20 Most Recent 2002 Volvo V40 Wagon Questions & Answers

If you are getting a check engine light check the codes. I would think either you have a faulty throttle body or the oil trap is plugged up.

Yeah, the Volvo dealer that you are dealing with is the proverbial POS - if possible cancel the deal, get your dinero back and get the car from an outfit that can properly service the vehicle.

Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. If there is any trace of fuel then the regulator is the fault

Check fuel pump and etc

Loss of Serial Communication Link http://www.autocodes.com/p0600.html

follow this link as has been very helpful in the past User login

If the fuse is OK it is probably Central Electronic Module. There are some relays in it that switch high-current deviced as headlights. The relays sometimes are dead after years of work. It is possible to replace only the relays (about 1 euro) instead of whole module (a few hundred euros at the dealer).

sender unit in your fuel tank has failed .change it.

well all i can say is he is not much of a mechanic for not fixing it for you so i suggest you find a better one ,sorry to sound so hard but ?? Their is always a way around any problem if going back to basics to know the problem ,no power ? then re run a new cable from the switch ,easy or am i being over simplistic here.What would have happened if i hadnt got the lorries to run and be on the road when the drivers start work at 07.00 in the morning .i would have been out of work ,fired ,sacked or whatever you want to call it

turn the lights off at the headlamp switch, hold the high beam flash stalk on and turn the light switch all the way on and then all the way off again. This toggles the DRL on my 2004 V40.

cannot remember if you have to have the ignition on (engine not running) or engine off.

give it a fiddle and see what happens.

1. Check the flow of the expansion valve valve in the evaporator case. You achieve this test without tools. Simply feel the difference in temperature of the two lines. The incoming line should be palpably cold while the out going line should feel substantially warmer. The valve is a brass unit with an heavy duty (or brass line) attached to allow freon into the evaporator core at a rate such that sufficient freon (134a) flows into the evaporator but not so much that it floods the core. The problem may be either an overcharged system or a faulty expansion valve. An unlikely cause is that the evaporator core is getting too cold and freezing the moist warm air passing over the evaporator core and literally turning it into a chuck of solid ice.

2. Many systems are purposely designed to operate intermittently in order to conserve fuel. An excellent test of the system's performance is simple and requires a warm day and a basic stick thermometer. Back in the days of R-12 refrigerant used into the late 1980's and sometimes very early 1990's, automotive air conditioning systems could produce vent air temperatures as low as 33F. These vent temperature could easily create ice formations on the inside and outside of the windshield at the defroster vents With today's focus on energy efficiency, green house gases and global warming, all manufacturers are required to use 134a or an equivalent that will not bond with carbon dioxide to ehance the greenhouse gas effect. The 134a filled systems can create a maximum temperature difference between ambient outside temperature and vent temperature of about 40 degrees F. If it's 90F outside, a well charged system will produce a vent temperature of about 50F.

With 134a, which is used in the Volvo along with a rotary or eccentric compressor, you will get intermittent operation due to a low-side pressure switch which protects the compresssor from operating with insufficient incoming oil-laden freon. Ok. Now I'm geting too technical. If you can achieve a 30-40 degree fahrenheit temperature difference at the center vents on the dash, you are doing just fine.

did you use a OBD-II scanner to erase codes!! this method is prefered. if you do not have one, auto-zone will erase the light for free. good-day !

The sound may not necessarily but buyers off but they may also bargain for the price as they may fear cost of fixing the rattling sound.
Check first if this happens when the car is in gear or when moving. If it is it could be the transmission. It may be the transfer case but always try to change transmission fluid first to see if it helps.
Check also if this occurs when the aircon is turned on. It may just be the AC compressor. It may be the belt or the actual compressor itself.
On the engine if the sound occurs when the AC is on or not or if the car is at stand still it may be the VVT solenoid on top of the valve cover. Normally a change of oil would help but the solenoid may be failing. If you can get a scanner to see if there are errors stored in the computer that would help out. If the check engine light has not yet lit up it may not be a serious problem now. Unfortunately you get to see how big the problem is when you get to open the engine top.