20 Most Recent 1990 Volvo 740 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

try a transmisson fuild and filter change and have the shift lever looked at. to see if the cable has slipped and is not actually shoingthe gear that it's in.

You may have to bend the conections on the fuel pump relay, so they fit tightly. Try gently twisting it l/r, while turning the engine over.
Hope that's it.

If you rate me nicely, I have the solution for you.
It's the fuel pump relay.
It is located behind the ashtray.
Above the fuses, and it's the one on the right.
In order to safely remove this common problem, you need to first remove the screws that hold the cigar lighter in place. Then remove housing, Et voila!
Happy motoring (again:)

Possible pinion brg is bad. Have the oil drained and check for metal. Drag a magnet through the oil if it isn't outright noticeable.

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Engine-Mechanical1.html is a link to the proceedure. I think I still have the service manual myself somewhere that shows how its done.
you have to scroll down a bit to find the valve adjustment info. I read thru it and it seems pretty acurate. I had the 1990 model B230FT engine in my first volvo. I hated giving that car to my mother in law. The guy who wrote the article is correct about the frequency of adjustment. I had 200K miles on mine and it still needed no valve adjustment and didnt burn oil. I loved maintaining that car... it was so easy to get to everything. I know that in the past you could get a shim kit from the dealer and when you bring it back you would only be charged for the shims you used.
good luck. hope this helps.

Try replacing your fuel pump relay,this controls this.The fuelpump relay is two relays in one unit.

Check the connection at the speed o sensor. It's in the differential cover, about 3" above the filler plug. Be sure it's mechanically secure, and check the contacts (both sensor and connector) for signs of corrosion or oxidation. As much as possible, examine the harness for any signs of a break or tear, or for signs the wire might have been cut. If it's not wiring, then it's either the sensor or the speedometer head (which is electronic). Possibly, the power supplied to the speedo head where it's mounted in the dash cluster is intermittent. The speedometer in my 745 with 160K has been jumping around a little on the highway. The cruise control would try to follow the erratic speedometer, then disengage. I suspected a broken wire at the sending unit. What I found was a burnt wire at the sending unit. The wire had grounded out on Volvo's safety wire. I suspect that the safety wire slowly eat through the insulation on the wiring, causing it to ground out. The plug was melted and an inch or so of insulation on the green stripe wire. Make sure the safety wire is not cutting into the two wires on the sending unit at the back of your rear end. [Response: Scott] Check the instrument cluster grounds under the dash and in the right footwell. In 88 there were some 700 series cars that would register up to 60 mph while sitting still and the grounding problem was the cause.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

This is for your airbags,no big deal.

Replace your fuel pump relay,this controls the power to the pumps.

The belt goes to flywheel, radiator cooling fan and alternator. It does not go to a/c depending on what engine configuration.

Hmmm...I don't think the clearance on your16v engine are that much different than the 8 valve models. On them, all you do is loosen the passenger side engine mount and jack the motor up. Be sure to use a block of wood so you don't bend anything. If you have access to a hoist or can build a support to use a come-along to winch it up it makes things much easier. If fo some reason one does have to loosen the steering yoke, the couplers are down where it attaches to the cross member. There is a pinch bolt you loosen and then it will slide.
If you're losing enough oil in 45 minutes that the oil light comes on or the engine begins rattling, you have more to contend with than an oil pan gasket. OP gaskets drip, not pour. I've installed a pan w/ no gasket and not had the severity of oil loss you describe.

I assume you've discovered the answer by now. At some point, some one has removed the crank. It is not turning far enough to open the vent fully. Just remove the crank and notice there is a locking pin on the side of the knurled knob near the windshield. With a pair of pliers (gently, don't bung up the knurls) rotate the knob until the vent is fully open; replace the crank and you're done.

sounds like a bad ignition switch, no the key clylinder but the actual electrical switch.

we have the same car, i would have a mechanic check the ECU. thats the first step in finding out what is wrong and why its burning so mutch fuel. it could also be your air filter, but then agian, you wouldnt be burning a tank of gas a day. well hope you get it fixed.

sounds like you have a computer glitch. i would take it to any auto shop and pay 50 bucks so they can take a look at your e.c.u. (engine control unit) we had a similar problem a few years ago with our 1990 volvo 740 gle 2.3l station wagon. it was a glitch with the computer. got a mixed signal with the mass air flow sensor.

Sounds like your overdrive solenoid is dirty or broken. Take off the solenoid and clean it really well, put it back on and see if it works. If not you will have to replace it.
This happened to my fathers and I had to clean it.
Sometimes the tranny oil is so dirty that little bits of metal get stuck in the solenoid area and you have to scrape them off. You might want to do a tranny flush if it's bad.

Thank you thank you! This solved my problem. I have a V70 and I parked it on a steep hill and cranked the wheel toward the curb. When I tried to turn the key in the ignition it would not turn and the wheel was in a tightly locked position. Wouldn't budge -or so I thought. The best solution was right. I pulled the wheel INTO the steer and it gave with some resistance as if it was on a spring. That was all I needed to turn the key in the lock.

Many things can cause this on your 740. Fuel pump, fuel pump relay, rpm sensor, MAF sensor, radio suppression relay. I've never seen the coil fail on these era Volvo's, ever. And I've diagnosed at least 50 of these with stalling problems. Check the codes, and when it wont start, check for spark and fuel pressure, you're likely missing one of them.

its possible that the fuel pump has been compromised. most pumps dont like being run dry, and it causes them to burn up.

check to see if you hear the pump engage when you turn the key to the on position, sounds like a hum in the rear.