1996 Volvo 960 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

My first thought is a map sensor being dirty but that model has so many different sensors it's hard to diagnose. Do you have a repair manual to where the car does a self diagnosis test? Hope this helps....

All kinds of repair manuals are available here.Have a look of this may be you will get something useful. Volvo 960 S90 V90 Wiring Diagrams 1997 1998 Download

No, the cover over and under the steering column comes off separately. If I remember right, you just have to pry it a little bit OR there was a screw or two on the bottom (looking up from the floor) that held it in. Then it's just squeezed together with little tabs. The top half comes off and the bottom half comes off. Then you can access the stalks.

you need service and repair manual to solve the problem and you can get the manual from the given link http://toolsnyou.com/

Hesitation is rarely due to injector problems! Have you checked the throttle position sensor, and checked for possible vacuum leaks? What about the EGR valve?

take it to a volvo dealer and have the codes read most likely a coolant temp sensor, ambient temp sensor, Baro sensor, MAP/VAF sensor problem the fault codes will tell you

Check ignition points (distributor, coils, wires and spark plugs) ten use a fuel pressure guage on the fuel rail comnector to see if ur fuel pump is giving consistant pressure. Also check / replace fuel pressure regulator if necessary

Faced similar problem. Open up the dash, change all the 4 vacuum bellows and the 2 vaccum hoses connected from the firewall to the bellow on the driver's side. Also replace the 2 valve in the hood which are connected into the firewall. Problem of losing air during acceleration solved.

Are we talking about no cranking at all or cranks but won't start?

The fluid level might be too low, the linkage might be bad or loose, the clutch packs or gears in the unit might be worn out.

Yes it does

common problem is coking up

maybe you got pennies money stuck in the track if not you got 1 motor for that the motor goes in a assembly in there you have 2 cable a left and a right lock under the seat you probably got the right cale disconnect sometime there stuff that push under the seat and push that cable off if its that just push the cable back in let me know and please if you can take the time to rate this thank you pierre
p.s when you try to put the cable back in dont force to mush
PIERRE

mistakes happen ? I don't know if you go to auto zone on line log in you can get codes from there online library

go to e-bay or after market site I bet you'll find one

at the dealer can help you

There are three things needed for an engine to run:

• Fuel
• Spark
• Air (Compression)

If the car shut down suddenly without prior warning, and if the engine cranks over very fast (seemingly faster than normal), then my first guess would be a broken timing belt. This is bad because not only did you lose compression because the timing belt keeps the valves in sync with the pistons, that very fact means that the breaking of the belt most likely did internal damage to the engine in the form of bent valves. The very first thing you should do is to pull the plugs and do a compression check of the engine. If the cylinders are not all at the same level of pressure (within reason), or there is little or no compression in one or more cylinders, then the timing belt is gone. If compression is good, then the issue is either spark or fuel. Ensure spark is available by using a pair of insulated pliers to pull off one of the plug wires and hold it near the engine block. Crank the engine and watch for spark from the wire to the block. If there, you have spark. If not you must troubleshoot the cause. Fuel can be easiest or hardest to determine. Most vehicles have electric fuel pumps. Most have a "prime" function that occurs when first turning the key to the ON position. This allows the pump to bring the fuel rail to pressure for the injectors. Without starting the engine, turn the key to "ON" listen for a 3-5 second humming noise. This would be the fuel pump priming the fuel system. If you hear this you should have fuel to the rail. If you don't check the rail for fuel availability,.

1. Check the coil pack 2. Check the wire harness 3. Check the ignition circuit unit (2 sets), nicely attached to the inlet manifold on either side.

The oil could be from the power steering system. It could be the seals at the steering rack leaking or the high pressure hose at the connecting tips at both end have given way.

It is encouraged that to use fully synthetic oil since the engine is running on 24 valves to avoid sticky exhaust valves. Sticky in the sense that there will be carbons deposited and once this happens, the idling of the engine will be affected