1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

like all linkages made replace all worn, bad , or missing parts. just just a mech shifter, not any more. i can see an error above, the shaft has come out of its hole plate (top) usually due to collision or gross offroad activities. the parts are here. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/productSearch.aspx?&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15529&modelYear=1997&ukey_category=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&ukey_modelRange=0&isOnSale=0&searchTerm=

fuel filter is somewhat built into the pump and installed within the tank. Periodic replacement isn't necessary and I'm sure the filter itself and getting a mechanic to drop the tank will be very expensive. what did you do with a "tune up" ? gotta go retrace your work and make sure the plug gaps are correct etc. if a check engine light went on after your "tune up" then you need to find the trouble code with a scanner and that will help you in the direction you need to go. Free trouble code scan at my local autozone or advance auto parts or even aamco transmission shops

did you scan it yet, to see all those DTC errors from trannY?

parts can stick or jam or rust, or? what it is we cant guess, why not get help. you never stated with engine, so.....

its in the operators guide and the FSM book and on the lid did you read the lid yet? all fuses are labeled. the fsm is here. alldata.com

This is the Power Dist. Center

parked or moving both? ? why not post symptoms,??? and ask for real help not wild guesses.????????? real as in diagnostic? my guess is the HVAC system heater i dead? dead cold on all modes and the power works on HIGH? right? ill guess, heater cold on fast fan. here are the checks (I use a scan tool for ECT temp ) 1: first i touch the top rad hose is it too hot to hold hand there.? yes, that is 180F to 200F there. so is good, if not fix THAT First. 2: then step 2, heater core hoses, 2 hoses there hot same rules. yes, no? ill stop here,, but this is first. first is engine heat, changing thermostat if engine hot, is a waste of time. and cash. the engine heat can be seen 4 ways 1: dash gauge, at normal. (if don't know normal ,all this wasted) 2: IR pyro gun, check. best. a $15 tool. ends guessing . 3: scan tool ECT shows, 180F more, passes tests very good method here and is free if you have any scan tool. 4; hand flies off hose test. crude but effective, if not sure try on car that works, now you know where 180F is. "experience":

Under the frame

where is light exactly? in the cluster?

should b bolted

Replace the water pump. It should not move any direction. When you check as it is running, the pressure of the belt keeps it from wobbling.

one is lean fuel and the 2nd is rich fuel ,try clearing codes and see if they come back , it may be a fluke.

wont crank or cranks fast but will not start,???????? wow first thing replaced the most expensive part on car.? why ? replace PCM. ! wow ! what if used PCM (is it used) is bad,? if so now 2 problems, Compounding every thing,.....$$$$$$$$ last time it ran was 1 week ago , 1 year, what? miles on it? bad fuel in tank , old? why not elaborate that key symptom first.? there is a cluster there. gauges, warning lights. many, all must glow. lets do this dance, posted 100 times;. now.

1. head lights work not dim? key in pocket.
2. key on, not cranked ! (covered in missing oper. guide)
3. all warning lights glow, if not battery is weak or fuses blown.
4. and the CEL lamp there, it must glow or the PCM has no power ,that too, is a blown PCM fuse. fact. (or lamp dead)
5. lets say the lamp was dead,CEL the scan tools hows status of the lamp and all else, so use a $10 scan too now. does it communicate with the PCM and show all sensors and not DTC errors? scan it now, cant fix cars now , with no scan tool , buy one, and win on old cars. big time with pay back !!! heck all cars. 96+
6. so the CEL glows now, good, now you crank, now, does the crank shaft turn fast cranking, yes/no. yes !
7. then check for spark , got spark x 6?
8. got spark well test fuel works now , even with dry gas tank.
9. is the ASD relay closing and then dropping,? ( yes, and yes)
10. then that means the PCM cut fuel , on purpose !!!!
11. the scan tool tells you why. it did drop for sure. scan it.

1993 to now , MR. ASD 101 http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html PCM is the engine EFI brain, it runs all spark and all fuel all the time. it also dumps the ASD to stop engine fires, by law. confuses many, and all cars have this, one way or the other, all EFI cars.

a very serious problem and will get far worse get car fixed. do you want gue$$ing or do you what DIY testing, ill not guess. but it is serious. here:

1. get a rad leak down test done.
2. get the rad neck green/blue dye tester test done,
3. get a compression test, WOT, wide open throttle.

i car running 50% antifreeze at all times? Yes/no? if not and it freezes there, oops,, you killed it.

Motor is getting wore out, possibly? Valve sticking? Did you take a compression check or are you just guessing?

Brake pads are worn. That noise is the sound of the backing plate for the brake pads hitting the rotors. You will need to replace the pads and probablt the rotors. When the brakes go metal to metal like that it typically destroys the rotor.

child locks?? active? if not the lock is jammed. fix it , by finding cause of jam (rust) or replace parts that are dead or stuck.

change spark plugs

There should be NO brake lines that are plastic. What the plastic line may be for is fuel, fuel return or the Evap system.
And I have seen where those lines will devolpe a leak from a pin hole, crack, split, O-rings in the ends.

A manual transmission could also have a plastic line from the clutch master to the clutch slave. So if you have a manual and it was brake fluid you saw leaking from it that could be it as the Hydraulic clutches use brake fluid in the system.

you might have a bad wire harness from sensor to the computer. check the wires you might have a burned one or it is cracked. clear codes and try again.