20 Most Recent 1999 Saturn SC Questions & Answers

If you're comfy with manuals then i know few websites that can help you with it. Bcause I've got it from various websites so I know how each site deals. try www.reliable-store com . Very helpful

You will need to replace it with a salvage yard part if you can find one.

sounds like a head gasket in the first stages

the door release is next to your driver seat but if it is sezed up you can go in to the trunk and pull back the trunk lining and you will find a black covered cable if you pull on it the door will open

first you will need to pop out the dash top because there is 2 nuts by the bottom of the glass on the fire wall where the wiper motor is under the cowl then open the hood and remove the wiper arms and the cowl then you will have 2 or 3 bolts that hold the wiper transmisson in place and out comes the wiper moter

Single / double overhead camshaft SOHC DOHC

it is most likely a wheel bearing problem.. which could lead to serious problems. if i were you i would not take it on the highway, until you get this checked by a mechanic who knows what theyre doing, and replace the wheel bearing.

The check engine light could come on for a variety of reasons. Your car is loaded with electronic solenoids with voltages running to them. If you are getting low voltage at a Throttle Positioning Sensor for instance you will get a code for that. For around $100.00 at WalMart you can pick up a Code Reader. It will give you a code that you can look up in a service manual and it will tell you what the computer is reading as the problem. It will only get you in the ballpark, not diagnose the problem. For that you can utilize this forum or you can take it to the dealer or a repair shop and they can diagnose it for you, but in any event the Check Engine light doesn't come on for no reason even if the car seems to be running fine.

when do you hear the noise? is it a rattle over bumps? does it stop when brakes are applied? ck sway bar bushings, are they good

What are you asking in some detail?I would suspect any sun roof issue was mechanical& electrical & not computer related or even part ofany module back in 1999Your answer to electrical system functions is lookingat a wiring diagram

I owned a 95 SC1 manual many years ago. It acted like that for me, and stalled on a regular basis. Turned out the EGR valve was bad. I replaced it and all those problems went away. I'm not sure how to test it, but two bolts and you can pull the valve and make sure it's not crudded up. Don't use solvents or you can damage the diaphragm in there, just use a toothbrush and some rags. You should also use a new gasket when you reinstall it, although as a test you can reuse the old one if it's not damaged. While you do that check for obvious intake and vacuum leaks. There may even be a vacuum line going to the EGR valve. Hope that helps.

sounds like the catalytic converter is pluggged, not allowing exhaust to escape, therefore causing the engine to be hotter on topside, and loss of power

Locate the "ground" side of the fuse connector (the side that goes to the injectors and DOES NOT go to the battery).Connect an ohm meter between the ground side of the fuse connector and the battery NEGATIVE post. The short will show a resistance of less than 5 ohms.With the meter connected as above, start unplugging all of the connectors that are involved in that circuit one at a time to isolate the short. (you will know you found it when the resistance reading goes way up). Fortunately, this is an easy one. That fuse feeds the injectors, and NOTHING else. (see partial Power Distribution diagram below) You most likely have a shorted injector. If unplugging the injectors one at a time does not find the problem child, then you need to check the wiring harness between the injectors and the fuse block to see if it is rubbed through or pinched.

Your horn button may be stuck or the horn relay in the powerbox is bad. You can get diagrams at autozone.com when you register your car for free on their site.