20 Most Recent 1993 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Attain a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum pressure at the intake manifold, it should reading steady needle at 18 lbs. of vacuum if not there is a vacuum leaking, if it reads 18 and the needle is shaking it may be a valve issue, most vacuum gauges come with a chart that shows the diagnostic procedures for use with vacuum gauges they are an invaluable tool for mechanical diagnosis and they can also tell you if your timing is off.

If you do in fact have compression (air) blowing in to the cooling systems this would show either a blown head gasket, warped head or cracked head. Please od not run the Rodeo until repaired as if coolant is getting in to the cylinder or oil (Your oil will look like chocolate shake) it can do severe damage. What motor please 3.0 V6?
THanks,
Tom

Before you put transmission fluid in, make sure it needs it. Check the transmission fluid with vehicle warm, engine running, emergency brake set and transmission in neutral. Pull the dipstick and wipe it off. Insert the dipstick back into the dipstick tube completely and then pull it back out. The fluid level should be between the two marks on the bottom of the dipstick. If it needs fluid pour the fluid into the dipstick tube (using a funnel). Only add about 1/2 quart of fluid at a time before you recheck it. Do not over fill the fluid.

Walmart sells a good selection of adapters

Yes its down by the bell housing. Yes it could very well be leaking there. Might be worn seals on the actuator as well. Easy to replace at least. Are you feeling a sloppy pedal or limited travel on the clutch?

we had the same problem on my 97 rodeo and thought the same thing but it so happens that there is a water tube that runs under the intake and has an o ring that over time gets hot and ends up dry rotting. which causes it to leak you wont be able to tell unless you remove the intake manifold and see. i had water filling up and running over the back of the motor which cause us to thing is was a freeze plug but in return it was a lot less work. though you might start here before you pull your tranny

you have a hydralic clutch system that means it work`s off of fluid pressure. check for leak`s. or maybe just add more fluid

U/S light = UP/Shift i want to disable this light

That ticking your hearing is most likely a valve lifter or tappet that is dirty or failing.At low RPM the oil pressure is lower, as you increase the engine speed the oil pressure rises; with this the lifter sees more oil pressure too and it fills fully with oil thus the ticking stops. You may be able to fluch the oil system in hopes of cleaning out any debris; my gut says the lifter is beginning to fail and should be replaced. If you have the ability and tools this is something you can do in your garage; pick up a manual and review the procedure before tearing into the engine.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Not too difficult of a repair. While is have not worked directly with the engine you need to start first by disconnecting the ground to the battery. From here examine your engine bay for what items you'll have to remove or move to gain access to the cover(s). I expect you may have to remove the alternator, spark plug wires, other electrical connectors and perhaps the plenum and throttle body. Take your time to note what goes where, take digital photos, make a sketch or whatever to assist you in getting in back together properly. Use a torque wrench (aluminum will strip easily) be certain not to over tighten the valve covers, too tight and you can deform them. Take your time, keep it neat and enjoy the process.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Should be a right hand thread . Only left hand threads I have come across are Honda's and some Mitsubishi's.
It will be very tight!
Hope this helps
Good Luck

their is a small button to press in on the side of the switch which holds it in the barrel. Press it in with a small screw driver but the button will only press in when the key is in the ignition. Just hold it in while pulling out the old switch from the barrel same procedure to replace.

Bleed your cooling system. You have a air pockets in your system. Don't forget to run your heater full blast when doing so. Usually help to unplug your heater hose and flush out the heater core then work on getting it filled and getting all the air out of your system.

Hi Dano,

For installing the tacho on a vr there should be a single wire not pluged into anything, on your wire loom under the bonet on the LHS, this is the wire you need..

Please let us know if that was helpful enough.

Thanks

Shiv.

sounds like a operating problem ,cable if it has one or a hydraulic cylinder if it hydraulic

you have to keep trying and DON"T quit.been there doe that.

supply to switch,switched supply ,and starter motor ,with the posibility of an aux for teh radio

If hydraulic actuated mechanism, loss of fluid, defective master cylinder or slave cylinder at the clutch. Missing pin or other part between slave cylinder and clutch arm. Loose or broken slave cylinder mounting. Missing pin or broken part between pedal and master cylinder. If mechanical linkage, look for broken components or missing pins at moving joints. If you tried to shift into gear with engine running, you may have damaged the transmission gears.