Top 20 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it should, on the 4.0 they are all the aw4 tranny.

Check the alternator that might be your solution

try writing this in a language us aliens can read!!! I'm in the USA and proud of it!!!

Check...don't just replace the crank sensor (on bellhousing even with flywheel on drivers side harness goes up on that side near back of engine & master cyl. You should have no continuity between b&c terminals (show open circuit) If any connection at all its bad. (check with ohmeter)

Sounds like a possible alternator problem,will not carry voltage load,or a poor ground.

Well it could be many things, But have you relpaced the dist. cap and rotor, within the last 15,000 miles or wires and plugs??? next step is the coil ? then it gets fun. like timing. but I think most jeeps with a Inline 6 have a bullet proof engine for the most part. As we all know there is plenty of semi's on the road. well the same set up is there. as an Inline Jeep. I would have to say 90% of semi's on the road are inline 6 cyl. engines. and may of them go to 1million miles.
so plugs,wires, cap, rotor and ignition coil. that is a good starting point.

Yes you should add the recommended amount of oil - but are you sure the compressor or dryer is working properly?
Even with that much oil - it should still get somewhat cool.
Instead of vacuuming - you should clean the entire system.
If you dont have the equipment - you need it done at a garage. Too much oil can saturate the dryer, and plug the orifices.
Evacuating and refilling may just be wasting your time and $$ on refrigerant.

Thanks for using FixYa.

hey check the wires to your starter . it sound like its tripping a relay and when it cools off it starts again til it rubs on what ever. did you aleady check the wiring on the ignition coil plug? is it a newer jeep? the connectors on the cam sensor? try that please. still researching.

Did you check to see whether or not the bulbs need replaced? Although it would be weird to have all the rear lights blow at once unless it shorted out somehow. I would also check under the hood for a blown fuse in the relay box.

There are several reasons this can happen, the most common is that the crankshaft sensor has failed. This should give a code of 11. I recommend that you do a code check, in order to get an idea of what problems may be before doing anything else.
Code check: turn ignition key of and on twice, then the third time leave it in run position. check engine light will falsh. one flash pause, next flash(s), longer pause, then next set of falshes. If just crank sensor you will get firss code of 11, then next set will be 55 (end code)
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No diagram but here is how it goes: 1. around the power steering pulley (going ccw) 2.under the idler pulley 3. over the a/c compressor 4.around alternator 5.over top of fan pulley 6.arolund crank pulley 7. over water pump, returning to bottom of p/s pulley. Running, the water pump should turn ccw.

you need a new regulator and motor assy. this is not cheap.

Not at all. You can fix it yourself.

On the side of your transmission will be a switch with several wires coming out of it. This is your reverse switch that turns on your reverse lights and most likely needs to be replaced

Likely you did this already but check fuses in power distribution box near battery (likely two 60a fuses for alt in there). Additionally, was alternator regulator tested or was alt "full fielded" for test. (regulator failure will prevent power made at alt from reaching the battery). Also, check continuity of leads going to alternator to make sure they're OK.

you have a short some where that you need to find
trace the dome light wires and see what you can find

Sounds like the neatral safety switch on the transmission you'll probably have to look under the vehicle its normaly bolted on the transmission somwhere. If it is auto transmission or remote start that is for sure the problem. Somtimes a bit of crc can fix it but probably better replacing not that big job and not that expensive.

Driver's side.....under the dash to the left and a bit above the brake pedal....you'll find it

Check with a dealer and see if your vehicle uses a body or lighting control module...These usless items are being used more and more, and causing all anticipated problems excessive electronics can cause, when used for "updating" time-proven working systems by "engineers". Otherwise, check plug on harness to make sure that connectors are clean and not melted or burned.

You should be able to find one in just about any junkyard.