20 Most Recent 1993 Honda Accord - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Need a scanner ,read the codes , do what the shop manual tells you to do regarding testing and repair.
Gonna take a guess cruse control and tach problems probably a wheel sensor possible the ecu.

park-tail-running. all others good there are huge number of park lamps on car on front, sides,, on dash and tail. if only the rear are out , did you check the bulbs and for trailer wiring hacks behind the lamps. and all fues and look for tail relay near the fuses. in box?

alldata.com old post but here is the answer to that and 10,0000 other questions.

Use honda fluid and punch hole in the screen found in the resouavior . Pull the fuel pump fuse so it won't start and run . Next remove return hose from pump plug nipple on the pump hold return line over a bucket. Have someone spin the motor over while you pour Honda power steering fluid in the pump. When the fluid comes out clean from the return line reattach and top off

odometer or speedometer? those are seperate. which one, the needle?> say so, the needle shakes, yes? then the speedo cable is bad. (or just kinked or rusty inside) if the cable is good, the speedo is bad. there are tests for both, got tools , got skills? ask.

is the speedo connected ??

this is called (dark current) phantom drains. its easy to find with tools, an ammeter. finds this in a jiffy. got a DMM? (dig., mulity meter) or walfart $10 meter? both work. is an all ways drain page. all ways to find it. ways and means...... http://www.fixkick.com/drain/drain.html there are 2 circuits in cars. hot all time and key power, IGN1/IGN2, and accessories the first thing id, do , is be sure key power is 0v, when key is in pocket FIRST !!! if not , fix THAT first (ask) if in fact they go dead, key off, good we move the the Hot at all times path. using any ammeter made ask how. if above is not clear. fixed 10k drains, in a life time, all things, you can imagine...even on ships.

ever do the 60k mile tune up yet?, id bet that be it. there are 50 causes. and 4 in physics and about 5 or so tests to find the cause, if not lacking of a tuneup. finding the cause costs 2-3 times more if troubleshooting a zero maintained car. zero tuneups. makes for hard labor. let see, bad spark, and low fuel pressure.....??

Using an ammeter, disconnect the battery and see what current is being drawn from it while the ignition is off. It shouldnt be too much. Is there a security alarm or a stuck central locking that may be functional

stuck or jammed, clean em.

stock car? or modified with remote start (bad) ever do a tune up this decade or every 60k miles>? you placed your hand on the starter casing>? the engine runs at up to 200F hot. and the starter is bolted to the engine and will go to about 150F, that is hot, and normal. in Alaska, less on starter, but same for coolant.(inside)_ it stall, stalls are complex but i can reduce it to a physics, answer. 1: engine lost compression or cant pump air (its an air pump) 2: lost spark (that tune up waiting. a voice calling , tune me up) 3: bad fueling, too much called flooding or starvation. 4: idle controls failed. why not start car and drive off, the engine will last 2 times longer.

which engine,there are many , state displacement and cylinder count. DID YOU OVERHEAT IT? this is covered in the FSM, get one. or use Alldata.com lots of steps. well over 100..... counting adjustements, etc..... i guess you never done a head job before? do not just replace it. (gasket) check for head AND engine deck warpage. ( a $2 tool , ) here is my wild guess, Except Accord V-6 The cylinder head temperature must be below 100F (38C); allow the engine to cool several hours if the car has been recently driven. Turn the crankshaft pulley so that the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
4. Label and remove the brake booster, PCV and charcoal canister vacuum hoses from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head or valve cover.
6. Relieve the fuel pressure using the proper procedure. Disconnect the fuel lines.
7. Disconnect the accelerator cable at the throttle body or carburetor. On automatic transaxle vehicles, also disconnect the throttle control cable.
8. Disconnect and tag all the wire harnesses and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head, intake manifold and throttle body/carburetor. Disconnect the spark plug wires, then position them aside.
9. Disconnect the upper radiator hose. Remove the heater hoses from the cylinder head.
10. If equipped, remove the cruise control actuator. Do not disconnect the cable; move the actuator out of the work area with the cable attached.
11. Remove accessory drive belts.
12. Disconnect the inlet hose from the power steering pump and plug the hose immediately to prevent fluid leakage. Remove the power steering pump from the cylinder head and position it aside.

When the power steering hose is disconnected, the fluid will flow out. Cover the alternator with a shop towel to prevent the fluid from leaking into it.

1. If the alternator is mounted to the cylinder head, remove it.
2. Remove the power steering and alternator brackets if they are mounted on the cylinder head.
3. Remove the distributor. Be sure to scribe a line relating the position of the distributor to the engine for easy installation.
4. If equipped, remove the cylinder sensor next to the distributor.
5. Remove the valve cover.
6. Remove the timing belt.

Do not crimp or bend the timing belt.

1. Remove the exhaust header pipe nuts and the header pipe bracket (if equipped). Pull the pipe away from the exhaust manifold.
2. If equipped, remove the EGR crossover and air suction pipes.
3. On Accords through 1989 and Preludes through 1991, the cylinder head can be removed with the intake and exhaust manifolds either still attached or removed. On other models, the manifolds should be removed first.
4. On some engines, it will be necessary to remove the camshaft holders, camshafts and rocker arms to access the cylinder head bolts. If so, refer to the proper procedures in this section.
5. Remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence (take notice of any bolt holes occupied by longer bolts). Failure to follow this procedure may cause the head to warp.
   1. On 1984-89 Accords and 1984-91 Preludes, work from the ends toward the center. Loosen each bolt about 1/2 turn each time and make several passes to release the tension evenly.
   2. On 1990-95 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes, follow the loosening sequence shown in the illustrations. Loosen each bolt about 1/3 turn each time. Repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.

Remove the cylinder head. The head may resist removal, even with the bolts out. Tap the edge of the head with a plastic or rubber mallet; lift the head straight up to remove it. Remove the cylinder head gasket and clean the mating surfaces. (do not use wire brush or metal scrapers on alum, heads) use a plastic scraper. then check for warping, (ask) If applicable, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head. (lol, is listed last, gotta love non FSM real online data) i post this to dissuade you, its not complete. there are many factors,checks and issues, TTY, and others..... graphics missing above, head sequence rules. on and off ! if the head was overheated, you need to get it pressure tested and warp checked. the top to reasons for new gaskets , put on to fail in first 10k milles is , not warp checked, pressure checked) or 2: surfaces were not good. (might need to be milled a tad) 3: not using new head bolts, some are TTY and if not ,should not be used 3 times.

well , all A/T tranny\'s are a concern, lots of part there.and like $3000 to fix a dead one.big concern.ever do the service on it, or ignore it...?if car is old, (it is) and no value to you,(many its not)then drive it like you stole it.or if is a value.? do the service.if the tranny slips the clutch plates or bands burn up. dont drive it if it slips. why not run the scan codes on the tranny to find out what failedall that is covered in the FSM, or at alldata.comid do a full flush on it, with filter... i do that every 50k, like religion.it\'s been said,1mil times. if the tranny was never serviced, and now you do the fresh ATF (full flush) will cause all that junk in it to break up and clogthe tiny spots and its the end zone.so , what is best is never known, due to that, folly.note how EPA says dont change AFT and now they all fail.funny that..... the endless story...... so scan the TCM for errors. as the FSM says,my be its just the TCC lock up failing and just a cheap relay bad.no scans, no joy.never ignore the light, its asking you to scan it and get the codesget them and post them.