The shifter pawl on the trans maybe stuck in between gears from a broken spring? On it but try to remove the neutral safety switch to see if that is frozen it could've become broken and jammed from force applied trying to get the shifter to work and the shift lever will not move also disconnect the linkage and try to shift it from the trans with the neutral safety switch out and try to move the shifter cable it could be frozen or if any work was done the cable could be crimped inside the sheath causing it to not travel freely if it's frozen use a torch on the metal wire part only and gradually heat it and try to move it you must understand that I'm not there so you have to investigate the possibility of all described here yourself to get to the problem I don't think it's internal failure from your description so external investigation will be a big help especially if you have driven in deep snow or a lot of slush good luck stephen
When my cars have loose timing belts that usually means the belt has stretched or tensioner may be bad. If the belt was loose it may be a tooth or two off, could be the tensioner. I bought a car once which the people said it had lost power ever sense the timing belt was changed. The shop wanted to charge them another 700 dollars to go back and check. I bought for 800 dollars and found it was 1 tooth off. Ran great after that. Just my thought.
Power flows from the battery to the main fuse. Then it flows to the control coil and contact side of the headlight relay. When you turn on the headlights, the headlight switch provides ground to the control coil in the headlight relay and that operates the contacts. The contacts allow power to flow to the right and left hand headlight fuses. Power flows to the headlights. The headlight switch is what provides ground to the high and low beams on the headlights.
To diagnose, remove the headlight relay. Using a voltmeter, check for battery voltage on terminals 3 & 4 in the socket with the key in the RUN position. Then turn on the low beams. Test for good ground on terminal 1 in the socket. If you're not getting ground, then you've got a problem with either a bad headlight combo switch or a bad ground. If you get good ground on terminal 1, reinstall the relay, turn on the low beams and test for power in the headlight sockets. If you get battery voltage, that confirms you've got good fuses and wiring up to that point. Next, check for good low beam ground on the red/green wire in the bulb socket. If you're not getting good ground, it's either a bad combo switch or bad ground from the combo switch. Then turn on the high beams and check for good ground on the red/yellow wire in the bulb sockets.
It wouldn't hurt to clean the ID ground on the left side of the instrument panel, but based on everything you've said so far, this sounds like a bad combo switch
Could be a problem with your ignition system. So you would not be getting spark at the spark plugs. How-to videos everywhere on how to test for spark. If you have no spark at any of the cylinders, then suspect the "ignitor". This little module is what controls the ignition coil on the car, giving you a spark to a spark plug at the right time. Could be something else, too, like the coil, but you could have the ignitor tested for free at any parts store. (On American cars, this module is known as the Ignition Control Module, or ICM.)
There is probably a constant wire for possibly a stereo, amp that is connected in straight off the battery. If not, look at your fuse box to see if there are any wires jumping across from one fuse to an other fuses.
inding Automobile Repair Manuals Online
Example Questions that can be answered by this FAQ:
Is there a repair manual for my 1983 Toyota Tercel online?
Can you find me an electrical schematic or diagram for my truck on the Internet?
Many of our patrons are interested in saving money by repairing their cars themselves. They know from experience that repair manuals and diagrams can make their work a lot easier. When their local library doesn't have the manual they need, they decide to see if they can save a little more money by finding a free copy of the manual or diagram on the Internet.
Unfortunately, these materials are almost NEVER available on the Internet for free! The reason for this is that the people who publish the manuals and own the copyright aren't about to give the material away free--they want to get paid for their work!! Also, many of the manuals are so large, it would be very costly to place them online and store all the Web pages or provide access to them from a database.
The Internet, though, has a large number of web sites where you can buy service manuals and schematics from bookstores, publishers, and other collectors. Here is just a sampling of what sites are out there:
Chilton Repair Manuals (http://www.chilton.cengage.com/)
Factory Automanuals (http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/)
Haynes Publishing (http://www.haynes.co.uk/)
Vintage Books (http://www.vintage-books.com/?page=shop/disp&pid=page_manual&CLSN_2361=13112807922361468d243ba5926542d9)
AutoLit.com (http://www.autolit.com/home.htm)
RepairManual.com (http://www.repairmanual.com/)
You may also want to check out Yahoo's category for Automotive Booksellers, or more general on-line bookstores such as Amazon.com.
Don't forget that public libraries are also great places to find such manuals -- many libraries have them in print or on cd-roms. They may also be able to get the manual or diagram you need from another library if you use their Interlibrary Loan Service. Not every library offers this service, but it never hurts to ask if they do!
Finally, there are many web sites out there where you can at least ask an automobile expert for advice. AutoGuide.net's Automotive Advice category is a good starting point for finding these services.
forget the wreckers for ac parts
once a system is opened the air starts corrosion in the evaporator, condenser and compressor
if you can get an intact system that is still gassed then that would be no problem because the openings could be blanked off thereby preventing prolonged access from the atmosphere
To get a satisfactory job I suggest that you have an ac specialist shop fit it
before you waste money on second hand , ask around ac shops for a new system fitted then compare that price to a second hand system and the cost to have it fitted , evacuated and gassed
new will have a warranty period of up to 5 years while second hand will have a warranty period until you get it of the premises