Top 10 1997 Saturn SL Questions & Answers

Well my 97 sl2's button also flew out of the emergency brake handle. I got frustrated when i saw how much they wanted for the parts to get it fixed. But the solution was as close as my tool box. I found a forgotten tube of 5 ton epoxy resin. And since i didn't feel like spending $100,00 i took the cover off the emergency brake put epoxy gel inside the broken button put the spring on and put the plastic piece in place put on and held the button down for 10 minutes with my bare hands until set to usable strength and now it works perfectly.

There should only be 2 hoses going to the resivoir. A small hose to the top, fender side. And a larger hose bottom toward the engine. There is a coolant level switch on the bottom. If you roll the washer resivoir forward it will lift up out of the way, without un-hooking anything. Hopefully this helps.

When the battery is dead, the key cannot be removed. You can either charge the battery, and remove the key or, there is a access panel (small) under the steering column, remove this, and push a small pluger to the left, while holding the plunger, remove the key.

If the temp gauge is reading normal, the lights are flashing, and the coolant level is full, the level sensor in the coolant bottle is the problem. I'm a service consultant for a Saturn dealer and I've run across this many times.

Hold down preset buttons 2 & 3 at the same time with radio off.This will bring up the 4 digit default unlock code.With this you can call your local Saturn dealer & the can take that 4 digit # & give you another that will unlock your radio out of theft mode.Hope this helps

It is an inline fuel filter under the car in the frame rail up front neat the motor area. It will look similar to this...



On that saturn it has a hose already attached to the fuel filter. It has what they call quick connects on both sides. just remove one side of air intake. (the one closest to firewall of car) where you can get your arm in there. Reach right under fuel filter and grab two white or green tabs with pointer finger and thumb. and squeeze till they make a snaping noice. then all you have to do is reach under fuel filter and pull hose off. Then push the black clips around fuel filter out and it should slide out. The same on the hose already connected to the fuel filter

It is your heater core, there is nothing else left.

The heater housing is usually under the dash, and it must be removed to gain access to the heater core.Procedures for removing a dash, and heater core vary. But for the core:
The heater housing must be removed, and then you
"remove the panels" or "split the case" (Usually screwed together.)
Remove the coolant hoses, the cable and vacuum control line.
Remove the heater core bracket and clamps.
To install the new heater core, reverse the removal steps.
Core leaks **** because of the core's location deep within the firewall/ dashboard of the car.
So remember to liquid test your new one before you put it back in, or you could be sorry.

I think these are the 2 diagrams you need, but they aren't that useful in this form. I recommend you post a request at the bottom of the following site to get a better answer: http://www.modifiedlife.com/request-saturn-remote-start-wiring-diagram/

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

get the fault codes read somewhere else
first have the ecm reset using a scan tool as replacing the battery can corrupt the program