20 Most Recent 1997 Volvo 960 Questions & Answers

possible items are clutch and band adjustments , oil pump pressures and dirty transmission oil have it diagnosed by an accredited specialist transmission shop

headlight relay is the problem. it is located in dash above radio in a fuse cluster. local autozone can tell you exactly

head gasket blown or warped heador cracked head on engine

Richard, you really should get a manual. last link manual is free. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." 1997 Volvo 960 front suspension Google Search Volvo Strut Replacement 850 Front Struts Mounts Spring Seats Suspension... SUSPENSION FRONT

run the fault codes and check for a torque converter clutch servo/solenoid problem

The usual cause of this is a bad PNP switch or gear position sensor. The "W" is flashing because the transmission control module is stuck in the Winter mode. If you are not familiar with sensor, I suggest you go and have the transmission codes read and reset to begin with and then post back the results.

The vent pipe is bad coming from the filler neck hose. Replace it as a unit. The 1/2 tank reading is a defective sending unit. The are notorious for coming apart in the tank.

if it is lacking power and stalls at stops, it may be a bad fuel filter. when car is off, the dirt inside the filter drops to the bottom. but as soon as its started it rises up. that is what usually causes a car to stall. when stopped. if the car bogs down on hills and it was fine before, then its the fuel filter. there are many things to make a car stall at stops, but check the fuel filter first then go from there if problem still exists. and check all vacuum lines in engine compartment. there may be a leak. clean throttle body out if needed. good-day! check and or replace the Idle air control. (IAC) it may be sticking.

I have seen timing belt overhaul kits. They may be worth looking at.
You can check at the library for Hayes or Chilton's repair manuals and the www.Autozone.com do it yourself instruction website.
Here is instructions from the UK. They have pictures.
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineSealsBeltsVent.html#960TimingBeltChange

If you need to remove the crankshaft pulley nut with rope method, you can determine the TDC of a cylinder by tracing the sparkplug cable back to the distributor cap and looking at the rotor position. It should be in the firing position
Here's some info in found if you want to remove the water pump as well, or you can ignore that.
From my research the idler bearing probably should be changed. If it goes the belt will slip and destroy the engine.

The real work is getting to the belt, not replacing it
.
When you get one set of marks (camshaft or crankshaft) to line up then look at the other set. It is right since the engine is working. Probably the crankshaft gear will have 2 teeth with lines cut in them, one line in the valley or a chip on a tooth. You can mark the unit also. Remember do not rotate the camshaft/crankshaft with the belt off. Keep them aligned with the marks.

Remove the serpentine belt using a 3/8" drive breaker bar or ratchet to release the tensioner.



Remove front timing belt cover
Remove splash guard under engine
Remove vibration damper guard
Remove ignition coil cover from top of engine

Note: the belt can be replaced without removal of the splash guard. The vibration damper guard can be removed from the top. It is held on by two 10mm bolts. One is toward the driver's side (about 4 o'clock if looking at damper) and the other one is toward the bottom (about 6 o'clock). You'll have to feel around for them, but you can get them with a ratcheting wrench. If you cannot feel them, they are visible from below with the splash pan removed



Turn the engine clockwise until the timing marks align as shown on the upper cover.
Remove upper timing cover


Removing timing belt:
Remove tensioner upper mounting bolt.
Undo lower mounting bolt.
Twist tensioner to free plunger.
Remove bolt.
Remove tensioner.

Note: If the timing belt hasn't been replaced, it is a good idea to replace it at this time. If the tensioner is leaking fluid, replacement is necessary. Even if you are not replacing it, it must be removed to compress the plunger for installation of the belt when finished. Be sure to make note of which side of the tensioner unit faces out.

Do NOT rotate the camshafts or crankshaft with timing belt removed. Engine damage will occur!

Spin the tensioner and idler pulleys. Replace if excessive bearing noise or grinding is heard.
Remove belt.




Install timing belt:
Place belt around crankshaft pulley and right-hand idler.
Place belt over camshaft pulleys.
Position belt around water pump and press over tensioner pulley.

If reusing the old tensioner, you must compress the plunger again. Make sure the hole in the plunger lines up with the hole in the body of the tensioner and place in a vice with the side that faces out pointing up. SLOWLY compress the plunger using the vice, stopping frequently to allow the hydraulic fluid to move. Once the hole in the plunger is even with the hole in the body, insert a nail, pick or similar through to hold the plunger in place. Make sure it is long enough to be grabbed and removed once tensioner is installed.

Install the tensioner, torquing mounting bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft lb)
Remove locking pin/nail/pick
Install upper timing cover and make sure timing marks still line up. Wait 5 minutes for tensioner to fully extend.
Rotate the engine by hand clockwise two full revolutions, making sure marks line up each time.
Reinstall covers and serpentine belt as shown:



Also, there is a mark on the crankshaft gear that should line up with a mark on the engine when the timing marks line up. I do not have a picture of it, but you should see what 'm talking about..

Actually replacing the water pump is quite simple. First, drain the coolant:


When the belt is off, remove the 7 bolts that hold the pump to the engine. Clean the gasket mating surface and install the new pump. Then continue with installing the timing belt.

You probably notice that it blows through the dash UNLESS you accelerate hard, then it's floor and defrost vents that gets the air. It's a ~$40 dual action bellow sort of up over the gas pedal that is malfunctioning. You can put a band-aid on it by removing the kick panel over the pedals and then plugging the yellow line going to the bellow. To replace it (per Volvo) you have to remove most of the dash! That's expensive and a pain in the behind, plus you probably will have rattles in the dash after. OR you can cut a hole in the air box where the baffle connects and replace it, then patch the hole with the 'lid' you cut out and duct tape it back on. Nobody will ever see it. :D

Secondary air injection system fault.

Did you check the fuse to the radio?

try replacing the bulb!

Speedometer Speed Sensor on diff housing