20 Most Recent 1986 Volvo 740 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Most common problem is burned connectors at the relay that switches from high to low beams. I think that in '86, the relay was still inside the car above the driver's left foot. If not there, it is toward the front of the passenger compartment on the driver side, between the front inner fender and the battery. If it clicks when you move the dimmer switch, you can follow the click to find it. If the wires are good, the relay contacts may have failed.
On my '91, I lost the low beams because the headlight circuit in the bulb failure sensor had failed. The bulb failure sensor was an orange can-shaped device directly below the steering column under the dash. The headlight low beam wires were gray, as I recall. A new sensor was $150, so I cut the wires and bypassed it. I figured I could tell if I had a low beam burned out. I did not need a warning light for that. The bulb failure sensor still worked for the tail lights.

There should be a pair of wires going to it to supply the field coil voltage( this is the voltage applied to the field coils to produce the magnetic energy to generate the power in the stator assembly)...there shold be 12 volts going to these wires

test for a current to the fan first .. could be a switch

2 things here is your exaust smokeing or does it have a misfire or lose of power deffently sounds like a head gasket to me but if its not doing most of these things check your thermastat and if its ur head gasket put in a new thermastat regardless for no more than what it costs

Whater temperature sensor , probably fell off.

There is a torque rod attached to the lower control arms. The bushings normally wear out and causes the play you are seeing.

hi chris, this is one of the first fuzzy logic auto boxes to be fitted to a european car,followed by vw(zf make them,as do borg warner)
try this, just to make yourself aware of whats happening,without touching the gas,put the car in drive and let it accelerate itself ,right upto top gear,stop, then using 1/3 pedal,do the same,stop, then floor it,you will feel the differances right away,(the car will try to make you drive more smoothly,saving gas).other than checking fluid level,
every 6k,the only fix,if needed, is a rebuild.
but,if you know why it baulks in 2nd,(big drop in revs,between 1st and 2nd),you will feel better.
this is not in any handbooks.
regards
geoff

Often I have seen this when the car sits for a while. The first time you turn them on after a long rest the fuse blows. Of course you could have a switch problem or a motor problem as well but start with the fuse and make sure it is still good.

THERMOSTAT BAD OR RADIATOR THERMOSTAT IS CHEAPEST

Easy as pie..
Go to Autozone.com. Register yourself... it's FREE
Type in your vehicle info... year, make, model, eng..
Go to repair guides section. It's all there. PLUS you'll get the costs while you're on the site!

FYI: if you're not registered, you can't view guides and manuals.

Probably in the fuel tank. You may have to drop the tank to gain access to the pump.

Do the air purge test below.

The fins/turbine on water pump can be totally worn out.

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When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.

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Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.

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MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!

RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!

You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!

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Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.

If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost

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A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

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Nope.Not sure about yours but 95% of the tailshafts that I know,just slide out.Best you change the rear oil seal at the same time.Best time to do it.Hope this helps

Short and simple: yes.

make sure the filter was installed with the correct direction of flow. there will be an arrow telling you which way the filter flows.

this means the trans is slipping

The trans fluid goes down the tube that has the trans dipstick in it.A firm fitting hose,funnel and a bit of patience is needed to refill.The fluid does drain in slowly.Hope this helps

YES ITS OLD AND THE HEAD GASKET TO

This could be several problems. Start by checking for a leak in ther manifold, then check the plugs, wires, distributors, fuel filter, fuel injectors, check vacuum hoses going to manifold, check idle air control valve. To do this purchase you a repair manual for the model of car which you have. to save money on paets, check ebay or a salvage yard.