20 Most Recent 1992 Honda Accord - Page 7 Questions & Answers

no it works from your brake light switch

blower motor resistor

you have a short circuit along the wiring... good luck trying to trace where that wire with worn out sheathing ~ usually at pinch points

Chevk for vaccuum leaks .. I had same issue

firstly check that the washer motor is operating, if thats ok, disconnect the hose from one of the washer jets and operate the motr, if fluid sprays from the pipe its the jets blocked, if no fluid when motor operated, take washer bottle out and remove pump, you will probably find the filter on the pump inlet blocked, clean and reassemble

Try this: Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.

• Check the battery the simple way, like this:

Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.

• Check the starter and solenoid:

If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking). If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck. Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.

• Make a simple test of the alternator:

If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.

The suggested solutions here from Bob and r2fast4u170 are good to try in your situation

Was the first step replacing the motor? If yes ,, I would check the fuse next as it would have been my first step.

Brake light switch, located by the brake pedal, has gone bad. Replace it.

First check brake light fuse if ok Go to the brake light switch Witch is switched on or off by the brake pedal .With a trouble light check there is power on both terminals with the pedal depressed if not replace switch, if ok you have a open circuit from the switch to stop lights.

1992 honda accord ex 4door the brakelamp indicator light on the dash is always on and my rear brake lights stay on even when the car is turned off

check all ABS sensors

This procedure usually works:

• Check the battery cable connections:

Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.

• Check the battery the simple way, like this:

Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.

• Check the starter and solenoid:

If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking). If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck. Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.

• Make a simple test of the alternator:

If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.

Had the same issue with my 92 accord.. Try replacing the Main Relay, thats what was causing mine... It is located under the dash on the Drivers side behind the cruise control box... Here is a link that may be helpful.
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelaydefine.htm
Good luck!

You need a repair manual, no manual? Try MFG website or email their customer service, or try manualslib.com or buy from your favorite auto parts store. The codes should be included in the repair manual and give an indication of what needs repair.

sounds like u have a neutral safety switch issue its located on the brake pedal try un plugging it and take a bread tie and jump the two wires across then try to start it if that dont do it try the crank position sensor it sounds like a fire problem

First I would check the battery cables and make sure they are tight. After checking at the battery side attachment follow the cables to where they attach on the other end. Make sure they are tight there. Be sure to check the battery cable attachment at the alternator too. Look for broken strands of wire or green corrosion at all the connections. If you do find a cable issue and need to replace,clean or tighten it. Make sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery first.

If the battery was dead/charged/replaced the vehicle may have to go through an idle relearn procedure. Get it running and try to keep it running by feathering gas pedal until it reaches operating temp. Ideally you want to be able to take it for a drive for the Honda PGM system to relearn

Hi Christopher: I'd be checking to make sure that the grounds are nice and clean and working properly. When you step on the brake pedal you are activating a switch that sends power to the brake lights. The brake lights share bulbs with the signals and emergency flashers, so it is also possible that a dead short in any of those components could "steal" the power from the ignition. At this point, it's a trouble shoot game for you to figure out what is working, and what is not. That's part of the fun. Enjoy.

its not that difficult BUT ,providing that you have a good tool kit with a nice 3/8th socket set with extra extension bars then not a problem.These metal tubes are a pain for corroding ,mainly caused by not using 50% antifreeze all year round