20 Most Recent 1991 Toyota MR2 Questions & Answers

The antenna mast is extended and retracted with a flexible strip of plastic cable with teeth. The antenna motor turns a gear which drives the cable in (mast down) or out (mast up). These cables do break. You can buy a whole new power antenna assembly or just the plastic cable. Replacing the cable isn't hard, just tricky-- getting the cable to coil up properly inside the antenna assembly can be a pain. You probably can grab the antenna and extend it manually, but you may not be able to push it back in.

Bad alternator or voltage regulator, broken alternator belt if any, loose battery cable ...

hopefully this forum will answer your question. seems 2 under hood and 1 inside. https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=69257

I don't know for sure, but it sounds like at least one side of the window has come loose from the mechanism that raises and lowers it. Some cars have two plastic rivets or pins to connect the window to the mechanism. If one comes loose or breaks the window will behave as you described when you try to raise and lower it. If you want to fix it yourself you'll need to remove the armrest and inside door cover in order to see and access the window and raise/lower mechanism. Look for broken or loose pieces in the bottom of the door cavity. Hopefully you can see what's wrong and get replacement parts from the dealer.

The EFI fuse is for fuel components, and for powering up the ecu. There is a lot on that circuitry. The 15 amp fuse, is also the power for the EFI relay. If this relay is without the power from that fuse, you probably won't have the fuel pump working, and the ecu won't be fully powered up. Check the fuse again to see if it blew out again. If it did, you will have to trace the circuits for a short. Also, the EFI fuse gets power from the 40 amp AM2 fuse, so if the EFI fuse has power to it, the AM2 fuse is okay. If I were you, I would test and check all fuses in all fuse/relay boxes under the hood. checking fuses is easy with a cheap test light. With the key in ON, every fuse on the car has power to it. So you clip tester light to ground (use neg. batt'y post), and then use test light probe into the little slot on the top end of a fuse. You do not have to take fuse out to visually inspect. On the top end of all fuses are 2 little slots (one at each end of fuse) that is open to the metal strip inside. So you turn key to ON, then probe one end of the fuse. The test light should light up. Even a blown fuse will light up tester on one end of the fuse. Now to test the fuse itself, use the probe and touch into both ends of the fuse. A good fuse will light the tester on both ends of the fuse. A blown fuse will only light up one end of the fuse-the metal strip has blown so no power on both ends of the fuse, SEE? And by using the test light, you also verify that power is getting to the fuse. It is easy, and you are on the way to becoming an automotive electrician. Next, you need to buy and use a multi-meter, for automotive uses buy a digital volt-ohm meter (DVOM), which is what most multi-meters really are. And you don't have to buy an expensive one. I have a Sears Craftsman DVOM, about 20 years old, and it only cost like $30.

nothing wrong that an accredited mechanic can't fix the clutch was installed incorrectly by the " mechanic" and the jib will have to be done again suggest that you find an accredited qualified mechanic to do the job

Plugged up exhaust maybe? Starved for fuel? Maybe slow on timing?

12 is not a fault code it is the code that tells the user the computer is in read mode of computer diagnostic's. so if the only thing it flashes is 12 then you have no fault codes stored.

I see these engine computers fail a lot. Double check all fuses, wiring, powers and grounds. If all looks well, you then want to isolate lack of fuel or lack of spark. Does the vehicle act like it wants to start or just click when you turn it over? Call 800 921 9060 if you need ECU repair or replacement

Your local auto parts store should have a repair manual for your vehicle in stock. Stop in and get to know the people, most are very knowledgable and can be really helpful.

Did you do a coolant flush because it was overheating? Sounds to me like you have a bad thermostat.

It's on the engine block. But why? they rarely fail. Google make model year and engine, you may be able to find a picture and an exact location

The FSM covers that page one, so I know you dont have the book my favorite car btw. so can help. which engine? learn first what is there exactly my guess is it is a 3S-GTE first google hit lands here. (amazing huh) http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/20-mr2-forum/62348-mr2-3s-gte-engine-number.html its below thermostat and if USA car, (you never stated this) a tag btw , did you know that countries dictate the rules for engine numbers. ours does, ours not only have serial number but a year code that other countries dont have. (smog laws here) so why not post your country. and WIN. case in point, usa car with JDM block, bam, different.

Turbo (E153) and Non-Turbo (S54) transmissions have the fill bolt on tranny facing the firewall to the cabin. Youll have to jack the rear of the car up.

Drain bolt is near the the driver side axle input.

It is advised to remove filler bolt before drain bolt in case drain gets stripped etc.

Use a longer hose with funnel from the top to fill

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