1990 Jeep Wrangler - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

First try shooting some starting fluid in intake manifold, and if fires up but still won't keep running, my guess next would be your looking and checking out your fuel pump. You can check that out my removing a line and see if fuel is pumping out of the out put of fuel pump. Because it it carburated its pretty easy to trouble shoot. It's going to be in most cases spark plugs , fuel pump.

If the car idled with the TBI installed before without any issues, inspect the IAC. The Idle Air Control valve ensures that you get constant idle at the correct engine speed. This may just need cleaning.

Check also for loose or cracked vacuum hoses. Check also for gaps or cracks from the air filter to the intake manifold.

Check also if you are getting constant fuel from the sending unit at the tank. You can check when starting the amount of fuel that enters the fuel filter. This may also be a bad fuel filter. Have it checked.

If you can, have a scanner connected to the diagnostic port to check if there are errors in the computer. The error code will help us diagnose the problem more accurately. Autozone and some shops as far as I know lets you borrow their scanner for free.

May be the fuel pressure regulator is bad and not regulating the fuel pump properly.

You have to bleed it at the slave cylinder not the master cylinder.Keep the bottle on the m/cyl full at all times and do not disconnect any lines.Bleed the system at the sl/cyl.Then do it again after a short drive.You still have air in the system.If you take off any m/cyl lines,you have to start all over again.
Hope this helps

If you mean the clutch throw out bearing??? No fluid goes into it, as it is sealed with grease packing inside. You may have a hydraulic clutch that actuates it, and that takes brake fluid. On the resevoir cap lists what kind. (DOT 3 or 4) This system is like a minature brake system, closed.

You might want to have your battery tested or repl;aced.On most of the newer systems you need a certain voltage in order to operate properly.Some vehicles are 9 volts others are different due to engine type and size.

There is usually a tag on the rear cover with the ratio stamped on it. If the tag has been lost you count the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide that by the number of teeth on the pinion. That number is the ratio, expressed as (your number:1) example: 3.73:1. Ive seen some ring gears that have the ratio stamped on the edge. Won't hurt to see if yours is.
Remember...the rear gear ratio needs to match what you have at the front or you will destroy the transfer case. It's also better to replace the entire differential drum to drum as setting up a gear set is a precision job that can get expensive, especially if done incorrectly.
Whatever you do, don't forget to fill it with lube when finished!!!!
Good luck!

Since you did not mention where the fuse was, you really haven't given enough info. But, if the fuse is in a fuse block, either the under dash one or the power distribution center under the hood, probably the easiest way to do that repair without replacing the entire block would be to take it apart so you can access the wiring inside, behind the one you broke, then get an in-line fuse holder. Attach it to the wiring that goes to the broken port and put the appropriate size fuse in it.When putting it back together, be sure not to pinch any wires including the new ones. Locate the fuse holder near the original block so you can get to it.
When buying the holder, note that they come rated for different draw fuses. Get one that is close to the one you will be using but don't use one that is rated lower. Using a 20 amp holder and a 15 amp fuse is fine but the other way around is not.

If you cannot find one locally rebuilt or new from the dealership, I recommend ordering one online. This company appears to sell your model, though I have never purchased from them before they might be reputable:
http://www.wowautoparts.com/1990/JEEP/WRANGLER/Transmission-Transaxle-Assembly/Manual-Transmission-4-Cylinder/7995.html

Cruise control may have interfered, or check for the fuel system like the fuel filter.

The best idea is to pull out all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) from Engine Control Module (ECM). Trouble codes can be displayed by the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or by using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector (DLC) of the vehicle.


Accessing:
1. Within 5 seconds switch ignition ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON.
2. Count MIL flashes. Note trouble codes.
3. Each trouble code consists of two groups [A] in the figure below.


4. The first group of flashes indicates the "tens" of the trouble code.
5. The second group of flashes indicates the "units" of the trouble code.
6. A short pause separates "tens" and "units" [B] in the above picture.
7. A long pause separates each trouble code [C] in the above picture.
8. For example: Trouble code "21" displayed in the above picture.
9. End of test sequence indicated by trouble code "55".
10. Trouble codes can also be displayed by the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or by using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector (DLC) of the vehicle.


Erasing:

NOTE: Disconnecting battery earth lead may cause driveability problems until the engine management system relearns basic values!

1. Ensure ignition switched OFF.
2. Disconnect battery earth lead for at least 30 seconds.
3. Reconnect battery earth lead.
4. Repeat accessing procedure to ensure no trouble codes remain in ECM fault memory.

NOTE: Disconnecting battery may erase memory from electronic units (e.g. radio, clock).

NOTE: Trouble codes can also be erased by using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector (DLC) of the vehicle.

Essentially, since the valves and distributor are both driven by the camshaft (via the timing chain), both are equally affected by anything that happens to the chain. Chains don't actually "jump time"
but most often will stretch out and cause the cam and distributor to lag behind the crankshaft so the pistons are out of phase with them. That causes lower and lower actual compression and later and later spark, resulting in poor power output and in extreme cases, a piston can actually touch and bend a lagging valve. If an engine is fitted with an aluminum cam gear, the gear teeth are nylon. As the gear turns, an excessively worn chain will ride up and strip off the teeth.
The best way to check is to remove the valve cover and watch the rocker arms on #1 cylinder. Both valves should be completely closed when the engine is turned to the top dead center (0) position on the timing scale and the distributor rotor should point to the #1 tower on the distributor cap. (will also point exactly 180 degrees away from it if on the exhaust stroke)
Very low compression readings in all cylinders and a rotor that "stutters when the engine is cranking are other common symptoms)
If you have those symptoms, the next thing to do is remove the timing case cover and look at the chain. if the engine has 200K miles or better, I'd replace the chain, as at that point, most chains have sufficient wear to justify replacement even in engines that seem to be running well.
This answers your question but may not solve your problem as your post leads me to believe there is something other than a valve timing issue going on there.

Have your crank sensor or distributor checked. They send signals to the ecu, to fire the coil for each cylinder.

Turn the headlights on for a moment--they should be bright and stay bright when trying to start the engine. If the lights go out--suspect a discharged battery or a bad battery cable connection at the battery. Have some one try the key while you listen at the engine. If the click is coming from the starter area, use a test light or meter to verify that the large battery cable coming to the starter has power at the starter terminal when the 'click' occurs. If ok, remove the starter and have it tested at Autozone or other auto parts supplier. They will be happy to sell you a replacement. Hope this helps!

try using a bearing that is in a metal casiing and not a plastic piece of junk that comes in the clutch kit nowdays ,they always end up going wrong where bearing melts the holder ,unless you can fit a thin telecamit tube and a grease nipple so clutch bearing can be greased every few months like on a good old fashioned commercial vehicle

Is this an optical issusion and the indicators are merely being "flooded " by the wash of light from the headlights. Try a stronger bulb in the indicators or use amber bulbs if not already fitted.

you could check if the fuel in the car is not got dirt in it or other stuff.drain some in a glass and see for impurities.

Sounds like a leaking master or slave for the clutch that is not permitting full disengagement. If it only happens when cold it could also be caused by incorrect lube (too heavy) in the transmission, but that is unusual.
Make sure the fluid in the clutch master cylinder is full and that there is no visible seepage where the rod enters from the pedal and that there also is no seepage at the slave unit.

Check the fuel for a presence of water. I'm sure there was a recall notice on the gasket on top of the fuel tank where the sending unit mounts. My YJ sat for a year and had water in the tank from this leaking. Drain and drop the tank, replace the gasket, and reinstall.

Check your Crankshaft position sensor