Question edited for clarity and add maker.
Question moved to model category.
There are many fuses and modules covering lighting. The likely reason is corrosion, but you can check fuses very quickly using a multimeter's probes by touching the bare visible contacts on the top of the fuse. There is no need to remove them. Set the multimeter to Ohms / Continuity.
Being in the mood to run makes a lot of sense - check out the movie Kelly's Heroes to learn what effect negative thoughts can have on mechanical gear...
There will be a pattern to what is happening, unfortunately such a pattern tends only to become obvious when the fault is found (often by accident). Something could be affected by temperature and/or humidity, for instance...
OBD diagnostic equipment should be able to tell you what is happening in real time (live data), though only within the bounds of what affects the exhaust emissions.
Continuous testing could be the way to success. A fuel pressure gauge can be "permanently" connected and continuously monitored while driving. Some electronic fuel pump relays behave intermittently during an extended period until complete failure.
(If a hall effect device is incorporated in the engine management, it is worth knowing these also can behave intermittently).
Temporary tell-tale lights can be installed allowing important power supplies to the management/injection/ignition to be continuously monitored...
Good luck!
Now that you've spent way more on parts than a shop diagnostic would have cost, maybe you should either get it professionally diagnosed or attempt to fix the real problem the the trouble code indicated. --system too rich. You thought the O2 sensors were lying. But from your symptoms, my bet is they were perfectly fine and you really do have a rich issue. Click on the link below and scroll down to troubleshooting a rich O2 sensor code
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/test-and-replace-an-o2-sensor/
Doesn't have a turn signal flasher , use's lighting control module .
Turn Signal and Hazard Lamps
The turn signal system consists of:
turn signal miniature bulbs (13465).
turn signal indicators in the instrument cluster (10849).
lighting control module.
multi-function switch (13K359).
circuit wiring and circuit protection.
Power is supplied to the lighting control module through instrument panel Fuse 6 (10A). This fuse is hot in START or RUN. The lighting control module is connected to the turn signal switch portion of the multi-function switch. Ground is provided to the lighting control module and the turn signal miniature bulbs through Circuit 57 (BK).
Turn signal functions are performed by double filament bulbs in lamp assemblies located next to the headlamps. The turn/hazard function uses the second filament of the appropriate bulb(s).
With the multi-function switch in the right turn position, power is supplied to the RH front and rear turn signal miniature bulbs and the right turn indicator in the instrument cluster.
With the multi-function switch in the left turn position, power is supplied to the LH front and rear turn signal miniature bulbs and the left turn indicator in the instrument cluster.
you have 2 screws on the regulator you take them out and remove rest of glass and put new glass in and screw it back togeather you have to see the holes in the c glass of the new
My info showed coil on plug ignition. You have eight spark plugs and 8 coils, correct? Did you visually check for spark at the plugs? As you can see in diagram, the top wires are voltage, the bottom wires are ground.
possible , but I suggest running the fault codes first as the problem could be a crank/cam position sensor, immobilizer or ignition control module or fuse
Your guessing an want to replace parts that you have no idea if it will fix your problem . There is no
coolant switch , There is a coolant temp. sensor that is a input to the PCM - engine computer . When the PCM see's the temp is over 212 degrees it energizes the low speed cooling fan relay ,when it gets to over 233 degrees it will energize the hi speed cooling relay . Rather then replacing parts , leaning how to read wiring diagrams an using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an test the electrical circuits ...
Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .
Sometimes you can use digital multimeter to check for ignition mis-fire.
With engine idling, touch spark plug wires, where applicable, one at a time and note the reading. You don't take the spark plug wire loose and you don't penetrate the insulation, just touch it. Some of the readings I've seen around .6 or .7 volts, not even a full volt. If you find one or two that are bouncing off zero, then you backtrack those. It's an inductive reading or whatever you want to call it.
Hopefully the misfire code will tell you which cylinder, then you check fuel--spark--compression on that cylinder. If p0300 mis-fire code, multiple cylinder misfires and the system can't determine which cylinder.
You might have a vacuum leak?
The basic for a rough idle, you check for a leak of some kind, fuel--egr--vacuum.
turn on head lights have some one try and start car if the lights do not go dim then the starter is not drawing any power take starter out replace or rebuild can take starer out and hook to the battery its a 98 should have put 3 or 4 starter in by now I have
Service engine soon has nothing to do with service or maintenance . Emission's OBD 2 engine managment system . Light on ! DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored . Your don't know THAT ! Your best bet , take it to the dealer .
6 or 8 cylinder ? Do you know how to test for B+ voltage with a test light or a volt meter ? Look at a wiring diagram so you know which wires should have B+ voltage . You can find free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on ignition . Click the search button then the blue link . Looking at a wiring diagram i see this vehicle should have (COP) coil on plug ignition . That means it has a coil for every cylinder an not coil pack .
Autolite Coil on Plug Ignition troubleshooting
The movement is caused by a loose suspension. Deflated parts will not control body roll and without cushion suspension parts can be bent.
Having to replace only a defective broken part is cheaper than guessing. The air suspension has a diagnostic feature which can pinpoint bad components. A high end diagnostic scanner can hook up to the suspension and tell you what needs replacing.
If only a component needs replacing the cost can be low. Even the air bags can be patched or some will interface with cheaper Ford air suspension. But if things are too expensive some people replace the suspension with regular coil springs. You lose a lot, load leveling and superior ride.
You might Websearch for videos about these repairs.