When I turn on the car the high beam indicator blinks. When I turn on my headlights it stops. Then when I turn off the car my running lights stay on and the bell in the car continues saying your lights are on stays on as well.
My lights have had this problem for months. From time to time I try to fix it, but I have learned the following:
1. [EASY SOLUTION] After turning off the car and turning off the
headlights, when I pull the headlight switch back (toward me) and then
let go, the running lights turn off. [/EASY]
Extra information that I haven't figured out how to use yet:
2. Apparently the DRL bulbs operate through the high-beam bulbs; this
is why you get the high-beam light when the DRLs are broken (or
whatever) and why you can turn them off with the high-beam switch.
3. My wife took the car out for a fluid change once and said the
mechanic pointed at a light on the car and said, "that bulb's out," and
that if she fixed it the DRL's would work normally, but she forgot
which light it was. He even told her what bulb it needed. I took it
to the same place and no one knew what I was talking about.
I don't think about trying to fix this very often since I realized I
could turn the lights off with the high-beam switch. I used to worry
that that blinker was somehow draining the battery, but it never has
(whereas I once drained a brand new battery just by leaving the
interior light on all night). I hope I've helped!
-Monteith
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
Erik,
I have to say, you sound like one of the honest mechanics out there and I have a question. I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla with 143,000 miles on it and I have a problem with this stupid P0420 code and I am ready to dig a hole and drive the car in!! This code started last year. I brought it to a shop and I had the code diagnosed and was told it was the converter. I had my boyfriend change the converter since it was a hell of a lot cheaper than the shop. It fixed the problem for the emissions test and eureka, the light came back on about 3 months ago. We went ahead and changed out the whole exhaust system under the car (converter, pipes, O2 sensors, muffler) and the code went away. Now the code is back on and we just can't figure it out. The car is running fine and like you stated in the last thread, the code is a f***in pain to look at. Do you have any idea what else it could be? An experts opinion is what I am looking for. Thank you!
well thank you very much you have me blushing : ) i went to school for automotive and after seeing people be taken advantage of till it almost made me sick i chose to take my own business path, I might not be the best mech in the biz, but i would like to think im the most honest, i have trouble charging people ive never met before lol and usually give them 1/2 the price a normal shop would with out marking up my parts 50% like most shops also, once again thank you.to explain what is happening, the heated o2 sensor between the engine takes a waveform (voltage reading to determin the air/fuel mixture) then the mixture travels through the cat and is cleaned and comes out to the 2nd post o2 sensor, the computer checks these to make sure they are different and that the cat is doing its job by changine (cleaning) the exhaust flow. the reason you are having this code thrown is because both sensors are reading the same which means that the converter isnt doing its job. now this means that the cat is bad, the heated #2 o2 sensor is defective, or the #2 o2 sensor circut is open/shorted.Tthe answer to your problem to the best of my knowledge would first make sure that is the only code that your car is throwing (to make sure another problem isnt causing this one) if p0420 is the only code showing you will want to check through the entire exhaust from the engine exhaust housing back to make sure you have no exhaust leaks. you may have a p0130 which is the heated o2 in the front or a p0136 which is a problem with the other o2 post cat. these codes should show, if they dont i would still go over the wiring of the sensors from them to the ecu make sure they are not shorted, if you go to a shop with a scan tool they should be able to check the o2's with it and make sure your fuel trims are where they should be also. if only the p0420 i would guess there is a leak somewhere, all the heat cold heat cold back and forth can loosen bolts and strech metal joints in the exhaust system. if that doesnt help please let me know and i will research it more much harder, but this is what the manual for your car says and what i believe also, please let me know and i'll get back to you right away, also make sure the cat didnt just randomly go bad, but dont let them replace stuff say you want it tested and make sure they have the right tools to do it. take care and thanks very much again. any other problems with anything else send them my way first, take care have a good night
Erik
EZ Automotive/U.S. Army
Posted on Sep 19, 2008
I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla with approximately 130K miles. For some reason the car has started to burn oil rapidly (about 3 quarts a month). The mechanic says that the problem is due to high mileage and I should have the entire engine replaced, which I find hard to believe as I have friends that have Toyotas with 259K plus miles on them and they did not require a new engine. Is this a common problem? Any suggestions? I have regular maintenance performed on the car and any repairs as they come up.
Take your vehicle back to your mechanic, and have him perform a DRY, then a WET compression test. Please provide both readings back to me. In the meantime, ask him what it would cost you to him replace the piston rings. This is your problem. The 2 tests will simply verify me thinking.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
if you have a code p0440,p0441,p0446 on a 2003 toyota corolla what will be the problem.
These codes are all for the Evaporative Emissions System.
P0440- Evaporative emissions system fault- just saying there's something wrong with the system.
P0441- Evaporative emissions system- Incorrect purge flow- saying that the system isn't purging the raw fuel vapors (hydrocarbons- HC) as well as it should.
P0446- Evaporative emissions system- Control valve circuit low- there is a valve, usually located on the charcoal canister at the rear of the vehicle, that opens to allow fresh air to enter the evaporative emissions system as the engine vacuum purges the fuel vapors from the charcoal canister and closes when purge is not needed to prevent leakage of those fuel vapors to the atmosphere (HC is a greenhouse gas and is regulated as such by the fed gov't).
Given that you have the incorrect purge flow code and the control valve code together, my bet is that the vent control valve has failed (causing the P0446) and is not opening to allow fresh air into the system to displace the air from within the system that is being pulled to the engine. Since you have no fresh air entering the system, the engine will pull a vacuum on the system instead of the vapors "flowing" into the engine (causing the P0441).
I hope that this is helpful to you!!!
ASE Master Technician with L1 and X1 Certifications; Nissan Scope Technician; Chrysler Level 3 Silver Technician- 12+ years experience.
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla with a 4ZZ-FE engine (1.4 ltr, VVT). I am wondering if you can tell me which marks on the crank and cam gears I line the yellow marks of the timing chain with. Thanks.
Please buy a cheap shop manual. Get this wrong and you will be very sorry.
Posted on May 19, 2015
My 01 Corolla, with 105k miles, has a pronounced knock and ticking noises from within the engine. The problem started around 90k, when I noticed increased oil consumption. A rattle/pinging (piston slap?) soon developed at approx 95k, only noticeable during acceleration on hills. The noise soon became louder and more noticeable over time, and now the noise can be heard at an idle. A light ticking had started at about the same time, and that noise has become quite pronounced now as well. When I start the engine from a cold start, only the ticking (presumably the valves) noise can be heard. Either upon significant acceleration or after about 2-3 minutes the knocking noise returns. I also noted the knock was more severe and accelerated when rpms are raised. The same is true for the ticking, but obviously not as pronounced of an increase (I assume this is due to the limited increased pressure to the lifters and the fact that overall camshaft speed does not increase as much as the crank/pistons?). Dry compression check is normal (avrg 185 or so), no visible excessive damage to camshafts, sprockets, timing chain, or lifters, although nothing has been miced/measured, and I only removed the timing chain cover and valve cover for inspection. I have a couple questions: My mechanic stopped by to poke around a bit and listen to things (trusted company mechanic), and he noted the timing chain was loose (prior to timing chain cover removal) and thought that was the problem, stating that somethings wrong with the timing assembly. At that point, the chain had less than one full link of visible slack between the camshaft sprockets in certain crank positions while turning the crank by hand. Upon inspection after cover removal, I found no unusual wear to either the guides or guide pivot arm. The tensioner seems to be in working condition (I do not know how to test this), and the chain is in the correct postion with all the slack to the tensioner side of the engine while at TDC. Could the tensioner really be causing the problems, is there a way to test the tensioner, and is the slack that appeared between the camshaft sprockets just due the lack of oil pressure applied to the tensioner (there is a little play on the tensioner when depressed before the plunger reaches the rackets/ribs)?? Secondly, what is the next easiest way to see if the engines truly ready for a complete overhaul if the problems not in the tensioner? I'm thinking: Buy a tensioner only (no timing kit) and install it, reseal the cover, reinstall the motor mount, then dropping the oil pan to check for wear on the crank bearings. Any thoughts for my project?
from what you are describing it sounds like a lifter/valve issue, i am a ford man i don't know if toyota do the same thing, but if they use inserts for the valve seats it is possible a valve seat has been dropping just has not dropped fully out to cause engine damage. buying a new engine will actually cost you less than an overhaul/rebuild anymore. the parts will cost you almost as much as a new motor will with all the machining that maybe needed.
Posted on May 13, 2009
which fuse controls radio, clock, and dome light on a 2001 Toyota Corolla?
Hello! The fuse is located in under-hood box #2...Face the front of the vehicle ...It is on the drivers side fender wall, about mid-engine..It is called the "dome" fuse; 15A
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867
Posted on Feb 17, 2010
Where is the coolant temp sensor on a 2001 toyota corolla se?
Usually near the thermostat housing;
Hope heps.
Posted on Jun 28, 2010
2001 toyota corolla radio fuse location
The fuse you need to replace for your radio to work again is Fuse 15a, located on the left side of the steering wheel. There you will see a storage door, with a 15 a fuse marked cig. Replace it, and your clock and radio will be functional again.
Posted on May 18, 2020
no start code p1300
Error Code: DTC P1300
Description: Igniter Circuit Malfunction
Solution:
To repair the code please do the following:
1. Check spark plugs.
2. Check for open and short in harness and connector in IGF (Ignition Confirmation) signal circuit between ECM and igniter.
3. Disconnect igniter connector and check voltage between terminal IGF of ECM connector and body ground.
4. Check for open and short in harness and connector in IGT1 - 3 signal circuit between ECM and igniter.
5. Check voltage between terminals IGT1 - 3 of ECM connector and body ground.
6. Disconnect igniter connector and check voltage between terminals IGT1 - 3 of ECM connector and body ground.
8. Check for open and short in harness and connector between ignition switch and ignition coil, ignition coil and igniter.
9. Check and replace ignition coils with a good known one.
10. Check and replace ECM with good a known one .
Hope that works.
Thank you for visiting Fixya.
Posted on Apr 06, 2014
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