I have an 87 toyota pick up, no spark. I changed the pick up coil, checked for power to coil, good power, been told that it is the ignighter,problem is they want $450 for new one.having hard time finding used one. what I want to know, is there a way to test so I don't spend a fortune and it not work? thank you. chad
To check the Coil, pull the HT lead that comes from the coil to the dissy cap out of the dissy cap and hold close to the engine and with the ignition switch turned on earth the negative side of the coil. If there is no spark then the coil is the likely problem. If there is spark then check that the ignitor is recieving the signal from the pick-up (use an LED tester at the ignitor plug) the tester should blink as you crank the engine over. If the tester doesn't blink then check the output of the pick-up at the plug on the side of the dissy, if still no blink then check the pick-up clearance. If it blinks at the dissy and not at the ignitor the check the wires/plugs for breaks. If it blinks at the ignitor and there is still no spark then the ignitor is the likely fault.
Posted on Jun 29, 2008
I recently moved to Colorado and my 87 toyota pu with 22r (carb) is back firering and bogging, i think do to the alttitude. Is there a simple adjustment i can do fix this?
Yes, Colorado is much higher in altitude. Do to higher altitude the barometric pressure is less than sea level by a long shot. Lower barometric pressure mean that less air is entering your engine. Which in turns mean that your engine is now running richer than it was at a a lower altitude. So I recommend checking you engine timing, and adjusting your carbs air/fuel mixture. yes this means that you may need to rejet. but first there is a screw on your 22r's carb that you must adjust to lean the air mixture just right. I have had a stock 22r carbortor before and never had to rejet it. i probibly should have but it ran fine at sea level and all the way to about 10000 ft. after 10000 feet i had to lean the fuel mixture to even alow the engine to run. This screw that you must turn is hidden due to toyota not wanting you to tamper with it and burn your engine to the ground by running your engine to lean. it has a metal plug on the passenger side of the carb about the size of a pencil eraser. you must drill that out and then you can adjust the air fuel mixture. Clock wise is to lean the air fuel. and Counter clock wise is to richen the air fuel mixture.A good rule of thumb is to turn the air/fuel screw all the way clock wise and then back out about 2 and 1/2 turns. That is the factory adjustment. you may only need 2 turns out. Best of luck i hope you get it running perfect. Try this adjustment first then if it still runs rich then think about rejetting.
Here is a picture of what i am talking about.
#1 is the air/fuel mixture, #2 and #3 are cold and warm idle screws.
#4 is a A/c idle adjustment.
Posted on May 06, 2009
My 87 Toyota P/U (22r) has been acting up lately. It had a very high idle and the mechanic lowered it down but now the automatic choke will not close all the way when the pedal is depressed. The mechanic has no clue as to why the choke will not close fully. It use to start up fine until he messed with something and now he cannot figure it out. Is there something he is missing? I need help bad so my truck will start up good again.
I'm not exactly sure about the 1987 toyota choke, but the basic concept of a choke is that the butterfly(flap in top of the carburetor) needs to close to allow less air and more fuel to enter the intake when the engine is cold. This is acomplished on most carburetors with an electric choke thermostat. The thermostat has a bimetallic spring that is would up and connected to the butterfly through a rod. The bimetallic spring is made of a special allow that expands and contracts as the temperature changes. Usually through a relay of some sort 12v or less is applied to the choke thermostat with the engine running and used to heat the spring therefor releasing tension on the closed butterfly. It sounds like your butterfly is never opening as the engine is warming up, and staying on fast idle. See if there is a wire on the thermostat and remove it and check it with a voltmeter with the car running, there should be >8vDc. If there's voltage then the thermostat is probably faulty(as long as the linkage is ok) If there is no voltage, check the fuses and fuse links and then consult a schematic to see where the voltage is suppiled from/to, could be a faulty relay as well.
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
I have a 1987 toyota pickup (it's actually a motorhome-87 toyota pickup truck with the motorhome built on).
It's an automatic transmission (4 gears) and there is an overdrive button on the end of the gear shifter. I've had the vehicle for several years and the way it's always worked is that in order to shift to fourth gear you have to press on the overdrive button and then immediately release the button back to off, then the vehicle would shift into fourth. Now about a year ago I had to have the transmission rebuilt which was done by AAMCO. Even with the new transmission it was the same, you'd have to engage and disengage the overdrive button to shift to fourth. I asked the guy at AAMCO what's up with that and he said that's the way it's supposed to be. I wasn't so sure about this and was expecting that with the rebuilt tranny it would have shifted into 4th without the overdrive button. Anyhow that's the way it stayed.
So recently what happened on a highway trip, the vehicle was running normal shifting into fourth gear for the first few hours. I think I had stopped for gas and then as I proceeded this time as I was accelerating and had pressed the overdrive button something strange happened. It seemed that the vehicle downshifted for the split moment I had pressed on the overdrive button, it was like the engine was winding high, and as I disengaged the button the vehicle went back to the same 3rd gear but did not shift into 4th gear. So for the rest of the trip I could not shift into 4th gear and could not drive any faster than 60 mph. During the trip when rain came I discovered that the windshield wipers did not work. I stopped and checked the fuses and found one was burned. I replaced the fuse and the wipers worked again. So then I tried again to see if I could shift into 4th. I pressed and depressed the overdrive button but nothing happened at all, the vehicle just stayed in 3rd gear, and again the wipers stopped working. When I checked later I again found the same fuse was blown. So basically that's what's happening, I cannot shift into 4th gear and the overdrive button is blowing a fuse when it's engaged. There is a little light that goes on when the overdrive button is engaged - that is working. But evidently there is some electrical problem with the overdrive switch which seems to be connected to the same fuse which operates the windshield wipers.
Anyone have any idea exactly what the problem could be and how to fix it ? Thank you.
NO way to tell exactly what the cause is from the ad. But the most obvious choice is you have a problem with the steering column, more then likely a short within the column. The reason the wiper fuse is blowing while doing this is they both are very close in proximity inside the column and may be crossed/touching inside. The pressing on/off of the OD button is engages the OD relay which tells the tranny to shift/not shift to OD. You can start by removing the column if you think its something you can tackle or look in to replacing the column ($75-$100 for a used one). Would be cheaper then paying a shop to just pull it off and try and fix the problem.
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
87 toyota pickup 4x4 22ret i have no injector pulse i have all data on my computer but the diagnostic tree is not there for that vehicle and the wiring diagram is insufficiant also has a trouble code 11 in the truck all data says tps sensor but also nas no tree for that code help please also the injector wires have 12 volts on both sides i,m sure i have an open wire or bad ground need to trace the wires also be helpfull if i knew the wire colors of everything invovled fuel pump is working i have spark just no pulse
OK, the computer grounds one of the curciuts on each injector to pulse it.
Interesting information from alldata, the autodata and mitchell and Bosch AFC all show a code 11 as being ECM (B+) that I have, which could be the EFI main relay, fuse, fuse link or wiring (usually one of the wires on the battery terminal have broken off or corroded and lost connection)
Here is the diagram I have for Bosch AFC on Toyota PU, I'm not sue it will be readable compressed for upload but here you are
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
where is the fuse box located?
there are 2 fuse centers, one is under the hood on the passenger side and the other is under the dash on the drivers side
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
vacuum diagram for 1987 toyota pick up
Fig. 11: Emission system component layout and vacuum
diagram-1987 22R-E engine
Fig. 12: Emission system component layout and vacuum
diagram-1987 22R-TE engine
Fig. 13: Emission system component layout and vacuum
diagram-1987 22R engine (Federal and Canada)
Fig. 14: Emission system component layout and vacuum
diagram-1987 22R engine (California)
Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
where is the a/c fuse on an 87 toyota truck? it isn't on the interior fuse box by driver floorboard, or the one in the engine compartment. Is there another one inside perhaps?
When I got my truck new in 1987, the AC was dealer added. If there is no obvious fuse location, I would either start with the ac compressor clutich wires or the AC power switch and follow the wires and see if they lead you to a fuse. I know the switch operatates a relay and there are high and low presure switches for the AC system that power us run through for the clutch relay. I am affrad I don't have my old truck to look at anymore, but I was thinking yours might have been a dealer added unit as well and the fuses were inline and tapped off of existing power wires.
Hope this helps
Todd
Posted on Jan 16, 2011
what kind of fluid should go in my 87 toyota clutch?
If you are refering to the clutch master cylinder than it takes regular old DOT 3 brake fluid.
Posted on Aug 13, 2011
vacuum diagram for a 1985 toyota pick up
Here's a link to your vacuum diagram. SAVE 20 ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE
Posted on Jul 07, 2015
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