1993 Honda Civic 4 Door - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

replace main relay.

check the spark plugs

Could be a neutral safety switch or sounds like even a "dead" spot in the starter motor itself, may be try tapping on the starter with a piece of wood or rubber mallet. Don't recommend a metal hammer to tap with may cause damage

IF you have changed the air intake system then you interfere with the air velocity that the sensor reads to judge how much air is required by the engine You will probably experiencing other problems as well such as poor fuel economy and lack of power at certain revs.. If you want to use the mods you have made you may have to have the chip reprogrammed

I'd first check the fuel filter since its the cheapest to see if it has some rust or water in it. Then check timing see if maybe skipped timing since that is free. Then if that not the issue might be something ignition wise. Check distributor cap rotor for burnt marks. I've heard changing ignition module has fixed some problems or ignition box. Good luck. hopefully something simple.

MY CIVIC HAD THIS PROBLEM IT WAS IN THE TAC RUBBER AND BABY OIL TO THE RUBBER AND CANGE THE ROLLORS ON THE TRAC ALL MINE HAD TO BE CHANGED AND CHECK THE PLASTIC ON THE BOTTON OF THE GLASS IF BROKEN U CAN BUY THEM AT NAPA

The map sensor measures engine vac. Can you tee the line on the sensor into a vac hose instead of mounting it ?

Check your timing. If VTECH isn't right or you didn't fully plug in your sensor, this can happen

The car needs good tune up.fuel filter.

My 1991 civic did the same thing and it Turned out to be a fuse under the hood. At the same time the door dinger would ding when I hit the brakes and I had no horn.

change spark plugs

most likely a bad distributor they go out on hondas all the time replace that and it should fix it pls give me an update if it works

Are you saying the engine is difficult to crank, or start ?If it cranks ok but takes a long time to start, the starter is not the problem. You would look at ignition or fuel.

Could be your slave cylinder again,sometimes they don't last long,had one only last 10 months,go check your clutch master cylinder's fluid,if out,then slave cylinder is bad and should show signs of leakage.Another thing it could be if slave cylinder is good,then check the clutch master cylinder.

well if you have the skills you can do it.measure the two extreme ends of the resistor only with the help of ohm meter if you do not find the value written which is usually mentioned like 10k ohms or 500 ohms like(ohms indicates like a horse shoe sign) you take out the variable resistor from the dimmer circuit and can get from electronic spares supplier. if not the you find the middle pin that rotates on the carbon take a small piece of wire soldier to this middle pin and connect to check on either ends with the resistor out. at one end it should be glowing full while at the other end will not glow.the resistor value should also be printed in the board if you need the value.hope this solves your problem.

First I suggest scanned the comuter car in order to know what fault codes was causing "check engine" lamp turn on.

I assume you are sure the cooling system is full of liquid and no air.My first guess would be the thermostat.

He is probably messing with the main relay its a grey box under the dash near the fuse box if you look up under the dash you will see it they are know for going bad if you tap it a couple of times while cranking the car and it starts then replace it they are not that expensive

fast idle thermo valve located by the throtle body with coolant hoses remove valve and adjust plastic washer its under a cover with 2 bolts good luck

Take it down to Auozone or a parts dealer have them run a check on it but i do beleive you have a thrttle posoition sensor going out