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2001 Land Rover Discovery Series II Questions & Answers
Land Rover Discovery II, 1999, Remote door opener
Pull the alarm Relay. RELAY center under hood upper driver corner.
Turn all lights off. Radio off. All doors closed.
- Remove Battery, Negative, First. Then Positive.
- Find Alarm Relay. Pull Relay. If also alarm Fuse Pull Fuse.
- Has been over 5 minutes that battery is disconnected.
- Turn ignition switch to RUN Position. Leave Driver door open.
- Now reconnnect Battery.
- Turn ignition to OFF. Close door.
- Mil illumination, (check ingine light), Should come on. ECU can not find Alarm. Try to start Vehicle.
I would like to know if this works for you.
Jos
questions & comments
Where do I locate the fuel pump of the Land Rover Discovery 11 TD5 ?
I think the access is under the carpet in the rear cargo area. You have to remove the trim to get the carpet up, or just cut the carpet to access the fuel pump cover like I did in my truck -- (I didn't care about keeping it perfect, so I cut a flap in the carpet to get to the fuel pump access cover)
Coil keeps blowing
You may be getting too much voltage. Most coils do not run on a full 12 volts. Best to ask here:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/gtsearch.php?cx=partner-pub-7865546952023728%3Az07e5j7y5y5&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&q=bad+coil&sa=Search&siteurl=www.landroversonly.com%2Fforums%2Ff40%2Fhelp-disco-coil-pack-27697%2F&ref=www.google.com%2F&ss=4943j4486965j10
How do I hot wire ignition?
So u stole a Land Rover? Good luck. Some of them have immobilizer circuits. If you have money for gas you can call land rover dealer and get it fixed with insurance. Or not.
2000 Discover TD5 Auto harsh vibration under power at 2000 -2500
The "lift off and it goes away" is the clue I feel. This eliminates engine out of balance issues and points squarely to fueling issues. I would say try a compression test (always a good first start before you try much else) but with plenty of power and no vibration except in the range, probably not a compression issue. So, what's left? Fuel or air is the answer. Check air inlet path is from air filter to turbo and (more importantly) from turbo to intake manifold. Check wastegate on turbo is OK - disconnect the wastegate (it's bolted on to the turbo) hose, then **** on the wastegate hose, you should feel resistance. If not wastegate aneroid has perforated. At this point, I suggest taking it to a LR dealer and get them to pull all the engine codes. If all OK, next step is injectors. It's a common rail diesel and removal is a bit tricky, but if you pull them out, you will often be able to see a single injector with all the carbon deposits around it. If all injectors look the same, suggest that at this point you need to take them to a diesel specialist for testing and calibrating. This process usually cures 70% of diesel misfire problems. The other 30% really requires specialist knowledge of your vehicle's engine.
Overheating and when the fluid is being refilled it is coming out the bottom of the vehicle.
Most likely your heater hoses or radiator / lower radiator hose has been worn through or otherwise unclamped from your engine. The fluid could be seen as coming out of the bottom even though the tear or break is at the back, side or top of the engine block.
Soak up the fluids up after the engine cools. Dry off everything in and around the engine with rags or whatever you can spare. Then as you slowly add fluid you may be able to pinpoint the exact spot where the fluid is leaking. That's your repair spot.
It is VERY unlikely your engine is actually broken. The worst case would be a rusted through freeze plug (these are located below the exhaust manifold to keep frozen fluid from breaking your block in extremely cold, say minus 50 degrees, temperatures). Those take a mechanic to replace. Parts are cheap. Labor should not be more than a few hundred dollars at most. Probably less.
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