20 Most Recent 1996 Kia Sportage Questions & Answers

ck the simple things first , like the fuses , both under hood and under dash , then look 4 the fuel pump cut off switch , sometimes called the roll over switch , its usually in side panel at back , make sure its not tripped or bad , also something ill look for from now on , as it recently caused me a few hours of time , was to see if all the air bags are plugged in , seems cars have to have there air bags plugged in to run nowadays

That is normal start up engine mapping.

Can be fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel relay.

Should move because strut is moving.

Camshaft position located at rear end of cylinder head.Crankshaft position sensor, located at lower left side end of engine.Both sensors are bolted on with one bolt and replacement is simple, only problem could be accessing them due to location.

My brand new kia sportage 2L purchased in January 2010 gave me problems from the start. First gas tank was squeezed sometime before and vehicle kept running out of gas even though gas gauge showing gas inside. Dealer replaced gas tank. More persistent problem is the vehicle hesitates to accelerate especially if not driven for about three hours or so and when on an incline. Went back to dealer on several occasions but no solution. any ideas?

2.0L DOHC engine: 6.8-7.5 liters (1.79-1.98 gallons). Different years and different engines vary the capacity, but 2 gallons will likely take care of most Sportage coolant fills. Type of Antifreeze for Kia Sportage How Much Do You Need

According to DRE99gsx on supraforums.com who has similar problems: "btw, I found the problem, and SHE STARTED! After inspecting all 3 sensors, I determined that the crank sensor was the only unknown. I compared the intake cam with a stock intake cam to verify the cam sensor tabs were in the same locations, 180deg apart. They were. Since the sesnors and wiring all checked out, I then proceded to verify that the crank timing plate was in the right location. Well, it wasnt. After removing the timing belt covers, I noticed the timing belt was not using the entire crank timing belt gear. 1/8th of the belt was sticking out past the rear end of this gear. Turns out the timing plate behind the gear was not pressed into the gear. I thought you slide on the plate, then the gear, and they press into each other (as long as the plate's tab lines with the gear's groove). I guess not. I removed them both and pressed them together in a vise, heard a click, and realized this could have been the issue. The crank sensor was seeing erratic signals as I was turning the crank. I'm sure if I had an oscilloscope handy I could have caught this quicker, but through process of elimination, gold was scored. Thanks for the help. She fired up and idled like it should. 80psi oil pressure (cold), fuel pressure was good, etc etc. "

the tank gauge and fuel gauge are all one if the fuel gauge is working then you have power

Replace the valve stem or have it replaced. There is a special tool to unscrew the valve stem. Remove the wheel and tire from the car and depress the pin in the stem to release the air in the tire. When you have about 90% of the air out of the tire, insert the tool into the stem an turn counterclockwise to remove. After you install the new valve stem, get a ride to a gas station that offers free air and fill the tire up. As long as the tire is still seated to the lip of the rim (check just for your safety but I very highly doubt it unseated from the rim) and fill the tire to the cold psi rating which is stamped on the sidewall of the tire. If you want to check the tire itself for a slow leak prior to doing the steps above, here is what to do. Get a pan or plastic tub that is sightly wider and longer than the tire and rim. Fill the tub with water and set them it in the water (while it is still filled with air) and slowly roll the tire in place and look for small air bubbles to rise. If you see bubbles, there is a leak.

sometimes it's just an effect of worn parts. could be ignition timing, injector timing or the alternator or water pump bearings. you can stop by a small auto repair business and have a mechanic look at it.

do you have fuel pressure, quick check is to have someone turn the ignition key on while you listen closely to the fuel tank. You should hear a whining sound for about 2 seconds. if you don't the fuel pump is not working.

Did you try replacing the batteries in the key FOB?

What about battery cables you maybe getting enough pawer for lights but not enough to start

gas problem??????

Most often, blower fan motors gets corroded and or the ground wires gets corroded or loose. Try cleaning up the ground connection first and test. If it does not turn, you've got to test if the fan motors work by directly running a positive wire to the fan motor connection. If fan motor does not run, its dead. I had experienced though that the fan motor was entangled with threads from the rags used to clean the car, these coupled with dirt and grease held the fan motor to a stop. A simple clean up did the trick.

Most likely you have cracked a head or blown a head gasket. Moisture from the cooling system is seeping into the cylinder and getting your spark plug damp and preventing combustion. You will most likely need major repair work. Check your coolant and oil. If either is present in the other or looks milky like a frappuccino, you have a cylinder head leak. (bad news). Otherwise take it to a shop or friend you trust that is a mechanic and have them confirm the diagnosis. Good Luck! europartsplus.com