20 Most Recent 1994 Honda Accord - Page 2 Questions & Answers

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first clean off the tranny with a jetwash or similar give it a run to help determine the exact area it could be running down from above. ie. speedo transducer if its at the 2 housings join together then the only proper way is to strip it down and reseal the 2 castings using the correct sealant/gasket from memory the casings distort with heat from the torque convertor and gives your problem .good luck

Something is draining the battery. In my 94 Accord manual shift, it was the antenna motor and have to pull the plug at the antenna terminal in the rear. Then discovered that the battery posts was too loose and have to replace both positive and negative posts in order to get a real connection.

Does your vehicle have an anti-theft system? The symptoms you're describing may be due to a security system problem. it could also be a crankshaft position sensor.

Doesn't by opening the hood, that will disarm the alert system? Is it factory installed system? Try removing the fuse for the alarm system (near the system box - probably around the brake light switch). There must be a crossed wire somewhere.

Unfortunately your alternator is probably not good make sure that the connections on the alternator or Skype make sure the connection on the batterie are tight and clean but you may have just put in a rebuilt alternator that didn't get rebuilt correctly it's probably bad

Check clutch fluid, must be low. If not this, then do clutch adjustment.

Have a 95 Accord LX, 4 cyls. One of four spark plugs went bad and misfired. The gasoline was not always burned, ending up smelling like gasoline. Changed all four plugs and the engine is OK now.

The sway bar gives from side to side so I doubt your problem is in that. Of course it is really hard for me to pinpoint your problem without inspecting the vehicle, how hard did the vehicle hit the curb? If it hit it pretty hard and severely bent the lower control arm, I would suspect that you have some frame damage. You need to really inspect the frame where the lower control arm mounts, it may help to look at the other side and compare it to the damaged side. You'll be looking for slight wrinkles or bends in places near where the control arm mounts or follow back and keep looking for any signs of slight signs of damage. And, are we talking about the front, rear or both on the vehicle? If it's the rear, the rear is weaker than the front. Follow the frame rail all the way towards the middle and look for signs of damage. If you look closely, you should be able to find the damaged area. It being a '94 it doesn't take much damage for your insurance to total the vehicle out, (if you happen to have full coverage insurance and file it.) I hope this may help.

if the caliper is ok it sounds like the flexiable hose is restrcted by the metal crimps on the hose corroded and crushing the reinforced rubber hose restricting the fluid returning back in to the system. change the hose

I NEED THE STEREO CODE FOR 1994 HONDA ACCORD

sounds like a crank sensor ,but it could be the petrol pump`so i would advise you ask a local mechanic top have a look for you

No such thing as a single diagram for all the sensors. Read this post on wiring diagrams How to get car wiring diagram Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

Where did you buy the Alternator? It could be a defective unit. Chain auto parts stores have a poor record with rebuilds.

Any codes? any problem tune up, catalytic convener, burning oil.

check the vacuum actuator for the transmission check that the hose is in good condition run the fault codes

There is a fan sensor in the radiator. If the coolant level uncovers the sensor, the fans won't work properly. Your water loss is caused by the engine burning coolant. Look at the exhaust pipe to see if any water is dripping from the tail pipe with the engine running. Diagnosing the problem can be tricky. It can be a blown head gasket or a crack in a cylinder head or block.

The ecm receives a signal from the crankshaft position sensor and sends timing signals to the ignition control module, whick fires the coil. The problem can be the crank sensor or the control module. The crank sensor is inside the distributor. I have pasted a test procedure below to help you troubleshoot. 1994-95 ACCORD EXCEPT V-6 See Figures 8 and 9Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the inner cover.Disconnect the wires from the igniter.Check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter. Fig. Fig. 8: Terminal identification on engines without VTECCheck for voltage between the green wire ("BLU 2" on VTEC) and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the ignition coil and the green ("BLU 2" on VTEC) wire between the ignition coil and the igniter. Fig. Fig. 9: Terminal identification on VTEC enginesTurn the ignition switch OFF .Check the yellow/green wire between the engine control module and the igniter for continuity. Then check the BLU 1 wire between the tachometer and the igniter for continuity.If the wiring is OK and a problem still exists, the igniter is probably at fault. Vtec engine Non -vtec engine