20 Most Recent 1991 Volvo 240 Questions & Answers

This sound like the overdrive relay. try to reset the relay. It looks like this one. I am in no way affiliated with the site my brother had the same problem with his Volvo

google 1991 volvo brake light There several stores that have lamps.

the cooler lines are probly clogged causing trans to overheat--buy a haynes manual or chec library in auto section

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gA-iH9dXn6A good luck

Solder to the circuit board, just in case they interact with other circuits.

Google Volvo wiring diagram. They are available free. The diagram shows the wire location and colors. Otherwise, run a continuity test with a simple meter to discover a connection with some resistance between a pair of wires. If you here a click or two, from the speakers, you have found the right pair. Continue and label the pairs left, right, front,rear, until all are identified. Then reconnect. A pain but not rocket science.

According to my wiring diagram, the headlight switch works a relay which is powered by two different fuses. I would check the relay for voltage first.You may need a repair manual to trace the circuits.

I would try cleaning the Electronic Idle Air Control Valve with a trusted Electrical Cleaner then a Non-Conductive Lubricant.

Best to ask a Volvo forum Volvo 850 plug wires order Volvo Performance Repairs And Modifications

What is happening is the tranny is going. They can try to replace the selenoid, but really, you need a rebuild. Whomever charged you to remove the light, probably messed things up more. Volvo's typically lose overdrive before losing all the other gears. It is time for a rebuild. Go to a reputable tranny shop who knows volvos.

right next to catalytic converter

The speed sensor or crank sensor as called by other vehicles is on the rear pass side. Follow a black wire that looks like a spark plug wire. It has a connector and 1 bolt where it attaches near trans. Well known for failing and no spark.

One fuel pump may have died. Either the in-tank pump or the in-line pump which is below the left rear passenger floorboard. I would test power to in-line pump first. You can start engine and have a friend lay down by the in-line pump and listen for it to churn/buzz/hum.

WD40 and several paper towels. Soak the switch and work it back and forth and repeat until it works. Corrosion is the problem.

Check the Fuel Pressure. You may have a plugged fuel filter of bad fuel pump.

The automatic transmission fitted on these models could be the AW-70, AW-70L or AW-72. The three transmissions are very similar. They are conventional in design though they are clutch-type (no brake bands) and very sturdy. The automatic transmission is a complex unit, but if not abused, is reliable and long-lasting. Troubleshooting these units is fairly complex, so the home mechanic should be concerned with one thing to start: oil level and condition. Begin by having the idle line pressure tested when warm (it tends to drop as the oil warms up). If the level is low, ensure no leaks are present and top it off as needed (do not overfill - fill when the transmission is hot - if overfilled, this can damage the transmission as well as cause hot oil to be ejected from the fill hole) and test drive it again. Ensure to follow procedures when topping up automatic transmission oil, and ensure it is of the correct type. If the oil level is OK and line pressure is not then replacement of the oil and screen along with cleaning of the magnets should be done. The magnets are there to trap metal contaminants before they can damage the transmission. The oil should be flushed out, filter changed and magnets cleaned at least every 80,000 miles. Have this done first to see if the problem goes away. If it persists, then the clutch pack for that gear or the valve body is suspect. If the oil is new and proper drain and flush procedures have been followed, it's possible that the check ball in the valve body is sticking once warm. What I have done with these is drop out that valve body and clean it thoroughly, provided scrupulous cleanliness is observed. While cleaning it, replace the check balls and associated springs. If this checks out OK after the maintenance, then it's possible the pistons, accumulators or clutch packs have probably worn out. If by this point, the transmission still doesn't function normally, then replacement is the only fix. No DIY repair is recommended and may be exchanged in part exchange for a new or rebuilt unit.

there is ashort to earth in the chime system , what does fuse 8 control ? that is were the short will be

Check vacuum lines for leaks.