2005 Toyota Tacoma - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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there is a good chance that the wire for the sensor has an internal break, this can happen if the axle drops down or the brake calipers falls down. Replacing the wire from the sensor to where it connects to the harness should fix this.

When you put the vehicle in drive with your foot on the brake, and you hear a clunk. You may have a bad CV joint or axle. If not it may be a bad wheel bearing. Those would be the first two I'd Check. Outside of that sometimes poor wheel balancing or a tire belt separation. Either way it should be looked at before you hit 75+ mph. I had a Honda that I had just got off the highway with my wife and 3 month old daughter in the car. On a side street pulling away from a stop sign. The right CV shaft let go and dropped the wheel on the ground. There wasn't as much as a shimmy or a groan prior to that. If we had stayed on the highway another five minutes, I can only imagine. Please check it out for your own safety.

Guys replacing the alternator may have knocked a vacuum line loose. Look around the alternator and intake manifold for a loose vacuum line. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Standard is bleeding from the furthest wheel to the master cylinder. So, you first do the right rear wheel, then you do the driver side rear wheel, then move to the front passenger wheel and finally you do the front driver side.

The most common area of refridgrent leaks is the front seal of the AC compressor, the evaporator is the least likely.

Check battery.

Could be a bad brake switch, but not sure since you say brake lights are working. Others reported a blown tail light fuse bit again, since you say your lights work then it may not be the case. I would start by inspecting every fuse. Shouldn't take too long. Then check the brake pedal arm to see the switch. Maybe there is more than one? Or, if the gear selector lock rus off the same 12v as your brake lights, maybe there is a broken wire or the solenoid that locks it is bad.

Take it to sears auto or a good alignment shop and let them check it out. Pitman arm or end links may be going bad.

If engine was just rebuilt and you have low compression on one side either the job was botched or perhaps the plugs are not in all the way and are not tight resulting in compression loss. If they are in properly you have a valid complaint against those folks that worked on your engine. Could also be valves that are not seating properly or bad piston rings.

Have you adjusted valves? Tested for spark? Did old engine go bad due to weak spark or low fuel pressure? Start by running basic tests=fuel pressure at key on, spark at plugs, correct timing.

Turn signal switch died.

U a testlite to chec fuse...just cause they look gud dont work. Cud also b a switch..wiring or relay

Parts swapping by code definition is reasonably good gambling, but it is in fact gambling. Your code was for bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit stays HIGH. That means there is a short to voltage or low resistance in the load side. (The sensor itself). If you changed the sensor with a NEW AND CORRECT PART...that is key BTW, there are a few different sensors in the world that share plug shapes and have different values. But that aside, you need to test the power input to the heater and see what its doing and then the PCM ground and see what ITS doing. The code can be set if there is power when there shouldnt be, or if the ground side cannot pull the circuit to ground...which is either a failed load (low resistance/uncontrolled amperage exceeding the capability of the driver) OR the driver itself has melted (seen it a few tymes) or a 12v wire has rubbed through and is shorting to the heater ground and holding it high. This is what a technician will check next.

go to an auto parts store and they can look it up and sell you one that is for your car.

fuses , check fuses

if your vehicle gets hot when the fan is off,then there is a problem,if it doesnt get hot,then find something else to worry about

this is easy, 'an ECU pro, (custom) retired. uSA car, assume1 has OBD2 PCM, see above. the first error is not checking spark at every spark plug, no engine stated but its I4, sure. it has 4 cops with DIS igntion system great hint there.!!!! if one cop dead, one cop bad if all 4 dead, the PCM has CMP/CKP errors (sensors) so you failed to spend cash on a real scan tool, not 4 useless cops. then youd done this, (posted 100 times, )

1. check all fuses first with voltmeter (sans fsm schematic, sad to do all)
2. keyon, CEL lamp most glow ! if not fuses blown.
3. connect OBD2 scan tool, if comm fail no, the fuse on pin 16 of DLC is blown , fix fuse, yes, scan tool now works ! talks.
4. i crank for 5 seconds,
5. i release key, not off, BINGO DTCS for sensors dead,
6. works on all cars 1987 to now,, all ecus will tell you this. just LOOK in fact they all report 1 pulse in 10 missing, (FSM words)

scan tools work they can be barrow, bought, rented, ) A DEAD car needs a tool that is if you dont wont to go broke guessing what input to ecu is dead,(CKP./CMP) fails cold, so my guess is you missed one sensor now wild guess2, sure im blind and blind messup 90% say all cop coils do spark , testing errors. say you check spark timing on #1 its way off, the cam has slipped, i can say what, no engine stated and compression is 1/2 normal, that be first on older cars, if sparks good, and compresion good, try test fuel cold run now? if spark is good and timing good, use wide open throttle to clear flooding on all cars. it cuts fuel. if id dont clean spark must be bad, takes spark on all 4 not just one, so.... not stated. you need to do tests, and stop guessing at parts if you put in just 1 bad part, now you have horrid,double failure. for sure, do that tests and STOP guessing.and win.

start with the little wires going to each wheel, it should be the only wire of any kind anywhere near the where the wheel is installed, usually those wires are the first to break due to the wheel moving up and down a lot from bumps and turns.

HUH?