20 Most Recent 1993 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 8 Questions & Answers

look for timing marks????
Align groove of crankshaft timing pulley with mark on oil pump.
Align the marks on the camshaft timing pulleys with the corresponding dots on the front plate. (i can email pic if needed)
When timing marks are aligned, no pistons will be on T.D.C.
install timing belt. Align the dotted alignment mark on the timing belt with the mark on the crankshaft gear.
For correct belt installation, the letters the belt must be able to be read as viewed from the front of the vehicle. It is recommended for easy installation that the belt be secured with double clips after it is installed to each pulley. Align the alignment mark (white line) on the timing belt with the alignment mark on the RH bank camshaft timing pulley (on the left side as viewed from the front of the vehicle Secure the belt with a double clip.
Align the alignment mark (white line) on the timing belt with the alignment mark on the RH bank camshaft timing pulley (on the left side as viewed from the front of the vehicle Secure the belt with a double clip.
Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to remove the belt slack between the crankshaft timing pulley and the RH bank camshaft timing pulley.
Install the belt on the water pump pulley. Remove double clips from pulleys. Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise by two turns. Measure the rod protrusion to ensure it is within the standard. Standard 4-6 mm (0.16-0.24 in)


13) If out of standard, remove pusher, loosen adjusting bolt, and readjust. (Repeat from step 11). Tighten adjusting bolt to the specified torque. Torque 42 N-m (31 lb-ft)

1. Pusher

• Tighten bolt to the specified torque.

Torque 19 N-m (19 lb-ft)

1. Timing belt cover

• Remove crankshaft pulley that was installed in step 9.
• Tighten bolts to the specified torque.

Torque 17 N-m (12 lb-ft)

1. Oil cooler hose

• Tighten oil cooler hose bracket bolts to the specified torque.

Torque 22 N-m (16 lb-ft)

1. Crankshaft pulley assembly

• Using special tool J-8614-01, hold the crankshaft pulley.
• Tighten center bolt to the specified torque.

Torque 167 N-m (123 lb-ft)

1. Crankshaft pulley; P/S belt

• Tighten fixing bolt to the specified torque.

Install the belt on the idler pulley.

There is no clutch or you have no hydraulic fluid for your clutch and will need to be refill the clutch master cylinder and repair where the leak is coming from. Good luck and hope you get your Rodeo running again soon.

Be more specific as to what problem you have and what is happening or not. Your description is meaningless, if you want help , then help us by giving full descriptive information

Tip. Always take a picture of drum brakes before you take apart. Even if you have a manual. Check the other side or a similar vehicle

you can go to google, put in the make and year of veichle and problem, should give a lot of sites to where you can find that info, you may go to fords website and find it too

what need to know? 2wd or 4wd and what motor, if need diagram need email address to send to

Bring it to your mechanic this is not easy you need to take the wheel off
unbolt the axle if you can get the axle out without taking off the ball joints than do so but usually you will need a big set of tools and special puller for the idler arm. Make sure you disconnect the abs sensor or wire going to your brakes take center bolt out of center of rotor take ball joint nuts off.You need a ball joint seperater.Only use on junk ball joints.
Pull rotor assembly and caliper braket and rotor off in one peice be carefull not to break the brake lines to the caliper.If you are going to attempt this it can lead to serious bodily injury it should be done by a mechanic.After this is done unbolt cv axle from axle transfer case/transmition.The ball joints need a press and may need to be heated to get out of control arm.Bring it to a mechanic or met a nice guy that will do it cheep

Thermostat! or blockedf heater matrix, no idea where the thermostat is on that car never worked on one.

hope this helps

the best thing to do is go to the library+check out a
chilton/moter/mitchells or haynes repair manual any
of these books will give you the step by steps +diagrams you need for this job.
also you can go to any auto parts store and pu a copy of the haynes repair manual specific to your car
cost about $10.00 but it should give you all the info
you need for this job + many others that may come up in the future hope this helps good luck

just replace the airflow meter.That supose to be changed every 60 to 70 thousand miles.If its faulty then it will do what you are saying.let me know anyway pippall.

Go to www.haynes.com they have a manual for that vehicle for $24.95.

2.6L 4-cyl Engine: 9.5 quarts
3.1L 6-cyl Engine: 12 quarts

The specs.Are the m8 bolts 15 ft.lbs and the m11 bolts 47 ft.lbs.note:The m11 bolts cannot be reused and no oil on threads.

Check the fuel filter. It may be clogged up.

Don't know what size motor you have because you didn't post it so please pick the proper one:

This is for the 4 cylinder motor--


4-cylinder engine starter connections

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
   
3. If equipped, it may be necessary to disconnect and remove the EGR pipe to access all the starter bolts.
   
4. Tag and disconnect the starter battery and control wiring at the starter.
   
5. If equipped, remove the starter bracket and/or heat shield.
   
6. Remove the starter-to-engine bolts.
   
7. Move the starter away from the engine and down to remove from the vehicle. Some starter may be installed with shims between the starter and engine. When the starter is removed, these shims may fall out. Do not loose them.
   

To install:

1. Install the starter and shims, if equipped to the engine. Align the mounting bolt holes and insert the bolts. Hand-tighten the bolts.
   
2. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to 30–34 ft. lbs. (39–44 Nm).
   
3. Install the starter bracket and/or heat shield, if equipped.
   
4. Connect the battery and starter control electrical wires to the starter.
   
5. If the EGR pipe was removed, install it.
   
6. Lower the vehicle.
   
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
   
8. Start the vehicle to make sure the starter functions correctly.
   

This is for the V6 motor--


6-cylinder engine starter installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
   
3. Label and disconnect the battery and starter control wires from the starter.
   
4. If equipped, remove the starter bracket and/or heat shield.
   
5. Remove the starter-to-engine mounting bolts.
   
6. Lower the starter from the engine. If any shims are present, keep them for reinstallation purposes.
   

To install:

1. Install the starter and shims, if equipped, to the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to 30–34 ft. lbs. (39–44 Nm).
   
2. Install the starter bracket and/or heat shield, if equipped.
   
3. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the starter.
   
4. Lower the vehicle.
   
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
   
6. Start the vehicle to make sure the starter functions correctly.
   

Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: Transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the under-hood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.

No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter : ShiftA solenoid failed. Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it's moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

Good luck and keep me posted, there are other things but these things mentioned seam like what you described.