20 Most Recent 1996 Honda Accord - Page 6 Questions & Answers

try replacing the fuse for the windshield wipers that may fix your problem.

It is in the gas tank.

Normally a fuel pump goes bad and 80% of the time and will not time and replacement is on the list

do 4 wheel alignment. Shouldn't be much more than 2 wheel. how new are your tires?

Typically I do 4 wheel alignment. Since my car daily drives at 'race-offsets' i normally run on junky-cheap tires.

unlock the doors with the remote fob. If you don't have one, try unlocking the drivers front door.

Anthony- There isn't enough information to give you a good answer. Installing a camshaft requires that you follow the valve-timing procedure, that you properly install the camshaft seal, and that you install the bolts in the proper sequence and set to the proper torque, usually in steps as described in the service manual. You would be best to use a service manual for the details. You can get an aftermarket service manual for your car at virtually any auto parts store or off the internet. As far as the stripped or damages "screw", it really depends on what you mean here. If it is one of the screws that holds the camshaft cover in place, it is probable not a big deal. If it is one of the camshaft bearing journal bolts - it is a big deal. In that case, it will depend on how it is damaged and how badly. If the threads are slightly damaged, running a tap (probably a bottoming tap) down the threads may be all you need. If the threads are stipped out, you may need to insert a heli-coil which might even require removing the head. I hope it is something simple and inexpensive. Setting the Camshaft (valve) timing is not terribly difficult, but it is very important that it be done correctly. If you do it wrong, you can destroy the engine next time you turn it over with the starter if the valves and pistons collide. I don't know whether you have an "interference" engine or not - you didn't say which engine you have, but almost all Honda engines are "interference" engines [meaning there is not room for the pistons to clear the valves if the valves are open at the wrong time] If you have never changed a timing belt or set the camshaft timing before on anything, get someone who has to help you or leave it to a professional mechanic. PS- Never change the timing belt without changing the water pump as well, and replacing the timing belt tensioner. These are easy to change when the timing belt is removed and it is a lot of work to change the timing belt. If the timing belt tensioner fails it is just as catastophic as a timing belt failure on an interference engine.

replace the fuel filter and see if that cures this, sounds like low fuel pressure under a load.

front bulbs are blown?

check the brake switch above the brake pedal, replace it is faulty

There could only be a couple possibilities for this to happen. First, with standard shift transmissions the shifter linkage could be worn being that it only happens with 3rd and 5th gears, as this shifter slide works for both of these gears. If this is the case it is only a matter of visually inspecting the linkage for worn or broken parts and replacing them or adjusting the linkage which is the inexpensive fix that I hope you are looking at. Second, This could be caused by the syncronizers within the transmission are going bad/worn or broken. In either case the transmission will need to be removed and repaired or replaced which is the expensive route that I pray is not the way you have to go! I hope that this is some help.

check that the crank position sensor is connected up. run the fault codes to check for other problem sensors.

First you must remove the A exhaust pipe that is under the oil pan. Make sure use a penetrating lube, like WD-40 on all exhaust nuts. If there is a lot of rust, you can remove the 3 or 4 manifold nuts, the 2 bolts for the bracket to the block, and unhook the exhaust hangers, and move the whole exhaust out of the way. Drain the oil, then remove the support brackets, then all the 10mm oil pan bolts and nuts. The oil pan can seem glued in place, pry it loose without bending it. Make sure you get any steel rings off from around the studs, they are part of the oil pan gasket, and tend to stick to the block.

In some of the older model cars the OBD was powered by the cigarette lighter fuse lead, Check this first. If that does' not work check your reader in a comparable vehicle and check to see if your reader is a Type 1 plug or Type 2. And if all else fails go to any Advance Auto parts and they will check it for you to see if your plug is reading!

If you have a bad CV joint, it is usually easier and cheaper to replace the axle half-shaft. loosen lug nuts Jack up car insert jack stand remove wheel. pry off wheel hub cover or tap it out by rotating brake disk and tapping outward with a punch (or even a screw driver). This will expose a large axle nut which will usually have a crimp lock. Look in the center for a part of the nut bent into a groove in the axle. tap it out so the nut can turn with a punch and hammer. The nut is on with a lot of torque. It can be removed by having a friend step on the brakes while you loosen it with a breaker bar and socket, or you can use an air-wrench to spin it off. loosen thew nut until it extends past the end of the axle threads and tap it with a mallot. (this will result in the axle coming loose and moving freely back and forth in the hub) remove the nut and the washer(s) taking notice of how they go back on. Now you have to determine if the axle can be compressed enough to come out of the hub without disassembling any of the suspension. Some can - most can't. Likely next step is to remove the safety cotter pin, and nut from the outer tie-rod end, then loosen it with a "pickle fork" and hammer or air-tool. (this will let the strut assembly swing out far enough to free the axle. On some cars the lower ball joint may have to be removed (this is usually a plate with three bolt/nuts. to get the axle shaft out of the hub. At this point you have an axle half-shaft loose from the hub, but still firmly attached to the transmission near the inner CV joint. Look carefully at the inner CV joint. Is there any sign of transmission oil/fluid around it? If so, plan on replacing the inner CV joint seal before you re-assemble. They are cheap, so it does not hurt to replace it anyway. You have to get something behind the inner CV joint housing and pop the half shaft out of the transmission. There is a spring-clip around the inner half-shaft splines. When you pop the shaft out, it compresses the spring clip and lets it pop out of the retaining groove it rides in. I usually try to get something like a piece of steel plumbing pipe against the back of the inner CV housing and them pop it good with a heavy hammer. One or two pops usually gets it to slide out, and then be prepared for a mess as transmission oil runs out the axle hole. Now you have removed the axle half-shaft. You can go further and remove/replace the CV joints on the axle, but it is seldom worth it. A new half-shaft with both CV joints and new boots already installed is usually about the same price as one CV joint and new boots, and they are a real pain and will take a lot of time and patience to replace. Reverse for installation. Pop new shaft into transmission (you can usually do this by hand with a good push. Re-insert into hub and leave loose. re-attach any suspension parts, torque to proper setting, and re-install new cotter pins (never reuse the old ones). Replace the washers over the axle Install the axle nut. **** Torque to specification - DO NOT GUESS. *** Use punch to lock nut into axle groove (new axle should come with new axle nut) Tap hub cover back on (a very thin coat of grease helps) re-install wheel and loosely tighten lug nuts. jack up car - remove jack stand and lower car. Torque lug nuts (this is also important - improper lug nut torque can lead to a warped disk brake hub or worse) Install hub cap if so equipped. Done. The axle half-shaft is held on one side by a large axle-nut and on the transmission side by a spring-clip that rides in a groove (it just pops in and out). The whole job can be done in an hour or so if you have the proper tools, but do not attempt this if you don't have a big socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar. A torqu wrench capable of reading up to 200 ft lbs and one that can accurately set the torque on any suspension pieces you need to loosen. If you don't need to loosen or remove any suspension you need not worry about alignment afterwards, and if you only need to loosen a tie rod end, you should still be fine as long as you don't change any of the "length adjusting" threads. If you do need to separate a tie-rod end you will need the tool for that (pickle fork and heavy hammer). If you have to remove or loosen any of the things that keep your wheels aligned you will need an alignment after you finish, but the job can usually be done while avoiding this. Autozone will loan you most of the tools you need if you don't have them. If you have never done this, I highly recommend you search You Tube for some videos and watch them first. This really is not hard.

The 96 Accord interior fuse box is under the dash, drivers side. Look for the small access panel with a thumb twist on it. Picture below:
Fuse location in box is #1 below:
Good luck.
Regards

Have you not retrieved your OBD Codes ? Googled them-- to see the possible problem Stop using any vehicle with flashing MIL Lamp on the dash May be a Class A --Converter ruining cylinder misifire

my car was doing the exact same thing and i spent about 18 hrs total trying to figure out. if you remove the oil filter, you will notice that the "bracket" that the oil filter attaches to is removable. remove the ENTIRE oil filter assembly. there is a bolt almost behind the crank pulley, its tricky to get to but you can get to it with a 1/4 in drive, swivel, and extension, i do believe it was a 10-12 mm socket (MUST BE ^POINT SHORT WELL) the top left bolt on the assembly you will notice that you can not get out. that is fine, take the rest of the bolts out and let the assembly hang from that bolt, BUT the bolt must me loosend all of the way to achive play in it. take a small screw driver and "break" the seal on the assembly. you will notice 2 holes. around those two holes is a single gasket. even the smallest crack will aloow oil to drip. my car was using about a gallon of oil every ten miles, so you can imagine how much oil i when through, replace the gasket. You can not get the rubber gasket ANYWHERE except a honda dealer. replace. put it together and you all set.

BASIC STEPS: RAISE PASSENGER SIDE.
REMOVE TIRE
REMOVE OIL FILTER
REMOVER ASSEMBLY
REMOVE GASKET
AND REPEAT BACKWARDS FOR INSTALLATION

P0753 HONDA - Shift Solenoid 'A' Circuit Fault Possible causes - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid - Faulty shift solenoid 'A' valve - Shift solenoid 'A' valve harness or connectors - Shift solenoid 'A' valve circuit is open or shorted

NGK 2262 I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

It is defect and should be replaced. But it also could be a relay or an electronic switch, not functioning 100%. Don't try this yourself, because you not only should have knowledge of electrics and electronics, you also should have skills to replace the defective part(s).