20 Most Recent 2000 Saab 9-3 Viggen - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Best to take it to a shop or a delaer to get codes, but I think the top latch above the rear view mirror is not clamping down the top tight enough. The second message "Check Soft Top Motion" leads me to believe this - the OBD thinks the top hasn't finished opening/closing. Unfortunately there isn't too much in the way of adjustment that can be done, besides R&R of the microswitches (that you mention are in good shape).

Here is a link to a Dayco PDF file that will have a belt diagram for you. Find you car on the main page, fine the number to the diagram and thats how you belt routes. Depends on month of manufacture yours could have 2 guide or tensioner pulleys. Facing the engine, one should be the top left pulley, that one is common to all. The optional tensioner will be the next pulley to the right. If one is missing it may have fallen off and you may be able to run a shorter belt.

I had the same problem on my 9-5 vector 3.0 TiD with the top up coolant warning. Nearly became bankrupt trying to diagnose the problem and trips to Saab. Header tank, sensors, pressure tested etc. The Saab squaddies couldn't figure it out until it got worse. It's a head gasket failure despite passing pressure tests initially...sounds like it's still early days on yours. Had to replace the engine for near £5000.but under warranty :-) Reckon 2.5-3k at a good specialists.

usually an indicator that there is a fault in teh transmission. You need to get the fault code read with a code reader. Auto Zone or most other major auto parts stores will do this for free. It will most likely involve a transmission repair.

Your mechanic may have forgotten to reset the light. Also if the time for service light is your check engine light a fault code may be stored in the vehicles on board computer. Have the codes pulled to determine if a fault code is present or not. If there are non you can have the light reset, however if there is a fault code and you just reset it the light will keep coming on until the problem is corrected.

CODE P1260 THROTTLE RETURN SPRING WEAK SPRING FORCE. CODE P1251 THROTTLE POSITION MOTOR FULLY CLOSED POSITION. CODE P1231 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR 1 AND 2 RANGE PERFORMANCE PROBLEM. SOUND LIKE PROBLEM IS MECHANICAL PROBLEM.YOU HAVE WEAK THROTTLE RETURN SPRING.GO TO DEALERSHIP PARTS DEPARTMENT FOR NEW RETURN SPRING.

The light you're referring to isn't a check engine light, the check engine light merely says "check engine" in orange and is on the lower right hand side of your instrument panel. It is reserved for telling you that something annoying is happening with your engine, but is usually related to a bad sensor reading in your emissions control system.

That other light, (the exclamation point in the red triangle, in the center of the instrument panel,) indicates that something very bad is happening with your engine, it only comes on if continued driving could severely damage the engine. I highly recommend against driving it at all, as doing so will probably just make your problems worse.

What's your temperature gauge reading? If it's going really high, or remaining pegged at the bottom, you may have some kind of coolant system issue, and the motor is shutting down due to an overheat. (Which can then result in a blown head gasket, which I have done...)

I have experienced this twice: once due to a coolant line blowing and overheating my engine, and once due to a major oil leak. (Oil running straight out of the bottom as soon as I put it in. Yikes!) Neither of these problems is something you want to drive your car with until you have discovered the source of, and rectified; the problem. Check all of your fluids and oil, watch all of your gauges, and see if anything out of the ordinary is going on.

If you can't see any obvious reason for this, take it in to the shop, because your car is trying to protect your engine, and getting an estimate is a lot cheaper than replacing your engine.

Good luck,

-R

no it will reset itself ,these vehicles suffer from the bottom connection breaking off the header tank bottle and they cost 81 euros with the tax and are only available from saab with a ten day order time

The crankshaft position sensor is located on the front of the engine above and behind the starter. The starter will need to be removed to get to the sensor.

Hi, before you go about removing the lock try getting something like wd40 or an easy spray and then give this a little sprat inside the bit the key goes into you usually get a little straw with the can and just poke this inside the lock and give it a tiny spray then put the key in and keep working it backwards and forwards and turn the ignition on and off a few times then take the key out and give it one more spray then try the key again, doing this should save you having to take the lock out and should free the springs up inside and get it working properly again.

only spray a small amount inside and then work the key doing this should then solve your problem and get it working normal again.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

Are you talking about the "Time for Service" message on your SID (Saab Information Display)? Press the CLR button (hold it down), and you'll hear a "ping!" keep your finger down, and you'll hear a second "ping!" and it will be gone.

I am asumoing that you are talking about the coldness of the air, and not he fan itself (you are getting air, but cold air). The problem is the AC compressor clutch that has gone out, and engages sporatically. unfortunately, this is not a cheap part - you can't just replace the clutch. Best to have a mechanic do it, but it can be done with some tools and patience. Hope this helps.

What? that's crazy! why wont you take advises from several mechanics? this is the best solution.

P1312 is ignition coil knock detection cyl 1 and 2 and the cause is quoted as wiring open circuit/short to positive, ignition coil assy, ECM.
P1334 is as 1312, but cylinders 3 and 4.
The other thing to that would cause detonation too is low fuel octane causing detonation during acceleration. Or dirty fuel injector and dirty fuel filter. Timing would cause this but i don't think your timing is off since you can get it started. Recap, add fuel injector cleaner to your gas tank for the next 3 fill ups and try using a higher octane rated fuel like 91 and replace the fuel filter for now and see if there are any improvments. keep me posted, be glad to help.

Bad abs module.

The engine sensors are badly wired/installed. Since i don't know what you did to them all i can say is to remove them all and start all over again.

The Code you're referring to should be a "P0502." What the Code signifies is: "Vehicle speed sensor circuit, low input."

Hello
Could be nothing more then dirt and corrosion on the battery cable ends.

Look at the cable ends where they connect to the battery if there dirty or corroded you will need to clean them off with a wire brush.

Another possibility is the starter has a dead spot and will need to be replaced.