how do you replenish the hydraulic system on the roof mechanism on a 1999 saab convertible 93 ?
To check the oil level open the boot - at the very back remove the 4 plastic clips that hold the carpet in place. Slightly to the left of the center there are 2 holes - shine a light in the bottom and look through the top one to check the level.
To add oil - fold down the seat backrest. Remove the plastic trim - held on by 4 screws and 2 pop out plastic cllips.
Undo the 8 large bolts that hold the cover in place - 2 on top and 3 on front and back.Then lift up the cover from the front edge. You will then be able to get to the resevoir - you will need a funnel to poor fluid in.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Hi,
I've inherited a 1995 SAAB 900 SE convertible, 2 litre turbo. The clutch engages in less than an inch off the floor. My brother suggested checking the fluid level but I cannot figure where & how to do that.
Thanks
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above links will help u get step by step information to solve all problems regarding almost all the cars .
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Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Saab 05 reg 93 convertible roof won't open no message on dash
Your tonneau motor is probably bad, though reprogramming the limits may fix it. You will need the factory tool, unfortunately. There is a lot of information on this webpage. Be sure to read the information relating to updates on 1995 models.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
I have a 1996 automatic Saab 900. It recently had a "Check engine" light showing and stalled when the accelarator was pressed down past a certain point.
A local garage diagnosed a problem with the air flow sensor and idle control valve. These were replaced. As soon as I drove the car away the "Check gearbox" light started to show and the car is now very sluggish. I am worried that this fault is related to the original fault or perhaps caused by the garage when they carried out the repairs.
Has anyone experienced anything similar? Do you think the faults are related, or has the garage done more harm than good?!
Hello. I had the same problem when the Check Gearbox light came on, it would be very sluggish. It turned out to be a small sensor in the transmission that lets the car know what gear it is in. It started to go out slowly and only sometimes would send the information.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Problem: Giving full power (hot engine, after driving several miles) the turbo gives full power and then, like the pressure is too high, reduces pressure. It feels like you are pumping the gas pedal all the time - power - no - power - no power - no. This effect can also be seen on the turbo pressure panel. If you keep standing on the gas, this symptom keeps for a while and then suddenly the car works like normal!? The test system cannot find any fault! Does anyone have a clue, where this fault comes from, and how it could be solved? I have the same problem exactly, and I'm suffering to solve it, can you please confirm if you have already solved it? if so please explain the solution in details. i have the 95` 900s and have the exact problem and noone knows why, only difference is mine has no turbo.
Sounds like the recirculation valve (aka diverter valve) is failing. A lot of turbo cars that have them end up with failures from them, since they're usually cheaply made from plastic, and the diaphragms inside don't hold up over time.
What the valve does is, when you shift, there is a backsurge of boost air that hits the closed throttle plate. The diverter valve (DV) opens and dumps the air back into the intake piping. It's kept closed during acceleration by spring and manifold pressure. When you shift, the pressure drops on the backside of the valve and it opens, venting the excess boost air. If your valve is failing, just the pressure of boost in the intake piping could be pushing it open, causing the acceleration to slow. I'd look into a replacement diverter/recirculation valve.
Posted on Jul 31, 2008
It's a '96 SAAB 93 convertible. When operating the roof retract there's some movement at the back window but it just stops there. There's no grinding or knocking sounds it feels like it could just be a microswitch. Does anyone know how many micros control this opening process and where they are? i have no idea how to dismantle it to get in and have a look at the micros and motors. can anyone suggest the best way to tackle this problem. Do i aproach from the trunk or the back seat?
I managed to sort the problem, turns out there's a shear pin. I found this pin sitting in the bag in the back (the one the roof folds into) Now i just have to replace that and hopefully it should work
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
Trying to fix my saab. It has an engine knock. I need an engine diagram for a 1995 saab 900 se V6. Anyone got one?
A SAAB dealer should be able to print one out for you. BTW that engine is practically identical to the V6 used in a caddy Catera, and Saturn Ion. Those diagrams would be the same, so you might want to search that also.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
saab 93 convertible roof wont open it part opens then the sip beeps and displays remove luggage from upper boot area but there is nothing in the boot
my 1999 saab 93 converible roof will only open if i press the button twice why is this
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
procedure to replace rear brake pads on 1995 saab 900s
Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected
by moisture
like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are
similar to front
disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must
incorporate
the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the
emergency
brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside
the brake
disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a
screw style
actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are
forced into
the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads,
brake caliper
mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the
rotor mounting
screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to
be removed.
First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn
counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the
brake caliper
from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move
freely in the
caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.
Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the
rear brake
caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and
remove it from
the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap
the rotor
gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and
bearing hub.
Lift brake rotor from wheel hub
holding on tightly, using both hands. You
do not want to drop the rotor.
Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor
gently
to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing
hub. Lift
brake rotor from wheel hub, hold
on using both hands and do not drop.
Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are
the same
size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake
rotor is installed.
Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be
installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset.
The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads
will fit.
This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can
only be
reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake
Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts
and make sure
the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake
pads. They
should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn
out. Check
the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is
required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall
caliper mounting
bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the
caliper piston.)
Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts.
Bleed
brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the
vehicle, push
the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the
brake pads
to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE
VEHICLE
until proper brake pedal
operation resumes.
When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the
operation of
the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under
inspection
on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear
protective eyewear,
gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never
crank an engine
over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an
operational fire
extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of
an injury.
Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running.
When engine
is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components.
Never move
a car without proper brake pedal operation.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
I need to replace the alternator on a 1996 saab 900, 2.0 turbo. I can't get to the top bolt for the alternator. how to you take off the belt tensioner assembly so that you can get to the top bolt for the alternator.
i done one of these earlier in the year and my old age means i cannot remember properly ,i done a water pump as well which meant removing the radiator and the AC rad ,and to get all this off i had to remove the front bumper as well so the radiator came out ,i took the belt tensioner off as well for something but it wasnt difficult as i remember ,that was it i think ,i had to drop the timing belt to get the water pump out if i can remember it correctly ,the problem is i do so may vehicles that i work from basic mechanics and the moto here is if its in the way remove it to gain access .iam sorry but iam sitting here racking my brains trying to remember how i took that tensioner off and for the life of me i cannot remember what i did or how i done it so it had to be simple for me not to remember ,funny because the owner of the car was here today with a friend dropping another vehicle off for repair .Sorry but i think you will have to ask again and maybe it will be fresher in someone elses memory .
Posted on Nov 22, 2010
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