20 Most Recent 1999 Saturn SL - Page 4 Questions & Answers

crank poshion is bad

I would suggest going back to the locksmith and getting a refund or fixing the problem to your liking. Check that their work is guaranteed or under warranty.

1999 Saturn SL brakes = front disc and rear drum.

suggest you start by checking the fuse in the in car fuse box, owner manual will indicated which fuse. You may want to visit this page for SL2 solutions Saturn SL2 Repair Questions and Answers 2CarPros

148 ft lbs

their stuck up with age as no doubt the plastic has warped and gone hard with age

Go to a auto recycling yard/junkyard and pick one up the whole door for $10 to 15 dollars or look on rockauto.com its one of the cheapest and best site for parts and instructions

You need to drop your gas tank, first un clamp filler hose fro underneath, and vent hose. Undo the two gas tank straps and wiggle tank down around the exhaust system. Once on the ground you will see a small ring around the hoses going into the sending unit, being very careful to not get dirt in the tank. Sending unit should pop out . The fuel pump is bolted onto the sending unit. You un plug the 2 wires going to it and the bolts holding it on, and replace the opposite way good luck

have you looked at the CPS that is sitting just behind the starter ?

I would suspect the starter solenoid or the starter. I may be telling you something you already know, so if I am, bear with me. When you turn the ignition key to start the car, you apply 12 volt to the starter solenoid (which is physically located on the starter). The solenoid is actually a relay that applies 12 volts( at very high current) to the starter. Since you are not hearing any clicking when you turn the key, I suspect the solenoid. BTW, when you get a starter it usually comes with a solenoid already atteched.

Hope this helps Good luck Loringh

So to install new brakes you always need to compress your caliper back to its original position. There are two ways of doing this one requires you to bleed your system and the other does not. 1. you can loosen your bleeder screw on your caliper to release the pressure to compress your caliper piston if you choose this method you will definitely need to bleed the system because loosening the bleeder screws allows air to enter your brake lines. 2. The other method is remove your brake reservoir cap. If you choose this method you will not need to bleed your brakes (this is assuming you had no air in your brake system prior to starting your brake job) this method allows you to push your brake fluid back up through your reservoir. I would suggest though put a towel around the filler neck of your reservoir because the excess fluid will come out the top as you compress the piston in the calipers. Good luck I hope this helps

If is automatic check oil level,if is manual check your clutch

assuming the lug nuts are removed and you have applied rust penetrating oil ? you might have to apply some heat with a acetylene torch then knock it with big hammer,,,

You don't have to, but if they have never been bleed before and you have over 90k miles on it, it wouldn't hurt! Look at its condition, if it's Clear and nothing is floating in the fluid and the brake is high and firm when depressed, it would be best to leave it alone. But, if the brake pedal is spongy and pumps up after depressing it a few times, then bleeding the system will remove any trapped air bubbles and it will also remove any contaminants or moisture that may have collected over time. If you have access to a Pressure Bleeder, you would have less problems as long as you don't over pressurize the system. Also, make sure you use Dot 3 Brake Fluid if you do bleed them. And if you have never bleed the system and don't have a pressure bleeder, do your best not to don't push the brake pedal to the floor during the bleed process. If you do, it could cause damage the Master Cylinder's internal seals causing them to leak which will cause your brake pedal to sink while holding pressure like at a stop light, causing brake presure failure and the need to either rebuild the Master Cylinder or replace it with a new or rebuilt one! Don't rush through the prosses and doing this on a less humid day is always best as Brake fluid tends to draw moisture from the air, causing your new brake fluid to become contaminated prematurely. One other thing, soak the Bleeder Valves on the Calipers and or Wheel Cylinders with "PB Blaster", its a rust busting penetrant, much Better and Faster then WD40 and will aid in loosening rusted bleeder valves without breaking them. Hope this helps. Happy Saturn Motoring!

Usually means the park switch inside the wiper motor is faulty.

Your brakes work off of vacuum when car is running the brake booster is under vacuum from the intake manifold

cause the car has what is called power brakes, which means that it is assisted by the vacuum created while the engine is running. The brake booster is where this assistance come from and the is the big round thing your master cylinder is hooked to. if you don't know what a master cylinder is that the thing you put your brake fluid in. but I have seen those boosters go bad and cause a problem similar to your except I had brakes when not running but bearly enough to stop the car from rolling. hope this helps

Look where the throttle cable hooks up to the throttle on the throttle body,it is no the opposite side,it moves with the throttle,if this was helpful,please rate,thank you.