20 Most Recent 1990 Geo Prizm Questions & Answers

The brake could be locked on or the wheel bearing could have collapsed. Remove wheel then the brakes if it does not turn then you have a bearing problem good luck.

Check the brake light switch under the dash and check the fuses. Also make sure that both bulbs are not bad.

you can get guide from many sites.. i know few error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switch es functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered within seconds u can get the access and it's totally illustrative complete

Check again there maybe more than one relay and possibly a capacitor

Fit new spark plugs first.

Under the drivers side dash is the OBD2 connector

hello , wont crank or cranks fast but wont start.? (2 different answers) you must tell the helper all things that work or dont work that is how electrics function, by branches . 1: head lights work high and low beams. ( dim or dead?) 2; heater fan work on high? 3: radio. 4: cluster glows those warning lamps as all do key on (y/n) 5;cranks 6: interior lamps dead, my guess you mean the dome lamps.? try to be more clear as to which of the many lamps inside are dead. 7: if its a no crank, car, say so, and check for green battery lugs we clean them , if not corroded ,then we next jump start the car using jumper cables, per instructions on the box. is car automatic trans? if yes and wont crank try cranking in Neutral not park. step on brake /and key on, and shift to N. then crank.

the lever sticks. get the cable lubed or new cable. only a person in the flesh can see whats wrong why as the blind? this is a toyota corolla, in GEO snake skins. the lever must work the cable must work at both end of cable and then the transmission must work.

add one noun what does not turn off. ??? old post

vin engine 6 1,6L corolla, engine, it is. i use Haynes to start fires. (in my Buck stove) here are the factory steps... if that matters... 44 steps buy a real factory service manual? Remove the hood (mark the hood hinges for correct installation). Have a helper assist you and be careful not to damage the painted bodywork.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable and remove the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it on jackstands.
3. Remove the left and right splash shields.
4. Drain the engine oil and the transmission oil.
5. Drain the engine coolant.
6. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the bracket. On automatics disconnect the throttle cable from the accelerator bracket.
7. Remove the air cleaner hose and the air cleaner assembly.
8. Remove the coolant reservoir. Remove the radiator and fan assembly.
9. Remove the washer reservoir tank.
10. Disconnect and remove the cruise control actuator.
11. Label and disconnect the main engine wiring harness from its related sensors and switches.
12. Disconnect the following vacuum hoses and connectors from the intake chamber:
    1. MAP hose from the gas filter
    2. Brake booster vacuum hose
    3. A/C vacuum hose from the actuator
    4. Disconnect the A/C actuator harness
13. Disconnect the following hoses and wiring on the RH fender apron side:
    1. Ground strap connector
    2. MAP connector
    3. A/C pressure switch
    4. Engine wire from the apron
14. Disconnect the following hoses and wiring on the LH fender apron side:
    1. DLC1 connector
    2. Connection from the fender apron
    3. Ground strap from the fender apron
15. Remove the two bolts and engine relay box. Unsecure the four harness connectors from the engine relay box.
16. Remove the charcoal canister.
17. Disconnect the heater hoses.
18. Carefully disconnect the fuel inlet and return lines.
19. If equipped with manual transaxle, unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the bell housing and move the cylinder out of the way. Don't disconnect any lines or hoses. Disconnect the shift control cables by removing the two clips, the washers and retainers.
20. On automatics, disconnect the control cable from the shift lever by unsecuring the clip and retainer.
21. Disconnect the engine wiring from the cabin. Remove both door scuff plates, the lower panel with glove box door, radio, center console cluster finish panel, rear console box and detach any associated wiring. Disconnect the wiring from the ECU and pull the harness out through the cowl panel.
22. Loosen the power steering pump mounting bolt and through bolt. Remove the drive belt.
23. Remove the four bolts holding the air conditioner compressor and remove the compressor. DO NOT loosen or remove any lines or hoses. Move the compressor out of the way and hang it from a piece of stiff wire.
24. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle.
25. Disconnect the oxygen sensor. Remove the two bolts from the exhaust pipe flange and separate the pipe from the exhaust manifold.
26. Raise the car and support it safely on jackstands.
27. On 4WD models, disconnect the oil cooler hoses.
28. Remove the nuts and bolts and separate the halfshafts from the transaxle.
29. On 4WD models, disconnect the propeller shaft.
30. Remove the through bolt from the rear transaxle mount.
31. Remove the nuts from the center transaxle mount and the rear mount.
32. Lower the vehicle to the ground and attach the lifting equipment to the brackets on the engine. Take tension on the hoist line or chain just enough to support the engine but no more. Hang the engine wires and hoses on the chain or cable.
33. Remove the three exhaust hanger bracket nuts and the hanger. Remove the two center crossmember-to-main crossmember bolts. Remove the three center crossmember-to-radiator support bolts. CAUTION
34. Support the crossmembers with a jack or jackstands when loosening the bolts. The pieces are heavy and could fall on you.
35. On 4WD models, remove the eight crossmember-to-body bolts, then remove the two bolts holding the control arm brackets to the underbody. Remove the two center mount-to-transaxle bolts and remove the mount. Carefully lower the center mount and crossmember and remove from under the car.
36. At the left engine mount, remove the three bolts and the bracket, then remove the bolt, two nuts, through bolt and mounting. Remove the three bolts and the air cleaner bracket.
37. Loosen and remove the five bolts and disconnect the mounting bracket from the transaxle bracket. Remove the through bolt and mounting.
38. Carefully and slowly raise the engine and transaxle assembly out of the car. Tilt the transaxle down to clear the right engine mount. Be careful not to hit the steering gear housing. Make sure the engine is clear of all wiring, lines and hoses.
39. Support the engine assembly on a suitable stand; do not allow it to remain on the hoist for any length of time.
40. With the engine properly supported, disconnect the reverse light switch and the neutral safety switch (automatic transaxle).
41. Remove the rear end cover plate.
42. If equipped with automatic transaxle, remove the 6 torque converter mounting bolts.
43. Remove the starter.
44. Support the transaxle, remove the retaining bolts in the case and remove the transaxle from the engine. Pull the unit straight off the engine; do not allow it to hang partially removed on the shaft. Keep the automatic transaxle level; if it tilts forward the converter may fall off.

end remove........toyota steps. all.

next time it stalls pull the plug wire from the spark plug. have an extra spark plug with you and stick it in the boot. lay it across a known ground and turn the car over. its probably not firing.. sounds like its an ignition module faulty that acts up when it gets hot

Broken connector wire.

the key switch is under the key , in the column center. all relays are in the fuse boxes. front and cab . post symptoms, we can help lacking that. we could show photos all day of switches, relays, and fuses, but why?

1.6 engine, timing belt. 4A not 4AF. F = twin cam. V.I.N. code 6 not 5, the 5is twin cam 4AFE twin. the car is a Corolla, and as such info is easy to find on toys, so that the engine real name is. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#4A so you dont want all the facts? marks and how to set tension correctly? really? at #12 and 18? getting all this right, makes it GO 60k more miles, (a fact) the words.

1. Remove the timing belt covers using procedures described earlier in this section.
2. If not done as part of the cover removal, rotate the crankshaft clockwise to the TDC/compression position for No. 1 cylinder.
3. Loosen the timing belt idler pulley to relieve the tension on the belt, move the pulley away from the belt and temporarily tighten the bolt to hold it in the loose position.
4. Make matchmarks on the belt and both pulleys showing the exact placement of the belt. Mark an arrow on the belt showing its direction of rotation.
5. Carefully slip the timing belt off the pulleys.
6. dont move cam, with belt off it warns.
7. Remove the idler pulley bolt, pulley and return spring.
8. Use an adjustable wrench mounted on the flats of the camshaft to hold the cam from moving. Loosen the center bolt in the camshaft timing pulley and remove the pulley.
9. Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of cracking or deterioration. Pay particular attention to the area where each tooth or cog attaches to the backing of the belt. If the belt shows signs of damage, check the contact faces of the pulleys for possible burrs or scratches.
10. Check the idler pulley by holding it in your hand and spinning it. It should rotate freely and quietly. Any sign of grinding or abnormal noise indicates replacement of the pulley.
11. Check the free length of the tension spring. Correct length is 38.5mm measured at the inside faces of the hooks. A spring which has stretched during use will not apply the correct tension to the pulley; replace the spring.
12. If you can test the tension of the spring, look for 8.4 lbs. of tension at 50mm of length. If in doubt, replace the spring.
13. Reinstall the camshaft timing belt pulley, making sure the pulley fits properly on the shaft and that the timing marks align correctly. Tighten the center bolt to 43 ft. lbs.
14. Before reinstalling the belt, double check that the crank and camshafts are exactly in their correct positions. The alignment mark on the end of the camshaft bearing cap should show through the small hole in the camshaft pulley and the small mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley should align with the mark on the oil pump.
15. Reinstall the timing belt idler pulley and the tension spring. Pry the pulley to the left as far as it will go and temporarily tighten the retaining bolt. This will hold the pulley in its loosest position.
16. Install the timing belt, observing the matchmarks made earlier. Make sure the belt is fully and squarely seated on the upper and lower pulleys.
17. Loosen the retaining bolt for the timing belt idler pulley and allow it to tension the belt.
18. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crank clockwise 2 full revolutions from TDC to TDC. Insure that each timing mark realigns exactly.
19. Tighten the timing belt idler pulley retaining bolt to 27 ft. lbs.
20. Measure the timing belt deflection (Tool 23600 B or similar), looking for 5-6mm of deflection at 4.4 pounds of pressure. If the deflection is not correct, readjust the idler pulley by repeating steps 15 through 18.
21. Remove the bolt from the end of the crankshaft.
22. Install the timing belt guide onto the crankshaft and install the lower timing belt cover.
23. Continue reassembly of the timing belt covers as outlined previously in this section.

Should be behind the glovebox or either in the passenger side kick panel.

the damper at the core must be open, so the rules are" (heat exchangers) 101 1: hot engine, yes. 2: hot core, yes. (water must flow and both tubes hot to core) 3: air flow through core, not. (fix cause, if blower is running on high then the damper is closed. do you need a drawing? the FSM covers that , all cars, factory service manual even shows every step, in diagnosis. 1990 is a toyota corolla. so books on that car , match too.. hint? they make 2 kinds if 1990 one with cable damper (temp) and with water valve. got valve>y/n, no then its damper this is a cable car, so the cable must move the valve or the damper open fully to get hot air valve below. (1990 corolla book) using 2 persons, make sure the valve works and is not clogged inside. it.

the heater blower motor is run through two fuses. the gauge fuse in fuse block 1 and the ac fuse in fuse block 4.

the hydra part is automatic adjusted, but... and sure , all pedals are adjustable. point?, does that mean. the point the car moves or the height of the pedal point? most cars have 2 adjustments on just the pedal. the height. and then the free play to the back side of the MC the FSM covers every step of this, did you try to read that first? alldata.com

Hey Dan, see diagram below ,it looks very easy just loosen jam nut adjust and tighten .if this helped you please let me know by clicking (was this helpful ). Woody

like all cars with elect fans. 1: stuck relay 2: stuck signal controlling said relay on older cars the controlling factor is the fan over temp switches on newer cars the PCM controls all that. the best way to fix cars is to get the book. the book is called FSM. factory service manual. alldata.com or at toyotanation, dot com. prizm = corolla.