2006 Toyota 4Runner - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You will find there is no power getting to one indicator bulb. Possibly a bad connection or a broken wire.

https://www.autocodes.com/b1181_toyota.html

What they are talking about is the cables that move the sunroof open and closed, these have plastic pieces that can break so I suspect that this is what the problem is. The reason that it's so expensive is that the headliner has to be removed and then the entire sunroof assembly so it can be taken apart and the cable assemblies that go into the guide rail can be replaced. It seems a little high at the dealer which is understandable, try checking around in your area for someone that can do the labor, the parts are around $400. You should be able to get someone that knows how to do this for around $800 or so labor.

It's probably just in the design between the two year models, check the cabin air filter behind the glove box these sometimes get clogged up and reduce fan air volume.

This code indicates a lean condition on bank one of the engine. Possible dirty/defective MAF sensor/vacuum leak/low fuel pressure on bank one/ defective 02 sensor. The best thing to do would be to monitor live scan data and see what may be causing this issue before tossing unneccessary parts at the vehicle

there has to be a short in the system somewhere - use a tester on all area and see if you can find something

The drivers side seat does not fold forward, it will only go to vertical.

Just curious, does it blow faster at higher rpms and slows with lower rpms? Have battery-- battery cables-- charging system tested. Of course there could be other issues? I'd have to do testing when issue is ongoing, as far as voltage and ground for the blower and the blower motor, itself. Try to be sure what is going on before replacing anything.

switch is probly bad--openit from inside

Here's a link to your torque. Specifications Lug Nut Tightening Torque AutoZone com

What does that mean Reset what Do you have fault codes

well the blower work on HIGH>? if the blower i dead on high , replace the fuse. called blower if the fuse is good, then the blower is bad , the controls to it are bad the FSM covers all the tests. if not DIY person, take it in for service. or look on alldata.com (online, almost FSM)

im going to. i did and xxxxx what? if radio and nav codes are not backed up , they will die, after battery pull. the operator guide warns of this. if driving a A/T slushpump autotranny, it will need driving sessions to learn you car mass and your habits. on some cars, (read the FSM) there needs to be idle recalibration and throttle by wire recalibration, and,, and.... they get richer. depends on engine, and country sold,, my 2008 has 14 on board computers. keeping them all happy is a ROYAL PITA. (even with full FSM in hand all 1700 pages)

ahh, you meant hack? RIGHT.not fix it. let me guess, why must I?lost all keys,or the 1 and only 1 key owned is deadIMMO angry lamp,so then you ask how to hack it not fix it ,right>/?then failed to scan it and see if its:1: communications errors.2: key bad.3: key transponder bad. you, cant. hack it.one guy did, but you dont know how to hackEPROMS do you. I do, but I'm not doing that here.also you can call key shopand some do house calls.and they reprogram the key for you on the spot.Call them and ask,my local shop here in town does.you fix cars i seeall this is just boring OLD HAT to all mechanics.at least in USA, are you?

Troubleshoot by isolating the alternator, then testing for a 13.5 - 16v output (likely to be ~14.5v). Anything out of that range indicates bad alternator or voltage regulator (assumed to be built into the alternator). If voltage is in range, (and following your suspicion of an electrical problem in the Turn Signal circuit), reconnect the alternator and isolate the turn signal circuit by pull the fuses. See if you are getting the good voltage reading of (~14.5v) at the battery. IF IT'S GOOD..check for bad trailing wiring harness (isolate if possible), I've seen bad turn signal bulbs (contacts on bottom of bulb) short out (melt) in their sockets (typically causing a blown fuse..but ya'never know), and lastly you might have to do a hand over hand following the wiring, looking for shorts, melted wire, cuts, broken connections, etc (see Hanes Manual Wiring diagrams for possible points to perform continuity checks). IF IT'S BAD. you must continue to isolate electrical circuits until you find the one that is causing the fault. You can pull one fuse at a time (not reinstalling them) until voltage at the battery returns, or you might try pulling a group of fuses at a time until you can read good voltage at the battery, then replace the fuses one at a time until you find the bad circuit. Once you've isolated the bad circuit, it's either a matter of further isolation until you find the bad component (many circuits supply voltage to multiple components), or checking every connection and component connected in the circuit. Best of luck resolving this problem.

if it is in the dash you will have to remove instrument panel if it is between seats remove screws that hold cover down it may just snap together then look for two wires follow them to your bulb it may twist out or just pull out

Look in the manual ,but a jack ,big screwdriver and whatever socket or allen key to undo the two support fixings ,then a big pair of water pump pliers or a G clamp to finish pushing the pistons in.20 min job (both sides) including a tea break

100 ft lbs

There you go,found the circuitNow you get a wiring diagram & lookat what is in that circuit, that would be themost logical to fail or a relay that fails to go to sleep,etc

Yeah. Pine needles get into the heater box and clog the heater fan motor's "fan". You also may have rodents in there,making nests. The wife was smart to turn off the heater fan B-4 the fuse blew.