20 Most Recent 1999 Land Rover Discovery - Page 8 Questions & Answers

RAVE says the following:
1) Release ABS Sensor harness grommet from inner wing valance and disconnect multi plug.
2) Raise front of vehicle.
3) Remove road wheel.
4) Pull ABS Sensor harness through aperture into wheel arch.
5) Release harness from brackets on inner wing valance, suspension turret and front hub.
6) Release stake from drive shaft nut
7) Remove drive shaft nut with assistance & discard.
8) Remove front brake disk (Remove calliper, pad holder, screw and tap to remove)
9) Remove 4 bolts securing wheel hub to steering knuckle.
10) Release wheel hub from steering knuckle then remove wheel hub and drive shaft assembly from axle. DO NOT REMOVE ABS SENSOR FROM HUB. HUB AND SENSOR ARE SUPPLIED AS AN ASSEMBLY.
11) Position the wheel hub and drive shaft on a press, place supports beneath the wheel studs and press the drive shaft from the wheel hub.
12) Remove drive shaft oil seal from axle casing.

Refit is mostly the reverse, you need to take care to lubricate things in the right places and put loctite on the drive shaft and locate the loom and torque everything right.

RH Rear Wheel arch. The TD5 is large and obvious, the V8 is tucked up and above the shock.

It's the big thing, underneath the cabin. If it's an auto, drain, refill to overflow, start run through D-3-2-1-2-3-D a few times, check level and top back up. You can then take it for a quick run and do another drain and replace to hopefully replace 70-80% of the oil due to what is in the torque converter and cooler system. Don't forget to check the transfer box at the rear of the gearbox, and the differentials also. Correct oil in each is essential.

Usual problems with the door locks necessitate a complete strip down and replacement of the entire lock unit. This is assuming that yours is a Discovery 2, not a late 300, which have a small spring that snaps. These are cheap to replace, and while fiendishly tricky to change (helps if you have small hands, or a small child to do it for you) are much cheaper than the D2 which are about £60-£70 for the lock unit.

It thinks you're kinky ;)

Seriously though, it suggests a problem with the Automatic Gear box ECU, or X/Y selector switch. Can also be water in the connector as it joins the gearbox, or someone's knocked the ECU which is under the passenger seat (RHD).
Sometimes this can be cleared by stopping, turning off the ignition, and starting again and it's fine. It's alerting you that it is in 'Limp Home' mode (3)

On the TD5 it's built into the ECU, on the V8 it's behind the drivers side kick panel.

Sounds like the drivers window has done what mine did and the cog has rolled off the end and jammed on the regulator. Reg's are cheap (£35 or so), make sure you buy some panel clips for the door trims as you will break some! A trim removal tool is also recommended. Clips are a few quid, tool is usually around £10 or so.
You may also need a new motor.

the rear handle gets stuck in the up position..spray with wd40 and work till released..then it will be fine

it should be located on the fuel line around the middle of the car if not its about 2 1/4 inches by 4 1/4inches

bring it to a dealer so they can hook it up to their computer to diag. it. ive worked on these before and there is a lot that could be wrong with the ace system

you've got a bad wheel speed sensor or corresponding tone ring. take it to a dealer. they'll hook it up to a computer and tell you which sensor or tone ring it is and give you an estimate. you only pay for the hour of diag.

Perform a compression test, if okay, look at plugs and ignition items, then look for intake leaks.

I suspect that you just may not feel the misfire at speed.

Intake based leaks do manifest as per your description, but usually missing is just less noticable at higher engine speeds.

good day, its either you have a high beam relay problems or a faulty bulbs that needs to be replaced, have it checked. hope this helps, have a nice day

it will be the stork

Best info I've found on this issue is on this site, but under 1998. Here's the link: http://www.fixya.com/cars/t2055474-help_discovery_vibration_problem

I assume it was running before you changed the plugs and wires, verify you didnt disconnect accidently another wire such as a crank position sensor or an oxygen sensor on or near exhaust manifold
also check the wire firing order make sure that is correct...

Likely the relay is the problem, the multifunction switch can fail as well.
I have the troubleshooting diagram for electrical on Series 1 Discos but a very good working knowledge of electrical circuitry is necessary to use this info.

it may be that the wiper arm is worn on the inside of the bottom bushing you will need to replace it, make sure you turn off the wipers before you turn off ignition so the wipers travel to their proper rest spot on windows some just lift off some have a screw in them just replace them in the same rest position as for any special tools you will need to contact a good garage to see if any are required or your local Land Rover Dealer

Coolant level was down by 2 litres. Topping it off solved the heat problem. I guess the heat core is plumbed to the coolant system, so low coolant affects the heat inside the cab.

Unfortunatly a Freelander rear doorglass has a cable/pully regulator system. if the the cable has become disconnected it usally means something has broken and the regulator has to be replaced.

Hope this helps