20 Most Recent 1995 Subaru Legacy - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Check transtar or wit(whatever it takes).

It's a bad solenoid. Reverse and low gears work off the same set of clutches. If you have first gears , then its a solenoid problem. I would first start by pulling plugs, transmission, TCM and everything in between. Check for corrosion, Use an ohm meter and check the wires for continuity. On some models the safety neutral switch/ range selector switch has a lot to do with how the transmission shifts. If the tcm can't read the switch it wont send power to the solenoid. so far I haven't found a place that will sell just solenoids. You have to buy the whole package. These start at about $200.00

replace switches,or pull out the switch and use a wire to hotwire them to get them down,also check the fuses

Try this:

subaru does not use such a switch. you have a simple no start condition begin by checking the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, this generation of legacy had issues with these sensors. After that go with the common items next, test the battery and starter for correct operation.

Plug 1 is always closest to the radiator. If anyone knows of an exception, please let me know.

maybe add a layer or 2 of masking tape to the plastic 'keeper' that snaps on the door? Or perhaps a replacement door from a junkyard car could be fitted? You could get 'creative' with Velcro or magnets too.

You might have an issue with your idle air control valve, it really depends on when your vehicle acts up. Does it happen only when the car is warmed up? Or does it happen all the time? Or only when it's cold out. I have seen a few spider nests in the tube/hose that runs from the top of the throttle body, down to just behind the power steering pump. It goes to a valve that has a purple connector. I would remove that hose first and check it for a blockage. No tools are needed for this check, the hose just pulls off with a little effort. I would start there at least. I hope this info helps!

sounds like your linkage may have disengaged and the trans is stuck in neutral. You need to get under car and check trans linkage.

It is a little black unit under the steering column.

Depends on what model and components you have:

{ ...
ENGINE TORQUE DISTRIBUTION – DIRECTING THE FLOW OF POWER
In an all-wheel-drive vehicle, engine power can be directed to all four wheels. Subaru Symmetrical AWD differs slightly from model to model in how it directs power to the wheels, depending on its transmission.

MODELS WITH FIVE-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION – CONTINUOUS ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: A viscous-type locking center differential and limited-slip rear differential help distribute torque – normally configured at a 50/50 split front to rear. If wheel speed differs between front and rear axles, the center and/or rear differentials lock up to help distribute power to the wheels with the most traction.

MODELS WITH FOUR-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS – ACTIVE ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: An electronically controlled variable transfer clutch and limited-slip rear differential distribute power to where traction is needed. Sensors monitor parameters such as wheel slippage, throttle position, and braking to help determine torque distribution and direct it to the wheels with optimum traction.

MODELS WITH FIVE-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – VARIABLE TORQUE DISTRIBUTION ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: As with Active All-Wheel Drive, an electronically controlled variable transfer clutch distributes power, but through a planetary-type center differential and a viscous-type limited-slip rear differential. Torque distribution is normally configured at a performance-oriented rear-wheel-biased 45/55 split front to rear. Sensors monitor the same parameters as for Active All-Wheel Drive.

WRX STI, WITH SIX-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION – DRIVER CONTROLLED CENTER DIFFERENTIAL (DCCD) ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: The STI uses an electronically managed multi-plate transfer clutch and a mechanical limited-slip differential in conjunction with a planetary-gear-type center differential to control power distribution between the front and rear wheels. Featuring manual and three automatic modes, DCCD is normally configured at a 41/59 split front to rear. Sensors monitor parameters such as wheel slippage, steering angle, throttle position, and braking to help determine torque distribution and direct it to the wheels with optimum traction. DCCD also features a limited-slip helical front and Torsen® rear differential. ... }

And what are the symptoms? How do you know the coupling to the rear is not working?

Try turning on the headlamps when it fails and see if they dim when you attempt to start it. If not, probably bad starter solenoid.

Check fuse is correct rating! Sounds like the current is too high!

Depends on what you mean by rough. Could be a cylinder misfire.They sometimes are not noticed as engine speed increases during driving or under light load as when idling in neutral but at idle under load as when stopped at a light in drive became noticable. Could also be running rich. The causes of either are too numurous to list.Consult a good mechanic who can actually see and hear the problem to put you on the right track.

Dear weelizw, Sat 02-21-2009 8:17pm EST (USA)

RE: 1995 Subura Legacy "Picture Diagram of Engine"

Try this site by clicking on the following link @ http://www.haynes.com/video.downloads

Get back if you need more help!
jack
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If it won't go all the way up or down, pull the door panel and move the stops on each end of the door glass. You'll see what I speak of once you get the door panel off.

If you're fuel gauge stopped working, this would not affect the fuel pump or pump relay. More then likely, the sending unit is at fault. You may check fuses to see if this vehicle has a fuse for the gauge. some do. The fuel pump has a relay under hood and also a 30 amp fuse.Has separate circuits for gauges.I would be looking at the sending unit.
Good Luck, Sinserely, shastalaker7

You will have to remove fuel tank to empty and clean

Hi Katherine, I'm glad to help! Oh my Lord, where do I start. NOTE: These are only possible causes that happen ever day. (1) It could be the material inside the muffler and cat converter that is broken up and what happens is while your driving down the road sometimes the material causes a restriction and the back pressure causes the engine to lose power and run bad. Then after turning the engine off and setting a while the material falls down and then it runs fine the next time you use the vehicle. (2) The fuel pump relay or auto-shut-down relay could be bad or could have wiring issues and at times causes the engine to run bad. (3) I call this one junk in the trunk. Because you may have debris in the gas tank that sometimes is pulled up into the fuel filter and causes the pump pressure to be to low to run the engine properly. (4) The Spark Plug Wires could be breaking down (Arcing on the engine) causing misfires which will cause it to run bad. Katherine this is just a few possibilities that may help you or lead you in the right direction and all of these can be checked without a scan tool. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Katherine.

Try boosting it If it starts with a boost your battery is bad or needs recharging.