1998 Volvo S70 - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Bad fan relay or fuse bad temperature sensor/sending unit

Depending on if you have a high pressure Turbo or not. The engine in my S70 T5 is a high pressure turbo 2.3 litre. Look on your driver side fender(under the hood) for the VIN Tag and it will tell you what engine is in your car.

If you get a check-engine light, but not immediately after clearing it, it sounds like it could be a vacuum issue. I have a slightly newer version of your engine in my car, so I don't recall exactly how yours looks, but there should be a hose at the top of your intake manifold. It's a little rubber hose held tight with a clamp and it snakes down between the intake runners towards the engine. Check that this hose isn't cracked. You might not see it as the crack might be on the bottom of the hose. The heat, age and that slight bend in the hose contributes to cracking, this gives you a small intake leak which is hard to see and find and only sets the light after so many driving cycles. The QUICK and dirty fix is to remove the clamp, pull the hose off that nipple on the manifold and cut the hose back past the crack, then stick it back on. That should cover you for the road trips. When you get home, get the proper sized fuel hose (or other hose impervious to most things) and replace it. While you do that, check other hoses around it to make sure they're not dried/cracked too. You may also want to do the "rubber glove test" to make sure your PCV and oil separator are in good shape. You're basically ensuring there's vacuum in the filler neck and dipstick tube. If there's pressure there, your PCV is plugged. A whole kit can be had at FCP Groton for.. $300ish. OH!! I almost forgot. Another reason for shudders when coming down to idle/stop is the throttle body. They get gummed up, particularly if you have a turbo. Oil and gunk builds up a bit at the throttle plate, so you remove it and use a clean rag and some carb cleaner to wipe off all the crud on and around the plate. I'd do this AFTER checking that hose though.

If I remember correctly, there are little notches in the plastic cover over the cams and they correspond to lines or dimples in the cam sprockets. You may need to use a wrench on the crank bolt to turn the engine over once OR TWICE to make the marks line up properly. Once you've found them, mark them with a dab of WhiteOut and you can easily see them next time. On the crank, there's a little tab or protrusion on the back of the crank sprocket that lines up with a mark on the block. ALso hard to see until you've seen it the first time, then it makes sense and you know what to look for next time.

You need to look under the hood, located the Broken/Missing Serpentine Belt. Repair the damage the belt did when it broke and put a new one in. The Alternator is not turning and that is causing No Power to get to the systems and more than likely, when it broke, it knocked some wires around.

there is no fuse its hard wired in such a way only the dealer has the instrument to fix it otherwise a thief could just pull the fuse and thats no anti theft at all the wires go thru the entire car too so you cant jus snip the lead

There should be a little notch on each cam gear that lines up with a notch on each side of the cam cover. Try looking at it from the side and rotating the engine with a large ratchet on the crank bolt (turn clockwise only). The timing marks will line up every TWO rotations. You'll see how the notch on intake and exhaust cam gears both line up with the notches on the plastic cover.

get your codes first.

get your injectors cleaned. change the air filter .change your plugs. put a fuel cleaner in your fuel tank.

Could be, but you will need to check for trouble codes, since the engine light came on. The code or codes may help you troubleshoot it.

Does the car throw a check engine code? If so, what is that code?This could also possibly be the ignition. My V70 had a bit of trouble on a couple of cold mornings. I replaced the ignition switch (located in the steering column on the opposite side of the key hole).Also check the fuel pressure and fuel filter. Could be a pump and filter problem. Fuel condenses at lower temperatures and if the pump is having issue pushing the thicker fuel through the filter, take a look at that to be an issue.Lastly, check the throttle and the fuel injectors. Run fuel system and injector cleaner like HEAT through the fuel tank to see if it helps.

You will need to check to see if the starter is being triggered with a test light. It should be hooked up to the small wire on the solenoid portion of the starter. If it lights up when you turn the ignition switch to the start position, it is the starter, if not, it could be several other things (ignition switch, neutral safety switch or wiring).

the temp gauge should be reading around the 1/2 way mark and the pressure is controlled by the radiator cap. Check the catalogue at you local spares shop and the cap recommended will hold the correct pressure for your car.

find a drive belt diagram make sure u pull tentioner right way while installing belt

My procedure (after spending 2 hours finding nothing but dead ends and 20 minutes after I figured out the procedure...). Also, found that having a second person is key to making things go smoother!1. Purchase a pair of quality struts with specifications for trunks with or without a spoiler on it. Trunks with a spoiler requires a heavier, beefier strut. Save yourself a headache and replace both struts while you are at it, no need to face this task 6 months later. Fluid leaking out of struts are a sure indication that you need new ones!2. Remove and save the old strut to compare it to the new struts you purchased. There are two accesses you'll need to position yourself in: 1. from the trunk and 2. from the back seat into a tight wheel well cavity that you can hardly get your hand into.3. From the back seat, pull down the backrest side cushion near the door on each side to access the cavity that has the rod end with the plastic clip inside it. The cushion pulls out when grabbing the top and pulling towards you. No need to manhandle this cushion and you only want to pull the top off and slant it sideways in order to get your hand inside this small cavity through the access hole. 4. Note that the plastic 'clip' end of the strut is attached to a permanent welded pin located inside the cavity. Using flat head screw driver, pry plastic clip off of welded pin inside the cavity.5. On trunk side of the strut, use a small flathead screw driver and insert under retaining clip to release the old strut from the permanent bulbous pin welded to the body. Note: You can check out your new strut and you'll see how the clip needs to be 'pried' off slightly to open the aperture where the bulbous/rounded pin head goes into and it would snap on.6. Now compare your old and new struts. Look closely at the two ends and compare the sizes. Particularly compare the 'plastic' "C" end clip at the end of the strut rod that has to 'snap' over the pin that is welded inside the cavity. Getting the plastic "C" end clip off is a ...'snap' but getting this back on and 'snap' in place is a potential project.7. For me, after comparing the old and the new ends, I had to file down the new plastic "C" end clip so it would look almost identical in size to the original one I took off and would be able to 'snap' back on over the welded clip inside the cavity. The other side of the strut that is installed from the trunk was just fine so I didn't have to do anything there.8. When trying to 'snap' the "C" end clip over the pin inside the cavity, I found that I couldn't get enough downward pressure on it to 'snap' it in place. So, I took someone's suggestion on the web to loop a 3/8" small rope over the end of the clip inside the cavity, draped the two ends of the rope outside the opening to the cavity and exerted 'downward' pressure on the rope pulling the clip against the pin which forced the "C" clip to 'snap' into place over the welded pin!! Slight filing (not too much) will get the end just right to snap over the pin and it's plastic which files off in seconds. Little at a time or else you find you just destroyed your strut! Note: prior to the rope trick, I tried every tool known to man to snap this clip in place inside the small cavity!!! For my big hands, there is just not enough room to get your hand in there to move around, never mind getting a tool in there as well! Once you look at this ridiculous setup, you'll know exactly what I mean! 9. Now the easy part. From the trunk, prepare the other end of the strut to install over the bulbous end of the permanent pin welded to the body by prying the retaining clip as previously mentioned. You'll see as you pry off the clip (but do NOT remove it completely) the opening on this end of the strut will permit it to slide easily over the pin. Best to have one person there to move the trunk up or down to align the pin to the end of the strut to line it up and slide it on.10. Bingo - slide it on, make sure you press the retaining clip back in place so it grabs the bulbous end of the pin and you're done! Like I said I spent 2 hours fiddling about and 20 minutes installing both struts once I got the filing of the end and rope trick down!Key to this project: compare the ends you are trying to snap and slide on (adjust/shave if necessary), get access from the back seat by pulling back the side backrest cushion to access the cavity and the old 'rope' trick to get downward pressure to 'snap' on the darn "C" clip inside the cavity!!Good luck - you can do it with only a screwdriver and piece of rope!

If you replace the o2 sensor and that is the problem of why the check engine light is on then yes it will reset on its own. this will take a few days of driving due to the computer running all its tests and all passing then light will shut off. the code you have is for a bad o2 sensor or wiring to it, there are a couple of o2 sensors, this code is for the rear o2 sensor.

I would guess that the fuel filter needs to be changed. Replacing it should fix it. Excellent cars.

-I never work on Volvo. But most car the fuel pressure regulatoris locate and connect to the fuel rail that connect to the injectors.-It's on top of the engine.MAI

I would Double Check, High/Low LEFT/RIGHT/BRAKES/ Everything...

To get a better look,get a flashlight and a mirror,auto part stores have mirrors with extensions,I have one,helps you see in odd places,another set of eyes.