2002 Land Rover Discovery Series II - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi,

Hi Chamer,

Could be sticking exhaust valves. This sounds like like what you describe and it does rob you of power without generating lots of heat. For Series II Disco's, this is a common problem and requires a valve job to repair. Also can return after every 50,000 miles, depending on how you drive, where you drive and what fuel you purchase. Use the highest Octane you can find (94 at Sunoco). Better for your Disco and the environment too!

Regarding brake work, I use Raybestos on my Series I. No complaints. The series II has wider rotors (lucky you) so you'll have to see if Raybestos carries them. Vented rotors are better - allowing to cool down faster and better stopping ability. If money was a concern, do the brakes yourself! A valve job will run you about $2000US and a complete brake job (at the dealer) will probably be the same. $4000 is too much for me to handle in one bite!

If you do the brakes yourself, expect the following approximate costs: pads $100(fr&bk); rotors $100 each, $15 brake fluid (perform a complete flush); plus your time (0$).

Check around online for the best prices and locations. There are ways of saving and this is one of website I use often:

(http://www.greatautoparts.com)

I found vented rotors for your Disco for $69. Far less than the $300 from your dealer.

Hope i helped.

Thanks.

I'm guessing that the gearbox speed sensor was damaged in the shunt, this can happen if the gearbox was in park when it happened - causes internal damage to quite a lot of components. The speed sensor tells the gearbox the speed of the input shaft and the transmission control computer then signals the gearbox to change gear accordingly. If this is damaged it could account for the symptoms. Suggest taking to a LR dealer for diagnosis, they should pick up any sensor faults with their plug in diagnosis tools. Whilst it will cost a bit, it will save you a lot of component changing and there are a lot of components to change on a Disco!

take them out and clean the gears and track should work fine.

most likely the bag is leaking or the connection is leaking use windex or soapy water when it is aired up and see if it bubbles, replace as needed parts

check the idle control.

Hi..my name is Keith..and to answer your question..No..it will not pass the emissions..it will probably pass the test..but they will fail your car because the light is on..so i would go to an autoparts store..and they can clear the check engine light for you for free..and then take it to the inspection station..i hope this has helped

I had a problem with your chat this morning so I am going to answer for you here. You stated that the car runs for ten minutes then quits and will not restart, if you can the first thing I woulddo is take itto a partsstore who rents out a pressure tester and pressuer text your fuel pump, disconnect the rubber hose on the fuel regulater and turn the ingtion switch to the run poastion for two seconds and watch the gauge. The pressure should read 60 PSI if not there is something wrong withthe fuel pump and if it reaches 50 PSI it should hold pressure to 30 psi FOR ONE FULL MINUTE, if it does not then replace the pump, if it holds pressure then remove the fuel pump and replace the fuel sock and fuel filter. let me know if this helps I will be watching for posts on this to contine to troubleshoot this for you.

turn ign on press acc pedal 12 times, management will come on leave untill light goes out .this means the car in self bleed mode

This may be your wiper switch on your steering column very common problem.

It sounds lilke the wipers are just going through the "park routine": one swipe and stop.

The melted part is the end of a wiring harness. But replacing this will not solve the problem. It sounds like you have a bad wiper motor which is pulling too much current and overheating.

There are switches on the wiper motor which probably have burned out and the only one left working is the park switch.

This site has both the wiring diagrams for your Land Rover and the Alpine. Good Luck!

http://carstereohelp.net/wireharness_LandRover3.htm

could be faulty plugs, wire, idle sensor or fuel filter. on board diagnostics may give you a code. haynes manuels can give you instructions on OBD.

check transmisson fluid levels,sounds a bit low.please let us know if this solved your problem.adrian

My 2001 TD5 discovery has the same problem and this started in the last 18 months.
Normaly the car is parked in a locked garage, and the car is not locked.
The alarm does not go off during the day when parked anywhere even when parked for long periods.

When we are away camping in the bush or caravan parks, if I think of it I remove the "horn fuse" under the bonnet at night and replace this in the morning, if I dont do this the alarm does not go off every night, but I rather do this, than me and everyone at the camp site being woken up at 0300 hr'
Maybe it is the night temperature, ??

I hope this is of some help. John L.L

Sounds like the fuel filter is dirty and needing to be changed. It's cheap and easy to swap out.

http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/engine/v8-46e.pdf

18436572 just like a chevy...1357 cylinders on drivers side ...2468 on passenger

check fuse, relay, seat ecu.

need to change a new pump.

could be the steering damper.... need more info like, steering vibration or the whole car shake?

probable mente el codigo este anotado en el radio pero necesitas sacarlo