like its broken, the cheaper and easier it is to fix. If it was only the Alt. or P/S that would mean all sorts of diagnostics, tests, etc.

Both at once? The belt.
The cost? Less than $20.00 if serpentine. Less than $5.00 if not.

If the old one is still hanging there, it will be useful when getting a new one (to size it).

Let me know if you feel like replacing it yourself.
If it's a serpentine, click here for the procedure (the trick) to get it on.

Once the new belt is on the only thing you'll need is a jump.

Any additional questions? Just comment me back.

Thanks for using FixYa
Mike