1994 Acura Legend - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Is it not starting or do you mean there is no spark jumping at the spark plugs? Your engine is an interference engine which means if the timing belt breaks you can easily bend the valves. You most likely have bent valves so do a compression check first.If compression is 0 or low you will have to pull the head and replace the bent valves.

undo the lock handle under the dash and move the steering wheel

Check all the hoses on the engine for cracks and wear. If the car has a vacuum brake booster, it could be worn out. There is a large rubber diaphragm in it that can crack.

you have air in your coolant. This is a common problem that causes surging idle on the Legends. You need to bleed the cooling system. Have a read here http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f4/help-bleeding-cooling-system-142866/

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possible jacked the car in the wrong place and the door sill has bent up into the door opening take it to a panel repair shop for a proper diagnosis of the problem

How do you know that the head gasket is good? even with a bad thermostat it would not overheat in 3-5 min, a bad fan or relay would not make it overheat so fast , this sounds like a bad waterpump that has a bad impeller that does not circulate the coolant , but would not take coolant , if you are going through coolant and overheating that fast i would say head gasket but if you were not loosing coolant i would say to check the water pump impeller, i have seen them rust away or break,

I found this location. Sometimes, you have to hit control plus on your key pad, to enlarge.

I have an acura legend 1994 and I'm having same problem, the volume will work correctly once in a while when it wants to, otherwise I have to turn the volume on high and not even get a good sound or can nearly hear anything. I wanna know why, is it a fuse? Or electrical?

To the positive bolt /nut ( + mark )

Removing the drain plug and just letting old coolant drain out and then refilling doesn't really flush it out. It only drains what is in the radiator and it doesn't circulate and flush what is in the engine and heater core. Take radiator cap off, then take top radiator hose off where it comnects to the radiator..only disconnect that side of the radiator hose aim end of hose downwards and leave it there. Take a wet rag and push it into the radiator where the hose was connected..you don't want to push it in so far you have trouble removing after flushing...the wet rag is just to limit the amount of water that will come out of radiator where hose is no longer attached..crank car and coolant will start to slowly come out the vend of radiator hose aimed downward...have a hose or 4 or 5gallons of water...right after you crank the car pour the water or befilling the radiator with the hose...you want to keep the water going in the radiator as to keep it fulI...replace what is coming out of radiator hose...continue to add water until what is coming out of the radiator hose is clear water.. this way the water is circulating through the entire cooling system and engine. When water is coming out clean...turn car off remove rag from radiator and reconnecupper radiator hose..the drainplug is at the bottom of the radiator on the side of radiator that is on the drivers side of the car....remove drain plug and drain water left in radiator..replace drain plug and crank vehicle and fill radiator with coolant recommended for your vehicle... Sounds more complicated than it really is..other option take to a repair shop and have them flush with machine..usually around 100 bucks at ashop..Iif you have any questions Iwill be glad to answer..

Well if it were blowing antifreeze out into the jug you probably had a cracked head. When you pull the cap off does any water try to come out when you start it now? Yes it could still be a thermostat causing problems now but he probably should have changed it when he was changing the water pump. Did he replace either one of the heads or just a head gasket?

Sounds like a anti theft. Put your key in the ignition but not in the start. just put it in. See if you can remove the battery now without the horn going off. If you can also find the horn and un hook it. there should be a connection clip if you trace the wire down. Hope that helps Dan

when bleeding the system to get the air out, you may want to turn of the heater to help get all the air out of the system.

Should be in between driver and passenger seat behind the center console. Just pull back the carpet by the center console and firewall. 3 10 mm bolts hold it down. Harnesses should connect on the right. It is in a silver box.

You sure you even have a relay for power windows Find that out first No owners manual-- check at a repairs shops data base

Call Acura dealership and ask for service. Have Vin handy and answer the questions asked. They will need to prove you are the owner of the vehicle and should provide them to you over the phone free of charge

The speed sensor is in front of the oil filter. There is one 10mm bolt holding onto the differential and one wiring harness that needs to be unclipped. You will have two hoses coming from your power steering pump and reservoir. You need to crimp these somehow. I used some crimps from harbor freight tools made specifically to crimp hoses. Take your time. Do not force the sensor out. Just wiggle it side to side and it will pull out. Don't let anything get into the differential or you're gonna have a bad day. Installation is in reverse order. Hope that helps.

if it has an electric radiator fan, does it come on? and with the age of the car it could have a plugged up radiator.feel for cold spots on radiator or better yet take a laser type temperture gun and check for hot and cold readings.the car may have a blown head gasket if u waited to long befor changing the waterpump.coolant loss going out exhaust pipe.

No the oil clearance is correct for BOTH bearings @ .022 -.046 mm to try to get a true clearance measurement use a micrometer and measure in 4 places 90 degrees part this will check for out of round journal and compare to a factory journal size. there may be a .001 thousand or .002 thousand undersize bearing insert that will bring oil clearance in to specs. but most connecting rods get black from a spun bearing and they need to stay round so a inside micrometer is used to check that 10 times out 10 the connecting rod is replaced.