20 Most Recent 1997 Honda Accord Questions & Answers


There is most likely dirt debris and junk of all sorts from the life of the vehicle that is gathered up in the clean the gears and locking mechanism of a seat belt a good pair of cleaning behind the cover should solve your problem

1997 Honda... | Answered on Dec 18, 2019


Three things you may want to check out next in your problem diagnosis:

1. You may actually be getting power to the fuel pump through the functioning fuel pump relay and the good fuse, but the fuel pump itself may have failed - you can check by disconnecting the fuel pump electrical connector, and checking for battery voltage when the ignition key is turned to "Start".

2. The ignition switch itself may have failed, since it has been recalled on this vehicle. The recalled defect may have caused a failure of the switch to deliver power to the fuel pump at startup. Here's a list of all the recalls for the 1997 Accord:

Recall - Ignition Switch Replacement 02-031 09/24/2002
Recall 02V120000: Ignition Switch Defect NHTSA02V120000 05/01/2002
Recall 99V069000: Lower Ball Joint Replacement NHTSA99V069000 04/20/1999
Recall 98V231000: Air Conditioner Wire Harness Chafing NHTSA98V231000 09/18/1998
Campaign - Front Balancer Shaft Oil Seal Replacement 00-073 03/13/2001
Recall - A/C Wiring Harness Routing 98-072 10/13/1998

3. Testing the PGM-FI main relay is fairly involved (and not detailed in the information below). You may want to re-post your query asking for the testing & diagnosis procedure for this component alone.

Below find the 1997 Honda Accord manual entry for diagnosis & testing of the fuel pump electrical circuit.

TESTING

Fuel Pump Circuit

If you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, listen for the pump to operate by removing the fuel fill cap and checking to see if the pump can be heard running during the first two seconds after the ignition key is turned to the ON position. You should hear the fuel pump motor run.

If the fuel pump can be heard running, the fuel pump's electrical circuit is likely to be OK and the fuel pump operating pressure should be checked as outlined later in this section.

Once the engine has started, the fuel pump operation is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) via the PGM-FI Main Relay. The fuel pump receives its electrical power from the PGM-FI Main Relay, which is triggered for two seconds when the ignition switch is initially turned to the on position.

After the initial two-second startup signal is received, the PGM-FI Main Relay is controlled by the PCM. Because the fuel pump receives its power from the PGM-FI Main Relay, a problem with the ignition switch, PCM, or electrical wiring may not allow battery voltage to reach the pump.

To check the fuel pump wiring proceed as follows:

1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position.
2. Locate and detach the fuel pump electrical connector at the fuel tank.
3. You may have to remove the floor access panel. For specific details, see the fuel pump removal procedure in this section.
4. Fuel pump access is limited on some 1996-97 models of the Accord and may require you to work under the vehicle. Perform the following steps if that is the situation:

a. Raise the vehicle and safely support it on suitable jackstands.
b. Remove the protective cover from the fuel tank fuel hoses.

5. Detach the fuel pump electrical connector.
6. Connect a suitable Voltmeter between the fuel pump positive terminal of the electrical connector and a known good chassis ground.
7. Hold the electrical connector of the PGM-FI Main Relay so the wire side of the female terminals is visible and install a jumper wire between terminal Nos. 4 and 5.
8. When the ignition switch is turned ON , battery voltage should be present at the fuel pump electrical connector.
9. If the battery voltage is present, check the fuel pump's ground.
10. If the ground is "OK", check the fuel pump.
11. If battery voltage is not present, trace the wiring harness and check the cause for an open or shorted circuit.
12. If all wiring checks out, test the fuel pressure, as outlined later in this section.

Fuel Pump Pressure

The fuel pressure should be checked at the fuel rail or at the fuel feed line for the fuel rail. The fuel pressure is checked with the engine started, thus the fuel pressure gauge must not interrupt the flow of fuel to the fuel rail and the fuel injectors.

To attach a fuel pressure gauge to the pressurized fuel loop requires the use of an adapter that is capable of safely withstanding the fuel system fuel pressure.

WARNING
Checking the fuel system fuel pressure requires the use of an in-line fuel pressure gauge with the engine running. Do not perform this check if suitable test equipment and fuel fittings are not available. The fuel system operates under pressure, if any fuel leakage is noticed while performing this check STOP immediately and do not continue until the source of the leak is resolved. Do not perform this test near sources of heat, spark, or flames. This test must be performed in a well-ventilated area.


CAUTION
The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF . The fuel system pressure MUST BE relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

To check the fuel system pressure proceed as follows:

1. Remove the fuel filler cap and relieve the residual fuel pressure. For specific details, refer to the relieving fuel pressure coverage in this section.
2. Attach a suitable fuel pressure gauge to the fuel injection fuel loop as follows:

Models such as the 1998-00 Accord have a fuel pulsation dampener which must be removed in place of the banjo bolt for testing.

1996-97 Accord with 4-cylinder engines and 1996-00 Prelude: Remove the service/banjo bolt from the end of the fuel rail. Install the fuel pressure gauge using a suitable fitting to temporarily substitute for the banjo bolt or in place of the service bolt that will allow fuel to be supplied to the gauge and the fuel rail.

1996-97 Accord with V6 engines: Remove the banjo bolt from the fuel filter outlet and install the pressure gauge using a suitable fitting to temporarily substitute for the banjo bolt and supply fuel to the gauge and the fuel rail.

1998-00 Accord: Remove the fuel pulsation damper from the end of the fuel rail and install a suitable fuel pressure gauge in its place.

3. Remove and plug the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator located near the end of the fuel rail.
4. Start the engine and note the fuel pressure. With the pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and plugged, the fuel pressure should register as follows:

2.2L engines: 38-46 psi (260-310 kPa)

2.3L engines: 47-54 psi (320-370 kPa)

2.7L engines: 40-47 psi (270-320 kPa)

3.0L engines: 41-48 psi (280-330 kPa)

If the engine won't start, turn on the ignition switch ON, wait two seconds, then turn off the ignition switch OFF. Turn the ignition switch back ON again and read the fuel pressure.

5. If the fuel pressure is higher than specification check for a pinched or restricted fuel return hose or line.

6. If the fuel pressure is lower than the specification check for a damaged fuel pressure regulator, clogged fuel filter, fuel feed line or a leak in the fuel feed line. If the fuel pressure regulator, fuel feed lines, and fuel pump are OK, replace the fuel pump and fuel filter.

The fuel pressure regulator testing procedures are located later in this section.

Once the test is complete, perform the following:

7. Carefully remove the fuel pressure gauge and test fittings.
8. Install the removed fasteners using new sealing washers.
9. Install the fuel filler cap.
10. Start the engine and check for any fuel leaks, and repair as necessary.

1997 Honda... | Answered on Sep 09, 2019


Bad grounds cause weak dim lights and intermittent operation a positive circuit shorting to a metal ground causes shorts and blown fuses burnt connections. You need a wiring diagram for the circuit and need to trace the wires and look for a short. Or if there is no short in the wiring and this vehicle uses a module computer for the lighting the module could be faulty.

1997 Honda... | Answered on Oct 28, 2018


It is a known problem and the ignition switch was part of a recall. Lots of information here and a few fixes. Look at the video tab as well.

1997 Honda Accord 4 cylinder LX Google Search

1997 Honda... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018


bought second hand fob now being reprogramed

1997 Honda... | Answered on Sep 15, 2018


I went through this years ago myself. Try the method detailed below, but most likely you will have to pull out the radio for your year model.

BTW, You can get the instructions to remove the radio yourself. You can Google around online or get a Hayes or Chilton manual. Some libraries even have these for older vehicles or you could buy one for less than $20. I've done it. Also, check out the following.

FREE and EASY methods to get your Honda radio UNLOCK CODE. (Dealerships usually charge)

Assuming you don't have the Anti-Theft Code and Serial Number that is found on the credit card sized Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card that comes with the vehicle at the time of purchase and is usually found in the glove compartment....

You have FREE options to retrieve that code by phone or on the internet BUT, the RADIO SERIAL NUMBER is REQUIRED (no matter what). (see bottom about removing ERROR E3)

***IF your Honda was made BEFORE 2001 the serial number MAY not be accessible without removing the radio from the vehicle.***

* TO GET THE SERIAL NUMBER (so that you can get the unlock code)

1. Get something to write with and on (you'll need it to write down the serial number)
2. Put the ingnition key in and turn it until your able to turn your radio on (accessories position).
3. Then turn your radio OFF by it's knob/button (but leave the ingition key in place).
4. Hold down the preset buttons 1 and 6 at the same time.
5. Turn the radio on while pressing down both the 1 and 6 buttons.(***IF your Honda doesn't have preset buttons on the radio then hold down the top part of the 'Seek/Skip' button AND the top part of the 'Change Disk' button instead.*** )
6. Write down the 4 numbers you see first and then 4 more that display. These eight numbers are the SERIAL NUMBER. This is NOT your CODE.
7. Make sure your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is handy to get the unlock code. (can be found on your insurance card, driver's side door jam, small plate on dashboard by registration and inspection stickers, etc)

* TO GET THE UNLOCK CODE (using the radio Serial Number and VIN)

---Internet option:

1. Go to https://radio-navicode.honda.com/ (YES, it's run BY HONDA and IT'S FREE)
2. Follow on screen instructions (Serial Number and VIN required)
3. Type in the 5 digit code into your radio. This will unlock the radio and return it to a functional state.

-OR-

---Telephone option:

1. Call American Honda Customer Relations (800) 999-1009
2. When the automated message starts 'Press 3' for 'Radio and Navigation Codes'.
3. Tell the Customer Service Agent you need your radio code. (They will ask for your name, your radio's serial number, VIN, etc)
4. When they give you your radio unlock code--WRITE IT DOWN and KEEP IT SAFE!
5. Type in the 5 digit code into your radio. This will unlock the radio and return it to a functional state.

* REMOVING ERROR E3

****If you entered too many wrong codes and got an ERROR E3 message displaying you'll need to do an additional step for even the correct unlock code to work.****

Disconnect your negative battery terminal (or pull the radio fuse out if that's easier for you) for 30 seconds then reconnect it and then the radio will say "CODE" again and you can put in your correct unlock code.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So what happened to begin with?
See also: http://automobiles.honda.com/information/frequently-asked-questions.aspx?Question=2

If the power from your battery to the Honda radio is interrupted the Anti-Theft feature kicks in, the radio is rendered inoperable and the screen reads 'CODE'. You must enter in the Anti-Theft Radio Unlock Code (usually 5 digits) to make it operational again. You know that much by now.

1997 Honda... | Answered on May 24, 2018


you have to get to the settings of the radio to get to the code input and then you can put the code in....

One of the buttons should take you to it.

1997 Honda... | Answered on May 24, 2018


Make sure the broken mast is in the same state as the replacement mast (most likely fully retracted). There will probably be two connections on the unit, motor power and radio signal. Examine the latches on the motor power connector to see how the work; most likely you have to squeeze in a pair of plastic tabs while pulling on the connector (don't pull on the wires!) in order to unlock the connector.

Check the gasket around the antenna base. If it is hardened, and the replacement antenna does not have a good gasket with it, apply an automotive-grade body sealant or caulk to keep water from getting into the car body. (Many of those I've seen use a rubber base without a separate gasket; often this is hardened and will not seal without help once it's been removed.)

If the radio cable has a screw-on connector, put it on snugly finger tight. Cranking it on with a wrench may break the terminal inside (I've seen a number of TV tuners destroyed this way). However, most car antenna connections I've seen resemble over-sized phono plugs and jacks - push on and pull off. Often there is a protective sleeve or boot over the connector; you may have to pull it back along the cable first. Again, pull on the connector, not the cable. If that doesn't work, it may be a bayonet-style connector that you have to push in and rotate a quarter-turn counter-clockwise, then pull it off (I don't recall ever seeing that on an antenna, but it's mechanically possible).

1997 Honda... | Answered on Feb 26, 2018


Check the are four fuses left upper side (inside the engine), the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine

1997 Honda... | Answered on Jan 03, 2018


problem is in the hydraulic clutch system
low fluid indicates a leak at the slave cylinder and not holding pressure indicates a leak at the slave cylinder or in the clutch master cylinder
If the master cylinder and slave cylinder have not been replace in side 5 years ago , the have them replace by a specialist brake and clutch shop
at this point there is nothing wrong with the clutch proper

1997 Honda... | Answered on Nov 27, 2017


Sounds like a bad wheel hub. Or it could be just the brakes. Can you tell which corner it is coming from? Can you jack up that corner and spin the wheel? Wheel hub job about $400 brakes about $200 or less. Good luck

1997 Honda... | Answered on Oct 22, 2017


If it's fuse 36, it should have a 15 amp fuse.
Do not confuse this fuse with the radio backup fuse, which is 7.5 amps but runs a lot of other circuits.
Put in a 15 amp fuse.
If it burns, the lighter may have a short.
See diagrams at link below.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4576

1997 Honda... | Answered on Aug 12, 2017


could be the head gasket has gone take out spark plugs and check there condition and look for water in the piston, water and fuel dont burn well. as you have done an oil change it may have gotten into the oil but its harder to tell with new oil, as water will sit on the top of the oil.

1997 Honda... | Answered on Aug 09, 2017


Hi
Try to jump start the car.
Put the jump leads on and leave it for 10 mins
that will charge the battery up
then try and start.
Also check the starter motor.

1997 Honda... | Answered on Jul 19, 2017


their is no common spot need to look at all lines and components look at master then look and check all lines also check back of rims and floor for fluid stain or puddle then remove wheels and check components

1997 Honda... | Answered on Jul 06, 2017


Have you had the master cylinders replaced? Mine made this exact noise and they replaced the master cylinder.

1997 Honda... | Answered on Jun 11, 2017

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