20 Most Recent 1990 Volvo 740 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

If you have a manual transmission model, check the wiring to the overdrive solenoid (M46,M47 transmission with type M overdrive) and check all fuses. This solenoid simply opens a check valve that allows the overdrive to function (DO NOT reverse the vehicle with the overdrive engaged or damage will result to the unit itself).
Automatic transmission models also have an overdrive override solenoid, bottom left side. If it is stuck in the override mode, check for shorted wiring to the solenoid. Also check the switch which can bind closed. If you can put a voltmeter on the wiring to the solenoid itself, check for voltage; if you have voltage and the switch is known good, the wiring is faulty. No voltage means the solenoid plunger is stuck down. Remove the solenoid and repair or replace it. In most cases replacement of a well-used item is better than repair.
All models: Always verify the condition of the wiring and connectors before condemning the unit. In most cases a voltmeter will rule out what the solenoid isn't doing. If you have voltage at the terminals on manual transmission models but no overdrive function, the solenoid has either seized or the coil has burned out. On automatic transmission models voltage at the terminals means the opposite: the solenoid will override overdrive and keep it in the third gear. No voltage for manual means no overdrive; no voltage on the terminals for automatic models means overdrive engages normally; if this is the case, replace the solenoid.
If, after all this checks out, on automatic models, this means that the transmission valve body has plugged up with deposits. For manual models, it means roughly the same (the overdrive is essentially a one-gear automatic transmission) and it also indicates that something is amiss with the hydraulic circuits, in both cases. Low line pressure can also cause this to happen in both types which means either the fluid is bad, the valve body is dirty, the screen is clogged or the main oil pump in the transmission (automatic models) is leaking. Always perform a thorough check before condemning either transmission type - they are conventional in design and very sturdy.
On AW-7x transmissions, no brake bands are used, therefore only clutch packs are employed. On the M46 and M47 manual models, the overdrive is a bolt on unit (type J or type M, depending on year). On the ZF series of automatic transmissions, the overdrive is integral to the transmission, being a true fourth gear. All models use a solenoid to control the upper gear range.
Note also that if you have the manual transmission, it may prove risky to rebuild it if you can beat the synchro by a quick change. Rebuilds offer up different wear surfaces to the case and can make a noisy transmission noisier.
Automatic models utilize clutch packs front to back. Band brakes were eliminated entirely, and when these start to fail the most noticeable problem is sloppy, hard shifting even after a fluid and screen job. The clutch wear surfaces decrease in friction holding and become thin. This implies loose clutches and this implies poor shift quality.
Always change the fluid completely (including the oil cooler, note it is thermostatically controlled) and clean the magnets of all debris. Introduce new oil into the system and test again.

Get the car to a volvo mechanic for repair of the flex plate.

Any of the following duralast parts numbers would be a perfect fit for your car, and can be found at the local autozone. If you would prefer a different brand please respond to my post and I will be more than happy to suggest other brands and part numbers. I suggest duralast because that is what I prefer to use in my vehicles. Part # 47-DL, 48-DL, H6-DLG, H5-DLG I hope this helps, please rate this. Thank you

First, determine if your fuel pumps are bad. Check the fuses, fuel pump relays and connections. Listen for whirring sounds when you turn the key to 'run' not start. You should hear an audible click and for one to two seconds, the fuel pumps should activate. NG, check the wiring carefully. The fuel pump relay is known to fail ambiguously and this is a pretty cheap part - much cheaper than changing out fuel pumps and hoses. The hoses don't usually break, but the fuel filter can get clogged up and the main pump can get knackered from a failed tank pump. Ensure to check voltage is at the terminals - changing fuel pumps won't fix electrical faults in the system. Good luck!

Replacement of the timing belt on B230F engines is fairly straightforward. Note that you will need the proper tool to secure the crankshaft sprocket during removal procedures. Obtain the timing belt tensioner as well; it is designed to last only as long as the timing belt.
Begin by cleaning the area around the timing belt upper cover.
Remove the upper cover.
Remove the drivebelts on all accessory components.
Remove the fan (if you have a mechanical fan). Carefully leverage it out of the shroud. It may be necessary to remove the shroud as well - two 7mm bolts secure it to the radiator.
Remove the lower bellhousing cover at the rear of the engine.
Turn the crankshaft to bring the engine to Number 1 cylinder, TDC, firing. The timing marks will align when this is done.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket bolt. It may be very tight, and clearance is quite limited. Take care not to move the crankshaft from its set position.
Inspect all front oil seals before continuing, along with the water pump condition. If anti-boil weeps from the weep hole on top, you must replace the water pump or else it will contaminate the new belt.
Lock the timing belt tensioner in position. This can be done with a small nail, bringing it back and out of the way.
Remove the timing belt.
Replace all oil seals that leak, are weak or missing. Oil will ruin the new timing belt.
Installation is essentially a reversal of removal, after the tensioner is replaced and unlocked, spin the crankshaft sprocket two complete turns, noting if the timing is correct by way of the pointers aligning with the marks in the rear timing cover. Push down on the belt to ensure it seats correctly. Tighten the tensioner to the specified torque.
Install the cover, rear bellhousing cover (if removal was necessary) and nuts. Screw the backplate onto the front timing cover.
Install the fan and fan shroud.
Refill the coolant if the water pump was changed.
After double-checking installation items, road test the vehicle after allowing it to warm up to check for coolant or oil leakage.
After 600 miles, remove the rubber plug at the front of the timing cover. Loosen and tighten the tensioner bolt. Place your labels indicating mileage and date of timing belt drive maintenance at the front of the engine.

1) The fuel pump could be dead.
2) The fuel pump relay (LH models it is located on the driver's side), Regina systems it is located on the coolant expansion tank. Test as follows: turn key to ON and listen for a whirring sound. NG, check the fuse, then check the relay by substitution.
3) Inside the car, the fuel injection relay could also be suspect, but unlikely. Again, check by substitution.

Remember that the fuel pump relay can sometimes fail because of the solder joints making it intermittent. Do not attempt to short across it without the pinouts for the relay - it could destroy the computer outputs along with the computer itself.

You should see a brief stream of gas doing the key test - along with a click of the relay as well with the fuel pump filter disconnected. If all tests good, remove the cover (sedan models) and check the connections in the trunk. On wagon models it is accessed by way of the foldout in the trunk area, then remove the inspection cover, if needed.

On manual sunroof models, the crank assembly drives a small pinion gear. It can easily be converted to power sunroof. This is a common problem, and the issue is two fold. First, the sunroof may jam at the point where the windbar meets the sunroof. You can simply pull the bar down, and it closes from there. If it's jammed back, carefully crank it further open and examine the bracings and screws holding it in place. Tighten the screws and clean the tracks. Oil the tracks with light spray oil and crank it closed to the point where it jams and give it a little push - you will hear a click and it will pass that mark. Be careful, don't force anything. If it still refuses to close, it will require some adjustments to ensure it isn't cocked on an angle when trying to close it. To close it, begin cranking carefully and put your fingers on the sunroof and pull forward at the same time.

There is an adjustment procedure, illustrated in the Haynes manual for these vehicles. It is somewhat complicated, but it is fairly straightforward. Be sure to be patient or the cables may break - especially if they are dirty and the track is misaligned or extremely dirty. I had this same problem, and converting to power sunroof eliminated the noises and also gave me a better traveling quality since the unit doesn't allow any fore/aft movement. Boneyard motors are easy to come by, and the wiring is a snap to install. Be sure to obtain the switch bank whilst you are there. It's 15 dollars - and by far and away a great investment. Get the cover trim plate that goes where your crank is also - you can always spray paint to match your vehicle's color - mine was Business Gray and I used black covers. It took me about 30 minutes to install and all day to enjoy.

supplemential restraint system,covers from air bag to seat belts, most times when light is on it means problem with that system and it is shut off, on the other hand newer vehicls you can shut off passenger air bag and a light will remind you that a suppemential restraint system is off.

Check under the hood for a box containing your fusible links (they look like large blade fuses in most modern vehicles). The fuel pump relay only operates the fuel pump. It doesn't provide power to the rest of the fuel system. Odds are the fuse for the injection system is blown. The inside of the cover of most fusible link cases usually has a diagram which tells what each fuse is. The easiest thing to do is locate that fuse and remove it (with the vehicle off of course) and visually inspect to see if it's blown. If it is, simply replace it and see if that corrects your problem. While you're under the hood you might want to trace the wires back to their origin and check to be sure the harness is not rubbing or chafing against anything that might have caused wires to break and short. It's rare for those fusible links to blow without a reason.

This is easily fixed if it is in fact a clogged drain. Open the sunroof, and you will see a small drain hole at each of the four corners of the opening. The holes drain down through the inner body work, and the water leaks out through a bottom weep hole. Try pouring a few ounces of water down one of the holes, it should flow freely, and you will see it puddle under the car. If the drain is clogged or flows slowly, you must unclog it by blowing compressed air down the hole, or use a long flexible wire to roto-root the clog. Do this for the other three drain holes, and you should be ready for the next rainfall or car wash. While you are at it, clean out the weep holes at the bottom of the rocker panels, there are several holes on each side of the car. Good Luck.

Go to an auto supply store like PEP boys or Advance Auto, etc., and buy a Haynes Repair Manual for the 740. You may be able to consult one at your local library for free. Even if it doesn't cover your model year, the replacement instructions are pretty much the same for all years. in fact even a 240 Volvo manual would be essentially the same. Pay particular attention to the installation instructions....you have to slide the pump on, and then rotate it a few degrees clockwise to make the upper o-ring seal. Good luck!

In order to remove the radio, first pull off the the radio knobs (tuning and volume, etc.) there is an outer knob, and an inner ring on each side, first pull off the outer knob....pull straight out- it's tight but it will come off with some hard pulling...then slide the inner ring straight off. Do the same to the other side. Use a flashlight, and look thru the knob hole, between the knob shaft and the outside edge of the knob hole, and you will see and you will see a silver spring clip. Use a slim screwdriver or pen knife to gently pry the end of the spring clip toward the center of the radio, as you try to pull the radio towards you. It will come out about 1/4 of an inch. Then do the same thing to the other side, and the radio will easily slide right out. Good luck.

Hi,

Jus replace the valve cover gasket.

Replacing it is simple, you have to clean the cover thoroughly before placing the new one, use a silicone on the new rubber gasket seal, to add up it sealing.

Hope that helps you out!

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See if you can get someone to help you, because someone needs to start the car and someone needs to look under the car, don't lift the car up while looking under there. You need to see if the steering wheel is turning under the car. It may be turning right, but it may be something blocking it from turning left. A tie rod could be broken.

jack each wheel up in turn and check the toothed wheel that sensor picks ip on ,they can come loose on the drive shaft ,if all ok then check each sensor in turn by disconnecting it and putting a meter on the end of the two wires set to milliviolts and pass a spanner over the head of the sensor and see if it produces a current

low of ground.check the ground wire

check the crank angle sensor and the ignition module

Hi,

Did you actually flip the breaker all the way off, or did you just look at it? Sometimes it can be difficult to tell when a breaker has tripped - so it's a good practice to flip it all the way off, and then back on. (Flipping it all the way off resets the breaker and it has to be all the way off, not just in the middle).

Also check if you've got a wire disconnected, or broken. If you've never worked with electricity, I'd suggest calling someone who has. (I'd see if turning the breaker all the way off worked first).To run down the problem, the switches will have to be pulled out of the gang box, and the wiring checked. It's possible to do this as a DIY project, but you must be very careful. Turn the breaker off first, pull them out, and inspect the wiring. If there is nothing obviously disconnected or broken, then a multimeter will be needed to check voltage on the wires. Again, if you've never done this before, it would be safer to call in an electrician, or maintenance tech.

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if the wheels are pointed to the left than turn the steering wheel gently to the left. If there is to much pressure on the steering wheel position lock it will make it difficult to turn the key. Taking the pressure off the lock by steering the wheel into the direction of the turn will help take the pressure off. If that is the problem the key should turn. If the key still doesn't turn than there is a problem with the lock cylinder.

With the key removed from the lock cylinder you can tap on the lock cylinder with the handle end of a screw driver. After a couple taps try turning the key again. Repeat a couple of times. If the key turns after trying this than the lock cylinder needs to be replaced ASAP. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa