Top 20 1990 Toyota 4Runner Questions & Answers

Is the proper radiator cap fitted

hello, first you need to make sure the engine gets to operating temperature, maybe the thermostat needs to be replaced, if after that it still has the same problem the temp sender could be the issue here. It is located on a housing in between the cylinder heads near the firewall where the heater hose connects. there are two temp sensors, one for the gauge on the dash and one for the computer. The dash sensor has a single wire, the computer temp sensor has a connector with two wires and is a green connector.

sounds like the fuel pump is not getting fuel to the injectors - check the fuel filter and if that is not plugged up, then check the fuel manifold pressure - if it's about 10psi or more (when the ignition switch is on) then it's probably not the fuel system. it the ignition system okay (sparks to the plugs?) you could have a burned out coil or spark plug wires - or spark plugs - but since it was running, I'd check the fuel system first

Make sure you check the 3" intake hose from the air box to the intake manifold. May be cracked.

check cylinder brake

The temp sensor could be the problem, try replacing it at the back of the engine inbetween the two cylinder heads, there is a housing with a few sensors on it, replace the one with the green connector and two wires on it.

there is a problem in the charge circuit and it indicates a short in the system could be in the alternator or voltage regulator or if the voltage regulator is in the ECM , the ECM itself If the alternator was not removed and bench tested , any wire problems would be revealed and the unit not properly tested check for bad ground wire from the battery to the engine

very possible front drive shaft is the most likely as it does little work and the grease tends to dry out promoting wear check all slip joints on both drive shafts as well as "u" joints check engine mounts and front diff mounts as if they are broken , that will allow misalignment of the shaft angles

Reset and drive ,check again.

MASTER CYLINDER GOT MUCK IN IT

Check your wiring to and around the dist. for burning and failures.

Spray some either into the intake while someone is cranking the engine. If it starts temporary and then quits, it is definitely a fuel problem. Check your fuel pump.

Close to thermostat.

Should be on the shifter or the shifter console

new engine or starter motor???? stalls. which engine, exactly all engines have unquick fueling and spark and lots more. which one? of the 8. (even gas and diesel) 2.0 L 3Y I4 2.2 L 4Y I4 2.4 L 22R-E I4 3.0 L 3VZ-E V6 2.4 L 2L-TE turbodiesel I4 2.4 L 2L-TII turbodiesel I4 2.8 L 3L diesel I4 3.0 L 1KZ-T/TE turbodiesel I4 ......................?

Check Tailgate to Body Contacts--Likely dirty or position problem. On models without Contact Assembly, wires broken in flex tube ( not easy to spot.)

Yes Honda dealer for BG products Use one can of MOA in it.

Why would you remove the battery cable when it is running? Current has to get back to the battery on the ground side You took that away & it stopped Certainly was not a test for anything If the battery has been sitting for several hours & it reads above 12.7 the battery has failed 11.3 with a heavy load -- I guess is the question That may be normal for your vehicle Only way to resolve any vehicle problem is by component testing

I hope you are only doing this temporarily. Generally speaking, ignition 1&2 would become powered when key is turned to on position. These could be wired to toggle switches. Highly recommend a high amperage momentary contact switch only for the starter lead. Best advice is the get a new ignition switch rather than mess with wiring. Doing so could do un repairable damage to your ignition system, wiring harness, and computer

shifter cable