20 Most Recent 2001 Saab 9-3 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi

I am assuming you mean the electric roof? I would firstly recomend you not use it in cold weather as they often seize up. the electric roof works by a combined electric motor and hydrolics, the fluid will coagulate or clog in the cold and this often upsets the motor for the roof, it may nopw need bleeding through to remove any clogs, also it could simply be low on fluid or the fluid is not moving through the system easily enough, you can bleed them yourself but I would advise paying a garge the small sum to do it for you. do not try to force the roof at all as this may cause major damage.

I hope this helps. if not get back to me and I will try again

Regards

Dan

It means you need oil or there is a problem with your oil pump. I suggest you get this looked at as soon as you can. Don't continue to drive it until this is resolved.

Thanks for your visit today.

sorry to say but there is nothing i can help with here u have to scan the car

That happened to me once. It is a blown fuse. All you need to do is replace the fuse (the panel is in the driver side door).

It is spelled out in your owners manual. On the steering wheel is the up and down buttons, press that until the display reads 'settings' then hold the set button it will beep, then scroll till is says time for intermediate,press again and it wil say cleared.You'll be good for another 10K

set up a bench with padding to support the weight of the door while the hinge pins are removed. Note that this bench is the right height only because the car was lifted up on jack stands for other repairs. Ordinarily something shorter would be needed.applied a couple of rows of blue masking tape along the edges of the fender and door. applied a layer of duct tape over the masking tape.

Duct tape provides a degree of cushioning and scratch protection, while the masking tape peels off easily. Duct tape used alone will often leave glue residue. used a prybar to pry out the door detent spring. (Also called the "hold open" spring.) Removing the spring...Using a punch and a hammer, drove the lower hinge pin upwards. Once the pin had been pushed through the first pair of hinge legs, the weight of the door pinched the pinTo completely remove the hinge pin, grabbed it with a pair of Vise-Grips and hammered on the pliers. Then the pin came right out. The top hinge pin has the head on the bottom, so it needed to be pounded downward with a hammer and punch.With the pins removed, the door could be pulled away from the body, just a bit.
At this point that masking tape and duct tape acted as insurance to prevent the loose door from scratching the fender.

petrol or diesel engine

From what you are describing i feel you might be having an bad EGR valve..It only causes the rough idle and shaking and fuel smell in exhaust..It can also cause back firing. Does it happen? Also do you hear any popping noise from exhaust?

hi sue from the boot side behind the carpet  

check your fuse panel to see if its a fuse problem.

Usually sensors don't make any noise, but if this one is making noise, it's a replacement job.
locate the noisy cabin temp sensor and unfasten and unplug it from the harness and install the new one.

if the heater controle is manual its more than likely come off the other end in the dash, remove the switch and see if the arm behind it is loose, on 900ds we used to remove the top speaker to get in there on 93's i think you can remove the front of the dash to see however iv not done it on my 93aero as its done with buttons, hope this helps

clean abs sensors in the hub and see then, or just slow down and dont brake so hard :) are the pads ok?

Just because the overflow reservior is full does not mean that the rest of the cooling system is also full. The engine itself is very low on coolant and running hot as indicated by the temperature guage showing hot and the cooling fans running continuously. You obviously have a leak in the cooling system caused by either a faulty hose or radiator which is leaking once the system pressure increases as the engine heats up.. The rubber hoses in the cooling system can go hard and start to leak where they attach to the metal piping around the engine as they get towards 10 years old. Thoroughly check all hoses including heater hoses and the smaller bypass hoses around the engine for splits or leaks. Stop engine and allow to cool, replace any defective hoses or hose clamps and then refill radiator. Restart engine with radiator cap off and idle engine with heater control on full until it reackes operating temperature while continuing to add coolant until the system is full once again. Allow the cooling fans to cycle on and off a few times to ensure there are no air locks in the system. .Hopefully you have not overheated the engine to the point where you have caused a problems with the head gasket which could allow coolant to leak into the sump. This will be indicated by the dipstick showing a milky emulsion instead of just oil on it. If the haad gasket has failed, it will necesitate removal of the haed, have it machined, and then replaced with a new gasket. Not a cheap exercise.

It's been a while since you posted, so I hope you resolved the search. facing the engine, it's to your Left. Black box with a ribbed pipe coming out if it. You'll be looking at the lid/top. Several clasps hold the lid on. Best filter seems to be a K

Try checkin all vaccuum lines for leaks, cracks, holes, and disconnections. How is your acceleration? If vaccuum lines are not sealed right, it could cuase degradation in acceleration, too. If all nies seem to be OK, you could try shooting a bit of carb cleaner down the manifold throat. If none of these above works, I'd find a good independent service shop to pull codes on their TECH II (alternatively, Autozone can do it for free, I hear).

Hope this helps some.
Keep Saabin'!

(PC froze, and now re-typing - sorry if it double posts)

Try this (one of many troubleshoots)

Face the Trunk & open
Peel back the weatherstrip on the top right corner (let it hang) of the opening
Peel down the gray carpet material.
Expose the top motor rod (golden colored)
Look near the joint, and you'll find a sleeve that connects to the rod that is fixed with a pin (black ish).
If this pin is missing and you see a small hole (about 1/8" dia), you're in luck. The fix is easy as the pin simply fell out.
Look in the top-cover compartment boot or the trunk floor.
Tap the pin back in with a small hammer - but note that this pin is tapered, so don't force it. If it doesn't wantto go in one way, try flippng the pin over, or try the opposite side (the taper is ever so slight).

A tip...
If the top bow starts to hit the erect boot lid, it's time to go back there to re-tap it in. I usually end up re-tapping it in 3-5 tmes a year. The pin wears, so R&R with a new pin would be best. Pretty cheap part at the local Saab independent shop. I wait for the bow to it the lid, so I can re-tap... it's just fun to have a interactive relationship with the inner workings of a car. ...ok, I'm just lazy to go to the shop.

Hope this helps!

I have SAAB 9-3, TiD 2.2, 2001 year and my problem is next:Leterrs on my display computers are fading and disappear, so I cant see/read any information on it. Please help.

you will need to take it to a shop and they can run a diagnostic to check the system and reset your light, should cost around 100 dollars