20 Most Recent 1998 Volvo S70 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I don't have a diagram. Here are the steps. 1) disconnect negative battery wire.. 2) remove serpentine belt 3) remove upper heater hose and thermostat housing; leave thermostat in place 4) remove plate from in front of the power steering pump, the lower bolt is one of three of the alternator bolts. 5) remove all 5 bolts from the PS pump bracket - 2 are by the thermostat housing. Remove the bracket. 6) move the PS pump off to the side out of your way. 7) Remove the long bolt from the alternator you can now see. There is one more alternator bolt at the top which will allow you to remove the idler pulley bracket with the serpentine tensioner. This idler bracket and the tensioner bracket are sizeable, so you have to understand the volume of stuff you are removing. 8) Unhook the alternator wire and with some patience, if you have any left, you can squeeze the alternator out. This procedure assumes you have the ability to do the serpentine belt removal and refitting, and you will need 12mm sockets/wrenches to do the rest. The t-stat housing uses the torx head screws, so you need that as well.

the temp gauge should be reading around the 1/2 way mark and the pressure is controlled by the radiator cap. Check the catalogue at you local spares shop and the cap recommended will hold the correct pressure for your car.

Get your car Scanned.

It is on the engine side of the Air Filter right on top of the filter housing hooked up to that big tube that goes to the Turbo Charger.

For left right you use and allen wrench on top of the light housing. Up and down is a knob on the back of the housing.

Scan it from the OBDII System to find out for sure or remove the Alternator and have it tested at your local Auto Parts Store.

Scan it for Codes! IPD has a Scanner for $80 at ipdusa.

You can try a Hard Reboot, remove the battery cables from the battery, wait 20 minutes then make contact with the + an - cables together for at least 10 seconds. Normally you would want to run a diagnostic on the new computer if it cam out of another car just to erase the codes from the other car.

You can order a new cylinder from Volvo if you give them your VIN# they can send you a cylinder keyed to your car.

It sounds like the memory's low voltage supply is cut off.

Are you getting coolant flow through the heater core? These cars have common problems with heater cores but they are easy to replace. IPD has a Video on U-Tube with step by step instructions. Also if you are in very cold weather have you checked your anti-freeze? I saw a Toyota last year freeze completely because of no anti-freeze. It took days to thaw out the heater core and they were lucky that the ice did not blow it apart. It took me hours of starting it and running up to a low temp and shutting it down to get it drivable.

Check for vacuum leaks. I will bet that you have a bad or leaking vacuum hose between the intake manifold or PCV System and the Evap. System.

Have your Cooling System pressure checked. Also check your oil and anti-freeze. If the oil is milky or the anti-freeze is oily you have a blown head gasket. Watch for white smoke (Steam) coming out of the tail pipe after it is warmed up. If you have white coming out that is coolant, black is fuel and blue is oil. After the pressure test if there are no leaks detected in the hoses then get a compression test to see which cylinder is leaking.

You can not check the timing with a timing light. IPD has a Code Reader that will give a running diagnostic that includes Timing for $80 search ipdusa.

First check your fuses and clean them and coat them with Dielectric grease, then try replacing the Relay if that does not fix it.

The Cam Relay will be at the Driver side end of the exhaust cam. You will need to remove the upper torque mount to get to it.

Remove and replace your door stop.

Any Hardware Store carries Torx Drivers. Harbor Freight is a good inexpensive source.

Check your Fuel Pressure.

Make sure the Gear Shift is all the way into Park. You may have to jiggle it.