20 Most Recent 1988 Subaru DL Questions & Answers

not a clutch at this point but a faulty clutch master cylinder or faulty cable replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder or the clutch cable Indicates that if hydraulic the compensating port in the m/cyl is nor allowing oil to return to engage the clutch or if cable , the cable is shredding and locking in the outer case causing the same result

Will it rev up in neutral? Kinda sounds like your spark advance isn't working as it has fuel and spark and runs, albeit not well. It would be helpful if you included mileage on the car and a description of the conditions when this started to occur.

es it is,,, please contact subaru official webstore

please check engine must have been seized

When you have a Diagnostic light, take the vehicle to Autozone, Oreilys, or Advance and get it scanned for free. They will have a part recommended to fix this. It sounds like your "Cold Start" circuit is not resetting. This system usues a Water temperature sensor and when cold, it resets the engine controls for about 30 seconds to 2 minutes to get everything going. Most cars use 2 sensors for the water; one for a gauge and the other is for engine management.

Check if you are getting fuel to the engine. The signal from the pump to the ignition is also needed in its operation. Check the fuse and the relay.

Buy a manual from Chilton's. This is a complicated job and you will need more than a diagram. Good luck

Hi,

The main reason of your car bogging down while accelerating is insufficient fuel pressure. Also Dirty fuel filter, dirty air filter, restricted exhaust, bad catalytic converter are some of the reasons behind this. Also it is a symptom of a Bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).Check the fuel pressure first. If the pressure reads bad, it is more likely to a bad fuel pump, or a fuel regulator or if it reads ok then the problem lies in the TPS.

Please check this link to get a detailed idea related to TPS:-

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-throttle-position-sensor.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.Thank you for contacting fixya.com

if it locked up all 4 wheels then it could be a few things to look at.Start with what color the fluid looks like,if its a tan to dark brown then its time to replace it,either it got contaminated or water in it.Next look at how much brake pad and shoe is left.A good rule of thumb is to put 2 quarters together and measure them to the pads,shoes,and if the pad is thicker than the quarters than there good for now.If pads and shoe's are good then its time to move on to the master cylinder,proportioning valve,lines(metal and rubber).If the master cyl is not returning enough fluid(pressure) then it will lock the brakes.if the proportioning valve is bad it will do the same thing(some master cylinders have the proportioning valve built in to them)you will have to check to see if u have 2 or 4 lines coming off the master cyl.if its 2 then they split off to the other wheels brakes so check that.then check the lines for leaking fluid(and could let in air).Sometimes the ruber lines break apart inside so u wont see it,and lodge in any of the part mentioned above and lock the brakes also.

The GL has two timing belts. It the one that drives the distributor breaks, then no spark. Crank the engine while watching the distributors rotor, if it does not move, then it is a broken belt.

Ok, on an OBD 1 system you can read you codes by using a paperclip and jumping terminal a and b. The OBD port should be a large black plastic connector with 12 openings for wire leads. Not all of them have terminals inside in most cases. It should be at the bottom of the dash trim in the drivers side foot well. Terminal A is the upper far right terminal. Terminal B is directly beside it. After the paperclip or short piece of wire is inserted in those terminals turn the key to the on position but DON'T start the car. The check engine light will flash. 1 long flash, 2 short flashes. This let's you know the system is functioning. It should do that three times and then give any stored codes. Example 3 long flashes followed by 7 short flashes is a code 37. Have a pen and paper handy to jot the codes down. If you think you missed anything switch the key off and back on. In most cases a quick google search of example 1988 Subaru DL code 37 will net you results. Hope this helps and good luck.

You may be better to list a problem using the premium email method vs. chat. This way we can upload diagrams and procedures. With chat we are not able to upload. It seems this issue may require some diagnostics that will require some time. Just a thought.

Hi!!
The firing order for your engine is 1-3-4-2 distributor rotates counterclockwise.
A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

never done one but most vehicles have circlip at the back of the joint on the shaft and this type is a right whatsit to remove without experiance ,my best advice would be to buy two exchange shafts for about 50euros extra

Well lucky for you there is a lemon law. Bring the car in for the state inspection, Request for them to be thorough, explain that you just bought it. The past owner is responsible for the repairs. If not, get reimbursed. I'm not sure what trani fluid it takes but call the dealer for that. The noise from the front end, the grinding could be anything, check the wheel bearings, steering components, rust on rotors, backing plates, and related items. The trany noise could be nothing or it could be clutch pedal linkage, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, or clutch asembily. It would need to be inspected to see if anything applies.

that weight oil will be sufficient but use high mileage like castrol high mileage of same weight for more protection

try ebay they have alot of subaru parts thanks jeff

try and listen for a air noise even if you have to get someone to stay in the car to keep it running could be a vaccume leak.