1983 Toyota Pickup - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I've had the same problem with my 22r.
I just put silicone gasket ( the stuff you get in the tube for automotive) on top of the o-ring.
It added an extra seal plus also hold the o-ring in place when putting the oil pump back on.
Never had a problem with the oil pump after that.

Double check all your grounds, it's funny what a bad ground can do.

You would need to study the wiring diagram to answer your final question. The temp sensor of a basic pre-computerised temp gauge mostly just has a single wire and when a gauge doesn't work it can be tested by grounding that wire which then should result in a full scale reading from the gauge. If it doesn't the supply, gauge or wiring is at fault. If there is a full scale indication the sensor could be faulty or perhaps the engine is too cool. When electronic engine management came along the temp gauge was increasingly driven by the computer from the main sensor and the single wire type was deleted.

Look to see if there are any fuse links in the system. A poor connection in the harness can cause the problem.

I don't think the igniter is the problem, it could be a bad pickup coil in the distributor, it sends an rpm signal to the computer, if this signal is lost it won't start. Did you check for diagnostic codes using a jumper wire in the check connector? Are there any diagnostic codes? Is this carbureted or EFI?

if it worked good before the clutch kit was installed , but not after then the clutch installation is incorrect probably find the the clutch plate has been installed incorrectly with a correctly fitted clutch kit , there is no necessity to change pedal height or anything else

You are going to need to have the transmission rebuilt.

Toyota Pickup fuel line diagram Questions & Answers - Fixya

www.fixya.com > ... > Tags > fuel line diagram > Cars & Trucks > Toyota fuel line diagram i need to know how to hook up fuel lines to fuel pump on a 1988toyota pickup try an autozone or a dealership they can print out the diagrams .

Needs a Good tune up, check plugs, fuel filter, etc... if it's just a hard start yet vehicle runs, it just needs some maintenance

Simply press your left foot on the clutch pedal, and move the stick shift to the desired gear. When doing so, please go off the gas pedal with your right foot.

Sounds like the cylinder head gasket could be blown. Does it sound funny when your trying to start or crank the engine?

if too rich adjust choke leaner if too lean, adjust choke righer. from 1920 to about 1988 , usa, 70 years we did this. no more. well we do, but most dont now. i still have 1 twin carb motor cycle and one single carb VW 1968. both restored. also the chock heater must work and the choke spring not old. the old bi-metal spring that is old become lazy,/crazy. kick it to the curb for best experiences. if water heated choke the water actually must flow here. if not, it will fail. there are 3 common types. electric, needs 12v. water, needs 180F hot water actual flow. and exhaust choke stove heater. (a small horror this, dont ask) there are others, but would need carb name and p/n

buy a carb rebuild kit (wow old car a near record here....) or convert auto choke to manual, done every carb car i owned. i hate auto chokes, all of them , water, stove, or electric, hate. on hot days, no choke, , no flooding. no washing oil off rings either. you learn quick just how much chock is best . finding carb kits are a bit hard , here is uSA. google for one, or ok rock has it http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1277197&parttype=6004 and the full rebuild ket too. seems it the electric type. replace it and set it like the FSM states. varies by climate and altitude (higher is less chock set)

in the fuse box. one of the 2.

in the fuse box at ankle. login to alldata.com and read.

and old carb based engine if engine has good compression, and spark is good and timed. its a bad carb. carbs: 1:float level good? 2; jets clean 3:all air emulsion tubes inside clear.? 4: choke set right.?

Probably the timing chain has jumped a cog. Aim a timing light at the timing mark and ensure that it stays in one place when idling. If it jumps around erratically the timing chain has jumped. If not that it could be the fuel filter, plugs and or wires, etc.

I would check the old slave cylinder against the new, check they are both the same size and that the new one isn't shorter, failing that it would mean taking the box out again and checking the old units against the new, ie height of pressure plates, depth of release bearing etc. Regards Mike

Hi, try to clean your Idle control valve, maf sensor, fuel filter and most important1 clean throtle body, try that to start, c how you go.

hey not sure ther but just to try help u there wat abt fuel filter' cos u havnt sad abt it, depends if it the metal1 than it high preshia 1, and if it clogged, bingo there s yr problem, if it plastic, still worth checkimg it out. now wat i was gona sugest, cos had simular situations b4. it may completly be a totaly difernt frm fuel delivery as such. if it hapens very regular, just try 2 c when and after what it hapens even 4example it hapens after the rain, or if u fill up at same place or difrn evry time. staff like,just jote it down and u can ping point it, You c wher Iam coming from? Hope it helps, G/luck wi that.