1999 Hyundai Accent - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

go to the given link get the manual and solve the problem http://toolsnyou.com/

Sounds like the rubber hoops you describe are part of the exhaust mounting arrangement and have come adrift. The underbody knocking sound is the exhaust system striking the bodywork. Not a big deal if you get it fixed as soon as possible. Ignore it and you could be leaving the exhaust system on the highway in the near future

You make no mention of any fault code tests, heave you had one yet?

They do sell shims, usually they come with the starter, but you can buy them separately.

Shouldn't you have your insurance company look at the damage done to your car first?

Don't understand what you mean by the clutch started to get hard to put in gear, please explain what that means.

hyundai spares departments e- bay kits from carby overhaul shops

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Best Manuals

More than likely the valves in the head are damaged. The ribs have torn off the belt and that is why it doesn't turn. It is very important to change the belt at 60k miles along with the pulley and tensioner. You should do a compression check to see if the valves are really bent.

ABS means your brakes may not stop your car properly at high speeds and make the car wiggle and swerve. I don't know what the code means but if I was you I have the brakes checked. read more about the anti-lock brakes here, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system

Problem is either wiring or the bulbs... evident.

It sounds to me like you might have a loose headlight connector, or something is causing the conduit inside the headlight to shatter, if you take the car to work every day do you go over a big bump at all? also what brand are you using and what does Hyundai recommend using, the wrong headlight bulb can also make this happen - just because it fits doesn't mean its right.

headlight switch or high beam switch if you have one

You say the fuel pump is good. Do you have normal fuel pressure at the injectors ? Will it try to start on ether or carb cleaner ? Normal compression on all cylinders ?

You're absolutely sure there's no spark at the plugs? Depending on the particular model you will have something like these (general images.. not exact for your car): The distributor. It provides the power to each spark plug in turn A Single ignition pack (or 'coil') The single ignition pack boosts the 12 volt battery supply to thousands of volts to each spark plug. With this type of ignition pack/unit there is only ONE one the vehicle. Ignition pack This type of ignition pack acts as a coil and there is one for each spark plug. It sits on top of each spark plug. It's highly unlikely that all individual ignition packs (if your car has them..) have failed at the same time. It's more than likely that a single ignition pack or distributor has failed. No spark .. Some sound advice is to NOT just fit replacement units in the hope that it fixes the problem. You're quite likely to waste a lot of time and money.. Unless you really know what you're doing, give a mobile mechanic a call. They're usually very good and not as expensive as a workshop call-out.

This is a common problem when filling up especially with the smaller nozzles on modern pumps. You could try pulling the pump out slightly say a third as this often works, also tipping the nozzle can help. The system will stop pumping if it senses back pressure through overfill. I hope this will help you to solve the problem.

Hard to say with the electronics on vehicles ,even your older Hyundai . I had a 1995 Buick century in the shop that died when put into gear , Sat an idled fine in park . Hooked it up to the shop scan tool , no codes , looked at engine sensor data parameters . Crankshaft position sensor was the culprit ! That doesn't mean that is what your problem is . I know that Hyundai had crankshaft position sensor problems > Your best bet is to take it to a ASE certified repair shop that has the proper electronic test equipment !

bad break light switch or short around, Short to positive wire to main relays.

check that the timing belt is not broken It would have been the first thing a good mechanic would have done the second thing would have been to run the fault codes to get the fix right.

If you owned a Ford or Mazda Product ? It has is well known for 30 years, that those are the ONLY ones with that Relays as you put it--- are not reset Need to do some vehicle studying